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Old August 15th, 2010, 07:21 PM   #1
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see how to set the belt tension with no special tools!!!

Finally after a couple of months since I've had this idea, I made a report so you guys can follow and do it yourselves!!!!

The principle is to put each cyl @ tdc end of compression stroke when the cams are @ rest and somehow check the slack on the belt......this is how you can do it yourself without any fancy tools and be pretty close to factory specs:

First, remove everything needed to get to the belt cvrs and remove them, then remove the coils and spark plugs.

Second, align the green dot in the layshaft pulley with the mark in the clutch cover, put an screw driver through the spark plug hole and rotate the crank (bike on 6th gear, rear tire on the air) back and forth to make sure you are @ tdc, the cam's slots should be align with the head surface to make sure they're @ rest and you are @ tdc on the final of compression stroke.

Third, mark the cam's pulleys to know your front cyl cam timing alignment marks, it'll look like this.......(layshaft pulley is already marked from factory, the cam's pulleys I did with witheout).......

see pics 1, 2, 3.

now you can remove the belt to do your valve adjustment by unloosing the 12mm nut on the eccentric adjuster and remove it or readjust the belt (will show you later)

Fourth, find tdc on rear cyl with the screw driver through the spark plug hole but make sure you are @ the end of the comp stroke (cams @ rest, cams slots will look exactly like on the front cyl, cam's slots align with the head surface, shaft pulley will be aprox 1/4 of turn away from green dot), mark them, this will be your rear cyl cam timing alignment marks.......it'll look like this....

see pics 4, 5, 6.

now you can remove the belt to do your valve adjustment by unloosing the 12mm nut on the eccentric adjuster and remove it or readjust the belt.

Fifth, to adjust the belt we'd need a hertz reader (should be @ 100hz, not lower than 90) so I'd figured if I can adjust it with the proper tool and then measure somehow the slack on the belt It'd be pretty accurate, so after trying different methods I came up with the perfect tool, a 10 mm wrench!!!!!

So the ides is to center the tool on the middle and push up and down on the belt to check the tension, It'll look like this........

see pics 7, 8, 9.

After adjusting the belts with the wrench method I rechecked them with the Hz reader..........

see pic 10.

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Sixth, if you removed the belts you'll have to do the rear cyl first, align the timing marks, then put the belt, then the adjuster and the 12mm nut with its washer, then put a big flat screw driver between the nut of the adjuster and the ID ring to rotate it and tension the belt and gently tight the nut (this will allow you to have some tension and readjust it as needed).
Once you get to the desired tension then torque the nut to 26NM but holding the adjuster @ the same time (it might twist and you'll have to start over with the adjustment).

Before you put all back together rotate the engine slow by hand to make sure you didn't miss the alignment marks, it should turn over smoothly without any problems.

Seventh, put it back together and go for a test ride!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Last edited by devimau; August 15th, 2010 at 09:33 PM.
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Old August 24th, 2010, 08:32 AM   #2
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Neat! You could do the old Desmodue's with 5mm and 6mm allen wrenches, I was wondering what the method for these would be.

I wonder if there is an iphone app that could also measure Hz?

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Old August 24th, 2010, 08:55 AM   #3
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Nice And thanks
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Old September 2nd, 2010, 05:37 AM   #4
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This is a nice idea, and we all want to achieve the 100 Hz setting without spending 100s of $$.
Many of us have been setting belt tension for years, by feel. Not too loose, not too tight.
The variable in the method you describe is just how much pressure is exerted against the belt to achieve the 10mm distortion.
Part of the process is having a tool which holds the eccentric pulley whilst you tighten the nut. I made such a tool, with 2 x 3.8mm pins set 10mm apart, and an offset handle to clear the airbox (on the rear head).
The other part of the process is checking them frequently - particularly after fitting new belts, or doing trackdays.
I guess the question is, how close to the 100Hz setting were you able to achieve with the 'spanner method'?
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Old September 2nd, 2010, 03:39 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pat1098 View Post
This is a nice idea, and we all want to achieve the 100 Hz setting without spending 100s of $$.
Many of us have been setting belt tension for years, by feel. Not too loose, not too tight.
The variable in the method you describe is just how much pressure is exerted against the belt to achieve the 10mm distortion.

+1 My thoughts as well

I have a question though Devimau,
Is 100 mhz measured at the midpoint between the cam shafts? According to the service manual, 110mhz is recommended at the midpoint between the crankshaft and belt tensioner. I'm just wondering why different spot was picked as a measuring point.

To me it seems the longest section of the belt (red circle) would yield the most accurate result.
Or is it the way you guys been doing for a while on Ducatis?
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Old September 2nd, 2010, 08:41 PM   #6
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Subbie79: the mathesis or dds have an optical reader and gates has a mic and those signals have to be picked up were you pointed the red circle on the horizontal cyl and between the layshaft puley (is not the crankshaft) and the fixed roller on the vertical.....however..... 100 hz with those readers equals to a flex of the belt plus and minus 5mm (that's why I used a 10mm wrench as a center point) @ were you pointed the green circle.
And yes, I've been doing it for quite a while, I think you missunderstood.....
Pat, the flex is pretty much all the way you can, there's a point were the belt just doesn't flex anymore, me and others who tried it read within 3hz from each other.
I remember the 6mm allen method on the 2v motors but It never worked for me, this one I've been monitoring it for a few adjustments now and is quite accurate, always within 2 or 3hz for me.
Ducati makes a tool to hold the tensioner while you set the tension but I find it easier to star with low tension and tighten the 12mm nut snug and work my way up with a long flat and skiny screw driver on one of the holes for the tool and works quite well, it makes it way easier.

Last edited by devimau; September 2nd, 2010 at 08:45 PM.
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Old September 19th, 2010, 01:04 AM   #7
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Thanks for going to the trouble of putting all this up Devimau. Very helpful.
I was thinking of lashing out on the Riva freqency meter, as the two I'd downloaded (even with a $50 uni-directional microphone) didn't give meaningful readings.
I still like my tensioner 2-pin tool for setting, and may make a fixed tool to replace the 10mm spanner (what you call "wrench") for best accuracy.
Thanks again for sharing. Within 2-3 Hz is incredible - that accuracy is difficult to achieve even WITH the frequency meter.
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Old December 26th, 2010, 01:01 PM   #8
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FYI,

I have used Visual Analyser with a cheap mike on my laptop giving reliable readings. VA is a free app. Just google Visual Analyser.

Cheers
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Old December 26th, 2010, 02:24 PM   #9
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What do you consider to be reliable, within how many hz
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Old December 26th, 2010, 05:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steventh View Post
FYI,

I have used Visual Analyser with a cheap mike on my laptop giving reliable readings. VA is a free app. Just google Visual Analyser.

Cheers
I have Visual Analyser downloaded also, but get a constantly changing readout, even when all around is quiet.
That's why I bought the uni-directional mike - but I still couldn't get a meaningful reading.
Might go to plan B and make a 10mm 'gap tool' like Devimau's.
I still set my belts by feel, and have had no problems.
I believe the service interval on these is too long - they'll always be loose when you get to them if you leave them for the recommended interval.
That's all about matching Honda et al on servicing, not optimal maintenance.
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