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Old January 29th, 2010, 05:26 PM   #1
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Changing Fork Oil

Who's changed their own ohlins fork oil on their 1098?

Is it difficult to do? Anyone have any instructions to follow? How do you drain the animal? What do you use to measure the fork oil level, something like this?
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Old January 29th, 2010, 06:43 PM   #2
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I have done my springs and changed the oil on my 848. The problem I ran into is that you are not provided the air volume which is what that tool measures. It is not as simple as I had first thought of just replacing the oil. The air volume changes even with just a spring upgrade. Realistically if you are changing the oil then all the parts should be pulled out and cleaned. It's not hard to get the cartridge out, but is hard to take all the parts apart to clean. I assume someone like DK would provide the air volume for you if you did the work yourself. Otherwise I would take to John Sharrard, or SSS (Joe Skid), as I believe your in Ontario?
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Old January 29th, 2010, 07:50 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torch View Post
I have done my springs and changed the oil on my 848. The problem I ran into is that you are not provided the air volume which is what that tool measures. It is not as simple as I had first thought of just replacing the oil. The air volume changes even with just a spring upgrade. Realistically if you are changing the oil then all the parts should be pulled out and cleaned. It's not hard to get the cartridge out, but is hard to take all the parts apart to clean. I assume someone like DK would provide the air volume for you if you did the work yourself. Otherwise I would take to John Sharrard, or SSS (Joe Skid), as I believe your in Ontario?
Thanks Torch.

John Sherrand it pretty tough to get a hold of, he's always at the track or doing something somewhere...

Don't know Joe Skid, who is he? Have you got an email address, if so pm me. Funny though, I've been bouncing some questions back to DK, the question of air volume never can up...what do you mean by air volume?...I asked him if he knew any ohlins guys here in Canada and he mentioned Jon Cornwell.

Btw, you don't by anychance have a copy of the FG511 Owners manual do you? Oh, and yes, I'm in Ontario. Thanks Torch.
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Old February 1st, 2010, 07:38 PM   #4
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FG 511 Owners Manual

Anyone know where I can find a copy? It's not listed on Ohlins Website...

I googled everywhere...anyone?

Thanks.
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Old February 1st, 2010, 08:43 PM   #5
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Anyone know where I can find a copy? It's not listed on Ohlins Website...

I googled everywhere...anyone?

Thanks.
Not specifically for the 511s but are for the FG R&Ts in general. http://www.ohlins.com/Products/Owner...M_07282-05.pdf

Found here http://www.ohlins.com/Product-search/

The air gap basically acts as a secondary spring at the end of the travel. The more oil the less air at the top - air being more compressible. The more air you have the less harsh the final stage of travel and vice versa. Playing with the oil level could prevent the spring from bottoming out under certain circumstances. More for fine tuning under specific circumstances imo. The correct weight of spring and recommended quantity of oil would suit 95% of most riders under most situations.

My 'olden day' Ducati had Marzochhi forks which were rather crude by todays standards and actually had tyre valve type air fittings in the tops of the fork caps so you could adjust the 'standing' air pressure without fiddling with oil levels. A sort of crude preload adjustment.

