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Old April 23rd, 2019, 09:23 AM   #1
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Ducati 1098 valve adjustment question

Hey all.
Tried to search for the info but didn't see anyone talking about this.

I got a couple question when doing the valve adjustment. If you look at my attached pic of the values on the work sheet. All measurements in mm's.

So first question is.
My opener shims have not worn down from the value written on the side yet I need to do an adjustment.
Eg. Shim says it's a 2.95 but yet it is .09mm out of spec when I measured. I would of assumed the Shim would of been worn down from the value that written on it. Eg. 2.95 -.09 = Shim worn down to 2.86mm.

My 2nd question is on my closing shims. The value written on the side of the Shim is smaller then what I have measured. Eg. 3.10mm = 3.20mm.

During readings I did notice a trend of Closers gain clearance and openers will lose clearance.

So pretty much your always increasing the size of the shims right? So if my openers are out of spec I add the difference of out of spec to my current Shim size and that's the size I need? Same for closers?

What size of closers/openers top out at? What's the max someone can Shim to? I'm assuming 3.50mm closer shim is pretty large. Maybe I'm almost due for new cylinder head?

And yes I am measuring everything correctly. I tripples checked. I have the right tools.

Any input greatly appreciated thx.
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Old April 26th, 2019, 10:29 AM   #2
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Old April 26th, 2019, 03:10 PM   #3
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The shims do not wear...not really...they're pretty darn hard...the discrepancy you noted when measuring and what's listed is likey that they were sanded down previously...the closers will slightly dish which means if you measure and calculate an exact replacement for .05mm clearance it's going to be too tight... probably around .03mm...factor in a c clip not quite squished and your coming danger close to .01mm

Don't get too caught up trying to make everything to the lowest spec or tightest clearance...your going to get the most bang from setting the cams timing correctly...

And as a generalization the valve recedes into the head...the closer clearance grows and the opener shrinks and theoretically they should move together but that isn't always observed

The range for opener and closers is pretty wide and not necessarily a gauge for valve work...if they seal you don't need to worry about it regardless what size shim it takes

Your closer shims will grow to tighten clearance and you generally put in smaller openers to keep with clearance...it helps to have equal tolerances on each intake or exhaust valves per cylinder for sake of laminar flow too...also using .13mm as a spec for the openers seems tight...when I ran that the engine hated anything below 4k rpm and was a bit loud.... brought it to .17-.19mm and it was like a different engine.
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Old April 29th, 2019, 03:20 PM   #4
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ok thanks guys.
I ordered the new shim sizes I needed from the dealer. Still waiting on them.

Thanks for the info.
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Old April 29th, 2019, 07:37 PM   #5
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ok thanks guys.
I ordered the new shim sizes I needed from the dealer. Still waiting on them.

Thanks for the info.
Big fan of emsduc.com for shims...a bit late but nonetheless
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Old May 1st, 2019, 05:09 PM   #6
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A bit of info about valve shims. Been in the business for 16 years. I have bought shims from the OEM supplier for Ducati and also have them made to my spec here in the US. Having measured literally over a hundred thousand of them over the years, I can say that sometimes the shims can be a bit over size or undersize (in length) by .020-.025 mm All shims are made on NC Turning Centers or Screw Machines. A bar is fed into the machine, the complex side is machined first, parted off, then grabbed by a second collet, and the top of the shim is parted off to the proper length (x.00,x.05 mm) The transfer of the part from the first collet to the second collet is not exactly the same each time as the collets wear out. So the length changes a bit. A good machinist knows this and will compensate over time to keep the shims more exact in size. Also Ducati laser etches the size of the shim on its side. Sometimes they screw up and put the wrong number on the shim. Also a 3.50 shim can typically range from 3.480 to 3.515 mm
The OEM shims changed in design and material around 2006. They went from a soft steel, Rc in the 40's to a Bearing type steel, Rc in the upper 50's. The outside of the closer shim changed a bit in that the chamfer starts further down from the top on the newer shims. Was told it was needed to clear the cams on the 1098 and later 4V bikes. I chose A2 tool steel for my shims, which are hardened to Rc in the low 60's. Both the bearing steel and A2 tool steel work adequately for the application. The A2 is a little more resistant to impact loads and is a bit harder. The older shims, pre 2006 would dish a bit where the half rings sit, but newer ones not as much. The inside of the closer shim is basically the same on both type of closer shims. When the size of a shim is out of tolerance, typically +.015,-.020 mm mm, the shims are lapped down to the nearest .05 mm size using a lapping machine. Tolerance on the ID and where the half rings sit are very tight, and only precision machines can be used to get good parts every time.

The newer shims really do not wear much over time. They operate in an oil bath so friction is at a minimum. They can and are reused all the time.

Measuring shims accurately is a challenge as typically the high end measuring tools (calipers) have an accuracy of .015mm. The chinese made ones can be much greater. The closer shim requires a measuring tool to determine its size. It also has tolerance of + or - .005 mm. I use a depth gage to measure the tools and the shims with an accuracy of .0015 mm. To give you and idea how small that is, a typical strand of hair is .07 mm (46 times the accuracy of the gage!)
Hope you found this info interesting.
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