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Old December 15th, 2007, 08:17 AM   #1
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How to Change Clutch/ Brake Fluid

If any body is interested, here are several steps on how to change the brake/clutch fluid on your bikes...
This should take you under 1/2 hr..


First place bike on a good stand



Here are some of tools you will need....
Depending on your bike, but on my triple 9, I am using a small phillips, a 5/16th wrench, a brake bleeder vaccum pump, and a few shop towls



Make sure you get the right brake fluid, here are a couple of choices,
I will be using the dot 4 high temp. racing fluid (getting ready for Tuesdays track day)



Unscrew the Res. cover



If your fluid looks like this, you defenitley need to change it



Locate the bleed nipple from the clutch/brake



Remove protective Cap



Place box end wrench on nut and the place hose on the nipple



Loosen nut and then start pumping brake bleeder...




This is what you should see when you start pumping, ( the fluid level dropping).



Make sure you drop a couple of towels under your work area, just incase



All fluid gone



It's all in this cannister



Once done, remove canister and pour old fluid into a oil pan
Then clean the canister really good with a shop towel



If you have a compressor, blow out any access fluid with a blow gun,
make sure you cover the resev. with shop towel to prevent fluid going everywhere.



Tighten nut at the nipple
Pour new brake fluid into resev. use a small funnel



Start pumping up to 25lbs. then release pressure by loosening nut to start bleeding brake /clutch.
make sure to watch fluid level up top...add more fluid if neccesery..
repeat the steps 4 times or until you don't here any air coming out into
canister



After you are done pour clean fluid back into can



last step, by pressing your brake/clutch levers you will check to see if you have any pressure...if you do then you are done...

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Old December 16th, 2007, 05:46 AM   #2
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Nice write up & pics but each time you do that you have to carefully get the air out of the system.

I do it differently. I open up the reservoir & place a clear plastic tube over the bleed nipple bleed most of the fluid out of the reservoir, letting gravity do the work. Use a lint free towel to soak up the remaining fluid and clean the interior of the reservoir. After a thorough cleaning, I then fill the reservoir with replacement fluid making sure that there is no air bubble adhering to the fluid outlet tube at the base of the reservoir. Bleed again & monitor the clear plastic tube while draining the fluid into a container. Keep adding fluid to the reservoir so it doesn't run dry & introduce air into the system. You'll see the discolored old fluid pass though the clear tubing. when the fluid starts running clear then you have replaced all the old fluid. Just be sure to never let the reservoir run dry or you will be bleeding the system.

Before putting the reservoir cap back makes sure you clean it of all old fluid and moisture buildup. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and attracts moisture and much of what you see could be water so clean the underside of the cap and fluid expansion boot well.

Done ... & in a few minutes. Pump up the levers and you will have a clean & blead system.

Sorry for the jacking but I'm lazy and hate adding air to an airless system- Chris

Last edited by ckirkst2s; December 16th, 2007 at 06:19 AM.
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Old December 29th, 2007, 05:55 AM   #3
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Any chance of you posting a photo of the underside of the cap on that little vacuum bottle you have? I suspect it's just a simple cap with two ports, but I was wondering if there are any provisions in the cap for keeping the liquid from being pulled into the vacuum pump.

Great Post. Thanks.

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Old February 9th, 2010, 07:48 PM   #4
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FONZZ,
i know this is an old post but i need help. im not using that pump you show in your pics to change the clutch fluid to my 749. ive already done all of the necessary steps. and i find my lever to be tooo hard.. would you know where im going wrong?
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Old February 9th, 2010, 07:56 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckirkst2s View Post

Before putting the reservoir cap back makes sure you clean it of all old fluid and moisture buildup. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and attracts moisture and much of what you see could be water so clean the underside of the cap and fluid expansion boot well.
Hygroscopic.
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Old February 10th, 2010, 12:15 PM   #6
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A couple of comments here. Brake fluid eats paint. Cover all painted surfaces when working with it and have water handy to neutralize any spills immediately. NEVER use an air hose. It'll spray fluid all over the shop.

My preference is to suck the resrvoir dry, wipe it out, and fill with fresh fluid. Then suck the remaining fluid out of the bleed screw untl clean fluid appears.

Once fluid has been poured out of the can, it's contaminated, more so if it's been circulated through the system. NEVER pour it back in the can with the fresh fluid.
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Old February 10th, 2010, 12:27 PM   #7
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I thought returning the fluid back to the container was a bad idea as well. It's best to do this with friends. The bottle will contain more than enough to do a couple bikes. And once opened, you can't close it and re-use it as it will absorb/collect water. So, once you've opened it, it is toast.
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Old February 10th, 2010, 12:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chipset View Post
I thought returning the fluid back to the container was a bad idea as well. It's best to do this with friends. The bottle will contain more than enough to do a couple bikes. And once opened, you can't close it and re-use it as it will absorb/collect water. So, once you've opened it, it is toast.
I just do 2 bikes in an afternoon. It's a yearly thing. As long as the can/bottle has a good seal, no water vapor can get in. The only time I'd be sure to crack a new container would be for a racebike that I knew the brakes would be getting really hot on. And then the fluid would be changed after every race weekend.
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Old February 10th, 2010, 12:48 PM   #9
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I'm in full agreement until the second picture/step.

But, that what's makes the world go round....
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Old February 10th, 2010, 12:52 PM   #10
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On 999's I'd be cracking open the 6mm black nut inside the reservoir to purge an internal passageway. With it topped up, loosen and pump lever, foaming little bubbles will be ejected. This master cylinder is notorious for trapping a bubble inside top of piston which results in soft brake lever feel.

I need to "burp" mine every three months and repeat on clutch side.
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