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Old May 12th, 2018, 10:36 AM   #1
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1198 Shock Removal

Hi guys,

I am desperately seeking some advice on how to remove the rear shock on a 2010 1198. I've hit numerous problems and cannot seem to find the solution.

1. The lower shock bolt will not budge - I've removed the rubber cover on the swingarm and tried using a hex socket and impact wrench but to no avail.

2. I have removed the two silencers but cannot remove the mid-section as the O2 sensor hits the swingarm. I've tried removing the sensor but access is somewhat limited and I'm worried that any more force will cause the senor or weld to break.

3. Cannot remove the rear wheel - I used a 55mm socket with a breaker bar and impact wrench but it won't budge. The wheel was only taken off about two weeks ago for a new tyre.

I am now at the point of desperation so any advice would be very gratefully received.

Thank you.

Andy
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Old May 12th, 2018, 01:47 PM   #2
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Did you try the workshop manual?
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Old May 12th, 2018, 08:55 PM   #3
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Try removing the linkage at the top of the shock first. Youíll also need to jack up the bike so you can lower the rear wheel enough to get the top of the shock to clear the subframe


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Old May 13th, 2018, 07:35 AM   #4
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It is a pain in the ass to remove the rear shock. I did mine over the winter with an ABBA stand as the bike has to be suspended but you could do the same thing suspending it by the frame with a ladder etc..

I can't remember the exact order I did things in but I think it went something like this.

- Remove rear wheel.
- Loosen all shock bolts so the shock is free and just sitting in there.
- I believe I actually had to raise the swingarm quite high which allowed the 02 sensor on the midpipe to clear the swingarm.
- Drop swingarm and the shock should come free
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Old May 13th, 2018, 09:19 AM   #5
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Thank you for all the response. I have an Abba stand so will be using that.

A friend of mine works in a garage close by so have to decided to drop the bike to him and try their pneumatic wrench’s to free the rear wheel and lower suspension bolt.
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Old May 13th, 2018, 09:26 AM   #6
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That lower bolt might slip out easier once the load is taken off the rear by suspending it from the frame.
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Old May 13th, 2018, 09:21 PM   #7
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That lower bolt should at least turn, even with the bike not suspended. I've found that it is easier to spin loose if the weight is off the shock though. And it is really threaded in there a long ways...I always feel like it is taking forever to come out. I had my rear shock out a couple weeks ago, and will likely need to do it again next week (trying to sort out the ride height with the Forsaken flat link). Be sure once you get it loose to reassemble with anti-sieze and use the proper torque. As far as I can tell, all bolts on the rear shock are 42NM.

I have a 1098 with the full Termi system, so no O2 sensor to worry about, but I do have to take the exhaust off in order to get the swing arm to drop low enough to remove the shock. When I am removing the rear wheel, I keep the bike in gear, on the ground and use the rear brake to keep the rear wheel from spinning while trying to loosen the nut. I also have a good breaker bar and sometimes require an "extension" on it to provide smooth torque instead of trying to bounce it.

Best of luck!
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Old May 14th, 2018, 09:55 AM   #8
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Thanks guys.

The lower suspension bolt really is in there tightly but I’m gonna give it another go this weekend. Once that and the wheel nut are loose I should be ok from there.
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Old May 15th, 2018, 08:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fury84 View Post
Thanks guys.

The lower suspension bolt really is in there tightly but Iím gonna give it another go this weekend. Once that and the wheel nut are loose I should be ok from there.


I was after a rear disc and was given one attached to the swingarm complete with shocker still attached. It came off a track bike, Iíve removed the complete axle but the shock bolt wonít budge( it had a socket stuck to the bolt as the previous owner failed to remove it) Iíve nothing to lose so Iím ready to apply heat.


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Old May 15th, 2018, 11:15 AM   #10
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i will share with you my experience, when i bought the linear link and wanted to change the shock spring for my weight last year. (also send the shock for maintenance). I posted it back at the time, here it is again.

- terrible - left me with 2 marks on the swingarm which i don't like at all. but with lots of experience.

