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Old July 3rd, 2012, 11:17 AM   #1
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1098 Engine Tear Down and Rebuild for Dummies

Without going into detail. The warranty claim was denied so ive decided to tear down my 08 1098 9kmile engine to see what happen. I hope this thread will help assist those who want to do the same.

My skill-set is intermediate knowledge. Zero on Ducati but in basic automobile, dirtbike engine and so forth. Big thanks to Eric9877 and DoorDudes for support

Gameplan:
1.) Tear Down and inspection of damage: At this time with a cam probe, i did not see any cylinder damage. I hope only main bearings are trashed with brass everywhere in my engine. Engine turns freelying and the piston appear to move fluidly. Only symptom so far is ALOT of brass in the oil screen.
2.) Rebuild: If no topend damage, i will send the crank out for balance/Knifeedged, have the cylinder walls mic'd, observe pistons, replace main bearings with the 1098R bushings, degunk engine, valve shim adjustment, probably should do new belts, and maybe a few other things but first need to know if the engine is rebuildable.

I have started gathering tools. Please let me know if you think of anything else and I will edit.

Tools:
Hello! i heard you were the man to talk to. Ive been reading your post helping people with repairs or maintenance and wanted to know if you could supply some advice/assistance to me. I am going to start a post soon after i get some basic info down.

Ducati declined my good will warranty on my engine failure so i have decided to try and tear it down to see if there is any major damage or if the main bearings just spun.

Im towing the bike back this weekending from the dealer in dallas but i wanted to start buying all the tools i will need. Assuming the engine only incurred main bearing spin, and brass bits sumped through, my plan was, tear down by the manual, send jugs to machine shop to check walls for damage, clean up the brass and interior, open the oil passages, send the crank for balance and I will put new bushings, then back together with new shims and belts.

based on the above, i THINK i will need the following for the entire rebuild: (anything major im missing?) I have marked in BLUE tools i will need for the teardown. Economically, i think it would be best to purchase the required tear down tools first to ensure the motor is rebuild-able.

0.) Manuals: I have the 700 page service manual, but I assume i should pick up the LT Snyder manual
1.) Clutch holder: ebay no big deal. I actually loosened the nut off with a impact gun so its off now.
2.) flywheel holder:i cant seem to find this anywhere...i see it on the ducatitoolrental.com any ideas where to get this?

3.) is the above the same as the alternator removal tool?
4.)i cant figure out what this tool is on the ducatitoolrental site


4.) Cam Wheel tool for belt tensioner and nut removal require the same socket right?if so i saw the below..if this isnt for the wheel tightening and the nut removal then let me know



6.) crank socket to turn the engine?


7.) Degree plate for TDC?

8.) and generic tools like forceps, engine grease, impact, feeler and dial gauges, torque wrench, etc. I have most all the basic automobile tools.


9.) valve shim measuring tool or EMS kit: Desmo Times Product 87 - 2V Shim Measurement Tool i dont get exactly what this is for, but I will figure this out later.


10.) Belt tensioning tool: I guess i can use a tuner on my phone. Will discuss later.


Also please someone confirm the below parts required and machine shop requirements.

Rebuild Parts and Labor:
1.) Crank Shaft Ball Bearing 75191.3380 X 1: $113.99
2.) Crank Shaft Ball Bearing Holder Bushing 710.1.125.1A X 1: $116.20
3.) 1098R Connecting Rod Half-Bearing 112.1.012.1AD or AE X 2(depending on what size will be needed): $44.23 X 2 = $88.46
4.) Connecting Rod Top Bushing for piston(will i need this??) 711.1.089.1A X 2: $19.77 X 2= $39.54
5.) Head Gasket: 786.1.092.2A X 2 OR will i need Head Gasket Set 791.2.044.1A(it doesnt say what it comes with?): $125.83X 2=251.66 or gasket kit for $311.78
6.) Black hi-Temp Silicone gasket marker: 15
7.) Head bolts?? are there any bolts that are single use only and require fresh bolts when rebuilding?
Total Parts Cost: $684.97

Machine Shop Cost:
1.) Balance Crankshaft: $149.00
2.) Adder for Knife Edge/polish: $150
3.) Cylinder Walls measured: $100

Total Labor Cost: $400.00

Estimated Project Cost less tools: $1085.00

Maintenance:
1.) New Belts 737.4.025.1A X 2: $73.16 X 2 = $146.32
2.) New Shims: Not sure how to include cost but say 9 bucks X 4

Total Maintenance parts: 182.32

Grand Total: 1267.32


Last edited by Quackquack; July 5th, 2012 at 02:13 PM.
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Old July 3rd, 2012, 02:09 PM   #2
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Looks like you got a "fun" project ahead of you, hopefully it doesn't interrupt your riding season too badly.

