|May 26th, 2012, 10:56 AM||#11|
Join Date: Feb 2010
|May 26th, 2012, 04:31 PM||#12|
Join Date: Oct 2008
If you go by the book you should have everything you need. Changing shims adds a few items to the list. For me the LT Snyder manual also came in handy. I did a full valve shim swop recently and here is my list of additional tools and consumables used:
Yamabond 4 liquid gasket - when refitting the head caps
CRC engine assembly lube - to seat the cams
Denatured alcohol - to clean rubber seals and metal mating surfaces
WD40 - general purpose use
Thread lock - where required
Hand cleaner - for when you skip between reading the manual and working on the heads
Blue workshop paper towels - to clean and cover open engine parts including intake ports
Grease - to pick up the closer shim half ring keepers with the o-ring pick (see next) and on bolts and nuts where required
O-ring pick - general purpose tool for when fat fingers can't reach
Curved medical forcepts - to hold valves and picking stuff out of small spaces
Magnet pickup tool - used to remove and place shims, spark plugs, etc
Rubber tubing - to block off oil ports
Cam wheel holding tool and -nut socket - if you decide to remove the cam pulleys to reseat the oil seals
TDC tool - homemade from old spark plug
Degree plate for crankshaft turning tool and piece of wire (secured to a bolt on the engine case to act as needle for the degree wheel) - used in conjunction with the TDC tool
Set of bungee cords - to hold back the rockers
Rubber mallet - to dislodge the camshafts and journals
Digital calipers - you have this already
Shims and closer shim measuring tool - part of the kit when you buy shims from EMS
Drift - to reseat the rubber oil seals
Guitar tuning app for IPhone - to tension the timing belts (I found "Guitar Tuner!" by Peter Deelsta worked good)
Whiteout - to mark the timing belts before removal
400 Grit sandpaper - working on out-of-speck shims
Excel - to note and calculate shim sizes
As you can see there is a lot going on so give yourself plenty of time and recheck your work. Come back if you have questions. There is a lot more to it than what meets the eye.
Last edited by doorsdude; May 26th, 2012 at 04:38 PM.
|May 26th, 2012, 06:03 PM||#15|
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Wilmington, NC
After reviewing that, I guess most of my interest was in cam timing. After it was all said and done, I didn't make any changes. But I was only doing an overkill 7500 mile checkup. If it wasn't for my swollen tank being so hard to get back on, I'd look forward to doing it all again. The tank was such a pain to get back on. Geez.
|June 11th, 2012, 09:37 PM||#16|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: New Brunswick
Just a little update:
Got the bike all torn down without much issue, both belt covers are off, V cylinder sparkplug is out and the cover is pulled revealing the cams. Couldn't pull the H cylinder because i needed a smaller ratchet extension that i didn't have on hand.
Just have one quick question, on the right hand side of the bike where the radiator overflow cap is just below that there is a little hose, looks like a drainage hose of somekind i donno. Anyway i need to remove this so i can move the radiator out of the way. Its on there good with a pressure fitting that i havn't seen before, if i really yank on it and take it off will i be able to get it back on!??!
|June 11th, 2012, 09:41 PM||#17|
Join Date: Feb 2010
DYI 15K service 848
Check on my thread and you'll be able to remove that little clamp by using a pair of pliers to squeeze the ring's head together-then wiggle it out. Hope it helps
|June 12th, 2012, 03:31 AM||#19|
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Shit Happens
The clamp is a simple pinch clamp that you can remove by squeezing with a pair of pliers (like the other guys said). Undo it and slide it up the tube.
Normally I wouldn't cut anything on my bike, but for this, the quickest way is to cleanly cut the hose right where the radiator connection ends. (about an inch of hose) Then carefully cut the inch of hose off the radiator connection, apply a little coolant as lubricant and it will slide right back on. It is a pain in the ass to get off, hence cutting it, but going back on is actually super easy. SLide the clamp back down over the radiator connection, and reclamp/tighten it back down.
The Ducati factory makes that overflow hose with about 9-12 inches of extra tube, so unless you plan on removing that tube over 9 times, 1 inch won't hurt anything.
I have never tried removing it without cutting it, but if you are really that concerned about losing an inch of that hose, compressed air would get it off pretty quick.
~Some die just to live...
Last edited by Wa11er98S; June 12th, 2012 at 03:33 AM.
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