I was under the understanding that the volume of oil is not as important as the volume of air left and therefore the final measurements should be taken from the top of the open tube down to the level of the oil to get each side equal. Unless you completely remove every drop of oil there is bound to be an unequal amount of oil left in each leg.
That tool would be the Ducks nuts Smeegle.
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Old February 1st, 2010, 09:30 PM   #6
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measured the air volume on the weekend using that exact tool above to 150mm......one fork leg had 40mm less than the other, might explain a few things
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Old February 1st, 2010, 09:47 PM   #7
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Yeh - sorry - didn't pay to much attention to that tool. Looks the goods - sucks out oil to the correct level set by the slider.
Better than a piece of wire with less mess.
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Old February 1st, 2010, 10:12 PM   #8
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Yeh - sorry - didn't pay to much attention to that tool. Looks the goods - sucks out oil to the correct level set by the slider.
Better than a piece of wire with less mess.
didn't mean to sound like i was correcting you mate
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Old February 2nd, 2010, 01:23 AM   #9
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You are correct with your info, but a do it yourselfer should also have no to ensure no air is in the system, then measure. Duc manuals do not provide the air volume which is a much more accurate way of getting suspension to feel right. I did my own and went initially by fluid volume suggested to be put in, when we went and checked the air volume it was quite a bit off of where the air volume should be, and the feel was way more what I wanted for the track once we got it in that ballpark. I'm no DK but I do know that I will never do another set without setting to air volume again. That being said, does anyone want to help adjust and set up my gas charged forks for me, cuz I'm in a whole new world now. I'm going to have to spend some $ at a test day to get it dialed in for me!
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Old February 2nd, 2010, 06:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torch View Post
You are correct with your info, but a do it yourselfer should also have no to ensure no air is in the system, then measure. Duc manuals do not provide the air volume which is a much more accurate way of getting suspension to feel right. I did my own and went initially by fluid volume suggested to be put in, when we went and checked the air volume it was quite a bit off of where the air volume should be, and the feel was way more what I wanted for the track once we got it in that ballpark. I'm no DK but I do know that I will never do another set without setting to air volume again. That being said, does anyone want to help adjust and set up my gas charged forks for me, cuz I'm in a whole new world now. I'm going to have to spend some $ at a test day to get it dialed in for me!
Torch,

I was speaking with DK earlier today and I asked him if he knows ohlins specialists in Ontario. He said Jon Cornwell. If you don't know who he is, just google him... He is as good as it gets when it comes to Ohlins suspension. I called Jon this evening and have things set to finally have Superbike valving installed in my forks this spring. Farkin A!!!
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Old February 11th, 2010, 04:20 AM   #11
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the problem I see is the air gap is controlled by the oil height; however, i dont believe Ducati says whether you measure this with the spring in place or out of place which could drastically affect oil height. I've only done my oil once in a previous bike and it ended up being a HUGE mistake, my forks clicked etc.
My dealer will do it for $85 plus parts $40 = 135 with tax. Given this is only every 12k miles it isn't that big of a factor and the tools alone would cost me $200 and every new bike you may need new fork seal drivers, etc. Some things are easier to just pay to have done.

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Old February 22nd, 2010, 03:22 AM   #12
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Okay, I got my forks done this past weekend:
You collapse the tubes, remove the spring and preload spacer.
Add fork oil, hold shaft and screw on cap. Pump tube to 'bleed' it. unscrew cap again to measure. Once the oil height is set, 165mm I believe (Showa) and 145mm (Ohlins), unscrew cap and add spring an spacer back in.
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Old February 22nd, 2010, 04:33 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brettc63 View Post
Not specifically for the 511s but are for the FG R&Ts in general. http://www.ohlins.com/Products/Owner...M_07282-05.pdf

Found here http://www.ohlins.com/Product-search/

The air gap basically acts as a secondary spring at the end of the travel. The more oil the less air at the top - air being more compressible. The more air you have the less harsh the final stage of travel and vice versa. Playing with the oil level could prevent the spring from bottoming out under certain circumstances. More for fine tuning under specific circumstances imo. The correct weight of spring and recommended quantity of oil would suit 95% of most riders under most situations.

My 'olden day' Ducati had Marzochhi forks which were rather crude by todays standards and actually had tyre valve type air fittings in the tops of the fork caps so you could adjust the 'standing' air pressure without fiddling with oil levels. A sort of crude preload adjustment.

I was under the understanding that the volume of oil is not as important as the volume of air left and therefore the final measurements should be taken from the top of the open tube down to the level of the oil to get each side equal. Unless you completely remove every drop of oil there is bound to be an unequal amount of oil left in each leg.
That tool would be the Ducks nuts Smeegle.
The volume of oil (the measured level) is directly related to the air volume. More oil, less air, harder in the lower travel. Ohlins specify setting the oil level with the spring installed and the fork fully compressed. I have set quite a few this way and using Ducati's specified level of 155mm seems just perfect for road use. Easiest way to empty the things is remove the fork, open the top, tip it on it's side and pump the slider up and down until it's empty. The pumping action will stir up and dislodge the majority of settled debris so a complete dissassembly is not necessary to just change the oil. Make sure when you refill to pump the fork full length a few times to purge air from the valving before setting the final level.
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