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Old July 21st, 2019, 05:28 PM   #1
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No Pressure after clutch slave bleed

Hello,

My first post here. Looking for some help with getting my clutch slave cylinder working again after bleeding.

I wanted to install a PSR unit and tried following this youtube post-.

However, when I took the clutch slave cylinder off, I discovered it didn't match the PSR unit I ordered for a 1098. The one on the bike had a slot and the control rod had a pin in it that fits in the slot. Comparison picture attached and one showing the pin in the rod. When I contacted PSR support they stated that the one I was showing them was for a 2012 model (unknown if 848 or 1199 or what they were referencing) and recommended a different model for purchase.


In the interim, I wanted to put back the bike together. I put the existing slave cylinder back on and attempted to add fluid and bleed it as showing the youtube video and I can't seem to get the lever to produce any pressure. I checked out a couple of other videos and just can't seem to figure out why it isn't creating pressure when fluid is added and the lever is pumped. Fluid will travel a little but the lever never creates any pressure.


Never bled brakes before and only learning about working on my bikes mechanically now, so hoping for some help and hoping I'm just doing something stupid in the process as a newbie vs. having a bigger problem now. Thanks in advance.
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Old July 21st, 2019, 06:01 PM   #2
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Measure the depth of each slave hole (where the rod goes in) if they are the same to the mating surface, it should work.

As for bleeding the video only shows half the process, you start at the slave and end at the master ( on the lever).

Pump lever, hold it, losen nipple on slave, tighten , release lever. Keeep doing this until you have no bubbles.

Rinse and repeat on the master.

Once done you will pump the lever with every closed and it should firm up.
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Old July 24th, 2019, 01:19 PM   #3
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get a mityvac....easy brake & clutch fluid flush
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Old July 27th, 2019, 10:42 AM   #4
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Hey guys,

Thanks so much for the feedback and sorry for the late reply. I could not get back to working on her until today. I did use a mityvac to begin with. And thanks to Tchase, I did bleed the master. Today, I tried again and got pressure to build. I think I got all of the air out. However, when I started and ran her and tried to shift gears while sitting in place, the shifter was tough to move and not as smooth as before.

Then after a couple of minutes, there was a burning odor and some smoke and coming from right side near the clutch cover. So I immediately shut it down and figured I was burning the clutch.


I did not ride her at all. Figured I'd damage her or she'd seize or something and be unsafe. Thoughts?
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Old July 31st, 2019, 07:41 PM   #5
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I'd take the odor and smoke as signs the clutch was slipping, due apparently to a misadjustment that didn't manifest until the unit warmed up and something expanded. Given the immediate shutdown, it's unlikely you did any damage.

Bleeding the clutch, correctly or not, shouldn't cause it to slip, so the slave-cylinder remove/replace seems a potential culprit.
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Old July 31st, 2019, 08:53 PM   #6
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OP, do you have aftermarket levers? Are you positive they are installed correctly?
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Old August 3rd, 2019, 03:22 PM   #7
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Hi,

Thanks for the feedback. It does have aftermarket levers, but I do feel confident that they are installed correctly. I bought the bike used and put around 500 miles on it over 2 months or so and the levers felt normal but a bit stiff. I chalked that up to the fact that the bike had only around 7,500 miles on it when I bought it. And when I compare it to my other 1098s with 28,000 miles on it, it seemed like it was normal but more stiff due to less wear.

That's ultimately why I wanted to add the PSR clutch slave cylinder.
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Old August 3rd, 2019, 03:46 PM   #8
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When you go up in mm like the stock 25mm to an aftermarket like 28, 29mm etc. It will make the pull on the levers easier but it comes at a cost. You change the throw on the push rod, you can compensate this by adjusting the levers but there is a limitation.

Check out this thread and if you search there are more on this topic.

https://www.ducati.org/forums/1098-1...s/64806?page=3
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Old August 3rd, 2019, 03:49 PM   #9
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Btw I upgraded to a 28mm and even with fully adjustable levers my slipper clutch would not engage and disengage properly, I ended up going with a 26mm
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Old August 7th, 2019, 01:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tchase View Post
Btw I upgraded to a 28mm and even with fully adjustable levers my slipper clutch would not engage and disengage properly, I ended up going with a 26mm
I had that problem too when I went to a 30mm slave.
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Old August 11th, 2019, 06:56 PM   #11
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I put an aftermarket slave on 3 of my Ducs, having bled brakes hundreds of times on my tractors, cars, trucks I thought it would be simple but no matter how much I did the pump and bleed ritual I was never able to evacuate all the air until I hooked a vacuum pump on the slave bleeder. Once I did it with the vacuum pressure constantly applied it worked well.
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Old August 12th, 2019, 03:00 AM   #12
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I haven’t ever used a vacuum bleeder.

I gravity bleed everything.

I have made my own bleed bottle with a coke bottle and some tube.

Gravity bleed, nip off a few pumps and attach the bleed bottle, crack bleeder again with GTX tube on and let it sit a minute. Lock it off and it’s done.

What brake fluid is that you are using?
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Old August 12th, 2019, 11:17 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrek View Post
I havenít ever used a vacuum bleeder.

I gravity bleed everything.

I have made my own bleed bottle with a coke bottle and some tube.

Gravity bleed, nip off a few pumps and attach the bleed bottle, crack bleeder again with GTX tube on and let it sit a minute. Lock it off and itís done.

What brake fluid is that you are using?
Shrek is 100% right you don't need a pump although it does make things easier I use a harbor freight that hooks up to my compressor.

The problem is 2 things, he wasn't bleeding at the master, I believe the OP did this and got it to work, the other problem is his after market slave and he can bleed until the cows come home it won't fix it.
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Old August 13th, 2019, 05:46 PM   #14
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Hi There,

Thanks again for all of the feedback. Just to clarify a couple of points-
1. The bike came used with a clutch slave (visibly appeared stock) that was functioning fine. It was stiff but shifted smoothly.

2. I intended to install the PSR clutch slave and discovered that I ordered the correct model for a 1098 but what was actually installed on this bike was a 2012 control rod and slave according to PSR. The photo of both side by side is in the original post. The PSR is black.

3. So I simply went to reinstall the previously properly functioning slave and found that I could got not get pressure back in the system. Tchase tipped me on to bleeding the master (a duh moment for me).

4. After bleeding the master and fiddling with it some more, I was able to build pressure.

5. What I have found now is that it doesn't shift smoothly and when I ran it in place in gear, I got had a burning smell and smoke coming out near the clutch cover shortly after. So I shut it down.

6. I think I will try bleeding again. Perhaps there is still air in the line and that is causing the shifting problems? I hope to get back to it in a couple weeks and will repost the efforts.

Thank you all again!
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Old August 13th, 2019, 05:49 PM   #15
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Just to share exactly what PSR replied when I was concerned if I had ordered the wrong 1098 model--

The OEM clutch slave cylinder you have is not the right one for the year model of your bike. Ducati doesn't have that style of slave cylinder until 2012.

Attach is a picture of the clutch diagrams for 2008 Ducati 1098s.

The slave cylinder for 2012 style in your description, it would br part# 1132-0869
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