I did use Cloud’s wrench for a bolt in the front as well but if you drop down the oil cooler (one bolt) you will have an easier time here as you can see the lines from the oil cooler get in the way (some what) of the tools turning.

At this point all of the old exhaust should be removed from the bike including the O2 sensor and the Servo Motor.

***Termi Exhaust Install****

Unlike the removal we are now going to work from the headers forward. Fun getting off the rear header and fun putting it back on!

Time to break out the new exhaust gaskets and these are directional by the way. If you hold the exhaust gasket in your hands, the side that is raised up goes towards the header flange.

I did not coat these with anything and just installed them as is from the dealer. So put the new gasket and header on the bike and tighten the bolts the best you can with your fingers. On the rear header I was able to torque two of the 3 bolts and obviously not the one that is difficult to remove using the Cloudrider wrench yet again.

I tried to work my way around the bolts to apply even pressure. I am sure I went a little on the tight side with the nuts I did not torque but in this case, better a little tight than loose as no one wants exhaust leaks! Once the header is all tight move your way up and install the front one. Now if I recall right I did not torque any of these. My advice is if you can torque it and there are specs., do it!

Tighten up the front header in the same way as you did the rear.

Once both headers are installed, work from the front header pipe back installing the exhaust.

When I installed my rear header pipe I had some issues with the “snail shaped” pipe seating all the way in the rear header. It pushed in all the way off the bike but when installed it only went into the mark shown.

Being that it is a pipe with in a pipe in this case, it all seems to fit ok. It is quite possible that this is the same manor it fit before I removed the stock exhaust but I don’t recall… What I did have to do is send my pipes back and have that part of the exhaust recoated to avoid a gap in the coating when fully assembled, more pix to come. On that note, be sure to have this pipe coated half way just to be on the safe side in a case of better too much than too little when ceramic coating.

Also a topic of discussion here on the forum has been how these brackets overlap one and other. As to which one is on the top and which one is on the bottom. I assembled them both ways and my feeling as well as the consciences of my poll is the correct way is shown as followed.
Flat bracket onto of curved when stacking.

Either way it should work and mount correctly. The problem I ran into was where the two pipes join together. If I was to put the brackets the other way, it was very hard for me to join these two pipes together and fit a bolt between them; it did not make a perfect hole like it does when the brackets are stacked in the way above. Note that either way had zero affect on my header issue of the pipe not going in all the way.

***Installing the Termi Air Filter***

Unbolt the ram air duct from the right side (3 Bolts) and then slip off the duct from the front scoop.

Remove stock filter and clean air box if dirty.

Now before I installed the Termi race filter I went around both outsides of the filter with weatherseal for a tighter fit and to help prevent some of the problems people are having with excess dirt entering the air box.

Weatherseal

Installed Weatherseal

I did not really seem to have this problem as my air box was pretty clean but I figure why not do this since it was out and I was installing the race filter.

Be careful when you reinstall the blots not to cross thread them.





***Installing the Race ECU***

Really there is not much to this part… Unbolt the stock ECU and then release the clamps to remove it. Replace it with the Race ECU.

ECU

Slide Clamp

Clamp released but not pulled away from ECU.

Be sure when you install the new ECU not to bend any pins when reclosing these clamps!

Once the Race ECU is installed, I had to do the following because everything was in metric, maybe a stock setting of the Race ECU?

1. With the bike turned off, press & HOLD the UP mode button.
2. While HOLDING the UP mode button turn the key to the on position.
3. The dash will light up with REPR.
4. Press the Down mode button twice or until you get to "set UNIT".
5. Pres & Hold the Down Mode button until "EU" is showing. Your unit may have been set to another country and may show a different country code at this step.
6. Pres the Down mode button until your desired country is showing.
7. Press and Hold the Down mode button to program in your new settings.

After all this is done the bike must be took to your local dealer for them to make adjustments with the Ducati Computer. My mechanic recommended that I DO NOT ride or start the bike until he has done this but I know some people on here have even driven their bike to the dealer to have this service performed. The choice is yours…

More pix to come but this write-up is a pretty good start (I think).

Thanks to Cloudrider for the wrench hook up (they will be back in the mail soon) and FlyerLen for the ECU info. above. Also thanks to anyone else who answered questions in other post regarding this install.

I also would like to thank Brad and Josh at Performance Coatings. They fixed my mistake on my pipes for FREE even though it was my own fault! :yo:

Highly recommend at: http://www.performancecoatings.com/

Best.
Jason

 

Also guys, if you see anything that needs fix please let me know so I can correct it.

Thanks.
Jason

 

Q my friend, that was an awesome write up! i have been looking to do this myself and trying to decide between a full and slip-on set up. Your write ups are always a huge help. Thank you for your time and effort!

 

Top notch as always. Now go blow up another helmet would ya, you need a break. opcorn:

 

NP and your welcome. I am going to tighten this up a little bit with some more pix and add to the description but I wanted to get the majority of it posted.

Jason

 

yeah, how many miles ya got anyway! man, I am still dying laughing over that! I love it when ya blow stuff up!:yo:

 

nice and good write up Jason.