Wheel nut: i remove it using an approximately 1.5 meters tube, with a second person holding the bike and front-rear brakes hard.

upper shock parts/linkage: lift the rear wheel and lower it again so that the wheel touches the ground again slightly, to remove all tensions from the shock, so that the 3 bolts are removed easily without parts moving.

now the hard part. Ducati as usual, decided to do something strange with the lower shock bolt. This is the actual bolt:



The problem is, that it stops at the threaded part on the aluminum swingarm and not at the bolt's head. With years passing, if you don't remove it and grease regularly, the bolt becomes one with the swingarm at the threads end.

I broke 2 very good hex tools trying to remove it. Soaked in all kinds of liquids as well for days etc... Then removed the whole swingarm (i was LUCKY that the swingarm-engine rod was not corroded as well - another story) and took it to the service. They were unable to remove it, advised me to go to the machine shop that he worked with to try and drill the hole.

So i went. As the bolt's head is around 10cm inside the swingarm, the machine shop told me its near impossible to drill it as he couldn't go down centered that far for the whole bolt's length. He advised me in turn to heat the whole swingarm spot to a red point and try to remove again with a tool......

Didn't like that. So there was another option, take it to my factory and a friend would help me out, we have some really good and experienced guys there at the machine shop. So they tried:



and this is the remaining part from the head of the bolt (just to depict how well centered and successful was the drill):



bonus pic:



so i bought another bolt and reassembled everything.

ANOTHER glitch - the bolt's thread size is actually different than what the manual says! It was reported as a thread size that i found it weird (also different than the top one that i had in hand), so i bought the lower bolt first (which was the same as the top in the end) and then drilled the old one, to re-pass the thread on the swingarm.

Now i applied as much grease as i could, but in 10 years i am pretty sure i will have to do that again.

Probably heat would have worked as well, but this swingarm has thin walls and i was unsure.

Good luck anyway!
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Old May 15th, 2018, 11:20 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzion View Post
i will share with you my experience, when i bought the linear link and wanted to change the shock spring for my weight last year. (also send the shock for maintenance). I posted it back at the time, here it is again.



- terrible - left me with 2 marks on the swingarm which i don't like at all. but with lots of experience.



Wheel nut: i remove it using an approximately 1.5 meters tube, with a second person holding the bike and front-rear brakes hard.



upper shock parts/linkage: lift the rear wheel and lower it again so that the wheel touches the ground again slightly, to remove all tensions from the shock, so that the 3 bolts are removed easily without parts moving.



now the hard part. Ducati as usual, decided to do something strange with the lower shock bolt. This is the actual bolt:







The problem is, that it stops at the threaded part on the aluminum swingarm and not at the bolt's head. With years passing, if you don't remove it and grease regularly, the bolt becomes one with the swingarm at the threads end.



I broke 2 very good hex tools trying to remove it. Soaked in all kinds of liquids as well for days etc... Then removed the whole swingarm (i was LUCKY that the swingarm-engine rod was not corroded as well - another story) and took it to the service. They were unable to remove it, advised me to go to the machine shop that he worked with to try and drill the hole.



So i went. As the bolt's head is around 10cm inside the swingarm, the machine shop told me its near impossible to drill it as he couldn't go down centered that far for the whole bolt's length. He advised me in turn to heat the whole swingarm spot to a red point and try to remove again with a tool......



Didn't like that. So there was another option, take it to my factory and a friend would help me out, we have some really good and experienced guys there at the machine shop. So they tried:







and this is the remaining part from the head of the bolt (just to depict how well centered and successful was the drill):







bonus pic:







so i bought another bolt and reassembled everything.



ANOTHER glitch - the bolt's thread size is actually different than what the manual says! It was reported as a thread size that i found it weird (also different than the top one that i had in hand), so i bought the lower bolt first (which was the same as the top in the end) and then drilled the old one, to re-pass the thread on the swingarm.



Now i applied as much grease as i could, but in 10 years i am pretty sure i will have to do that again.



Probably heat would have worked as well, but this swingarm has thin walls and i was unsure.



Good luck anyway!


If the heat doesnít move it itíll be going on the pedestal drill. Thanks for the info. If it all comes apart Iíll have a good shock absorber and a polished swing arm for sale.


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Old May 19th, 2018, 11:28 AM   #12
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Successfully removed the shock today 🙂

Wheel nut came off easily with an impact wrench. Lower suspension bolt was stubborn but was teased out with a good sized breaker bar.

Shock off to be rebuilt.

Thanks again for advice given.
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