Although i have never done a tear down as big as you are about to do i can help you with a couple things.

the valve shim measuring tool is used as an insert for the closing valve shims because of the way that they are shaped you cannot accurately measure them without this insert. Most shim kits come with it included (which they really should considering shim kits are 299...) since your bike is such low miles, your valves are more than likely within spec and you will not need this tool, nor a shim kit. However since you have the bike all torn down i recommend checking your valve clearances since your already in there and it will only take a few minutes. For this you will only need a set of feeler gauges

As for a degree wheel for finding TDC you could make your own (however you would need a crank shaft turning tool) or if you don't need to find perfect perfect TDC at any point you could just put a wooden dowel down the spark plug hole in each cylinder to find TDC.

for the belt tensioning you can use software made by the same guy who developed ducatidiag:

http://jpl250rs.perso.sfr.fr/

in the download section its the program called Courroies you will need an inexpensive microphone for your laptop to make it work.


Best of luck man!

Last edited by Drezdun; July 3rd, 2012 at 07:24 PM.
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Old July 5th, 2012, 10:22 AM   #3
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the one you cant figure out is the flywheel holder.
dont use those cam tools- the tabs will sheer off or bend- doorsdude has a thred with the better socket.
crank turning tool wil be helpfull

these feeler gauges work the best

clutch holder tool is needed to torque properly on reinstall

left case cover remover helps alot
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Old July 5th, 2012, 02:02 PM   #4
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Updated with best guess of Parts required and additional Machine shop labor rates.

Last edited by Quackquack; July 5th, 2012 at 02:05 PM.
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Old July 5th, 2012, 07:23 PM   #5
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If only you were closer, I'd love to lend a hand along with the VDST I already purchased for my 848's 15k service.
Also could learn some new stuff and lessons from you as another DIY guy.
You could save some more money by getting the camwheel lock tool when you replace the belts. Cost me like $5 free shipping
Belt covers will need the T30 star shaped T-handle
If you haven't bought the belts, go to Ca-cycleworks/motowheels for Exactfit belts for $100 (for both) they also have crankcase/clutch gasket Exact fit also.
Please keep us update with the rebuild process
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Old July 30th, 2012, 07:00 PM   #6
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Ok im stuck.....ive stripped the bike down to the point i can almost start removing engine bolts....then i realize im stuck when i was looking at how to remove the chain(since i dont have a chain tool to put slack in it).

obviously i have to remove the swingarm pivot bolt which will allow me to remove the chain(sprockets)...but then how do i support the bike??? I have it on rear wheel and front wheel stands now.....
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Old July 30th, 2012, 07:13 PM   #7
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Hang the bike by the frame with some cam buckles or ratchet straps mounted to a beam in the cieling of your garage- I put one on each grip, and one on both sides of the rear sub so I could balance it properly when I did it with the monsters I've built.

Just turn the eccentric and loosen the chain, then you can undo the front gear and slip it off the output shaft, I'd take the center nut off the rear carier too so you can get the most movement- no need to break the chain untill you are in need of a replacement. The chain can stay on the swingarm and just set the whole thing aside. with the wheel and entire rear brake system attached.
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Old July 30th, 2012, 07:15 PM   #8
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Can you loosen the eccentric without the tool?

I have no ceiling beams exposed...hrmm looks like I need an aframe car hoist

Last edited by Quackquack; July 30th, 2012 at 07:22 PM.
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Old July 30th, 2012, 07:23 PM   #9
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yes, take the two bolts all the way out, give it a sray of wd40, wrap a rag around the adjuster where the spanner fits and turn it. then order the tool so you can do your own chain adjustments in the future. If you find yourself with extra time it wouldn't hurt to pull the rear hub/eccentric all apart, clean it all and put some fresh grease in the swingarm shell and on the rear wheel bearing. at a minimum clean off the treads of the two clamp bolts and in the holes of the swingarm and load the bolts up with grease before reinstalling.

It's going to be a project- but after it's done you can build your entire bike ground up and not have to pay anyone else. you also can be sure of the work quality since you've done it yourself instead of hoping your tech is worth a damn and didn't have a bad day with your bike. In the end it is quite liberating.
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Old July 30th, 2012, 08:57 PM   #10
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Aw that was easy. Once loosened you can rotate it with a rag covered screwdriver. Now to bring over an engine goist
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