I did not put the exhaust flip apart to get the cables from the servo motor off. I used a large adj. open end wrench and turned the motor in each direction to get the cables on the end off.

Before opening each of the 3x exhaust mounting screw spray some W40 on them. It helps alot to get them more easy off.

When you take the exhaust mounting screws back on, place the one difficulty screw to a new loaction that it is not getting more damaged as the copper material is very soft!

Before you take all exhaust pipes off, take a smooth plastic hammer nick on each side to loose them a little.

For the airfilter change just take one of the front black panel covers off and take then the vertical screw for the intake flow box in the front area off. Then the 3 mounting srews and remove this air inlet.

 

Good Write up!!
Do not forget to post yr full termi system when you finish.

 

Hmmm, you have just made me think Jason. Am thinking while I am doing all this, I might order the TTX36 shock, and do the whole lot at the same time. Why do it all again to change the shock out?

Can you start work on a shock change out thread real quick??????

 

Hmmm, you have just made me think Jason. Am thinking while I am doing all this, I might order the TTX36 shock, and do the whole lot at the same time. Why do it all again to change the shock out?

Can you start work on a shock change out thread real quick??????:stickpoke

Sure... You send me the shock and I'll do the write-up.

Jason

 

More Pix Added.

Bike goes to the dealer tomorrow for adjustments. :yo:

Jason

 

great write up thanks for sharing!

 

So I took my bike to the dealer today to have the TPS etc. adjusted after installing the exhaust. I had my mechanic check my work over. Good news, no leaks or issues with my install! My mechanic made some adjustments with the DDS had me take the bike down the road to see how it rode, GREAT!

:drummer:

Got off with a bill for $28.82 with the tax! Hellz Yeah!! :yo:

So go for it guys install your own exhaust and save $$$!

Jason

 

Hey Jason,

My big of a difference did you notice with the full system? Did you loose any bottom end?

Thanks,

Ken

 

Hey Ken,

I think the big difference for me was when I added the Power Commander. I mean the bike felt great with the full exhaust system but you know how it goes… Sometimes you either expect too much or too little from things. Maybe I hyped myself up too much for the full exhaust and not enough for the Power Commander, I don’t know… “shrug”

With that said, the PC and the full exhaust system is awesome! Sounds great, runs great and looks great!!! I did not really notice any low end loss with the full exhaust and with the PC it felt like I gained some.

Jason

 

Hello,
I was hoping you could clear a few thing's up for me. Can I still get my Full Termi's ceramic coated if I've been using them already? Or must they be new right out of the box? Where did you have pipes done and how much did it run you? How much of a gain did you get after adding the Power Commander Unit? If I weigh around 240 lbs should I be looking to upgrade my shock or can the stock one be set up for me without any trouble? Sorry for slamming you with all the questions but you obviously know much more about this bike than I do and I'm trying to learn from someone who know's what he's talking about.
Take care,
Christian Files
US Navy-ret.

 

Pipes can be coated at anytime.

I got my pipes coated by Performance Coatings and I don't recall the exact price but I can tell you it was at least 75 dollars less than Jet-Hot.

I noticed a big difference with the power commander in the performance of the bike when I installed the map more so than the full exhaust. However… I do not have any dyno numbers to prove it, only going on seat of the pants ONLY.

Stock shock is fine.

Hope this helps.

Jason

 

You can coat also used pipes, the just have to get cleaned better.

The PC power allone I don't know, but the throttle and how the bike runs will be smoother and better (for my experience).

I assume you could set the rear shock up for the 240.
When you search around you will find for how many pounds the normal orig. setting is for. When I am not wrong for a little bid above 200.

 

That's exactly the finish I wanted to do if I did the full Termi system. Great to see it done, and it looks great!
Thanks for the write up, too!

 

Nice write up... I have everything stripped down to the mid pipe on my 848, I am going to get a friend to come over to lend a hand for the rest.....
There were no instructions in the box.....is their such a thing???

 

Yes, there are instruction but they suck a$$. If you need them, I can email them to you if you like.

I am not blowning my own horn or anything here but my write-up is much more instructive espically with the input from other members.

Jason

 

I did not received any inructions with it and also didn't needed them.

 

Well I have it as a PDF but it is too big to attach here so like I said, it's an email away if anyone needs it.

Jason

 

I enlisted the help of a friend who just finished rebuilding a 996 and a 1098, it didnt actually go that badly, it is pretty straight forward. Hardest part was getting the little screw in the back end, between the pipes.... oh, and the bottom right flange bolt!

I saw the guy building the 848's at the factory.... maybe that helped, lol!

 

Hardest part was getting the little screw in the back end, between the pipes.... oh, and the bottom right flange bolt!

All to well my friend, all to well.

Jason

 

Great Write-Up

 

Just installed my system this last weekend. The write-up made it easy but I have no idea how you got the exhaust servo cables off.

 

A little muscle I guess, cut the damn things... Unless you install the stock exhaust again, you'll never have a need for it.

Jason

 

#8

I did not put the exhaust flip apart to get the cables from the servo motor off. I used a large adj. open end wrench and turned the motor in each direction to get the cables on the end off.