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Old August 23rd, 2019, 04:44 PM   #1
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2 year standing 1098s

Hi guys this is my first post. Looking forward to going through these posts about 1098 models.

My 2007 1098s has been standing for 2 years I've been away with work.

Fully serviced with belts before put into storage.

It's been stored indoors in insulated garage. It's plugged into optimate charger but it hasn't been started in two years.

Obviously I'll drain the fluid's and do an all round flush and filter change. Get the tires changed too.

So my question is should I change the belts before I start her up?

And also is there any other checks or precautions I should look at.

Thanks for the advice guys looking forward to becoming involved on the forum.
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Old August 23rd, 2019, 09:46 PM   #2
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If we had a nickel for every time this has been asked. It’s almost as debated as oil brands! If they look good and the bike was stored that way I’d say you are fine. As for long storage I believe I read in the manual it says to put a little oil down the spark plug hole prior to storage..

Good luck and welcome back!
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Old August 24th, 2019, 03:59 AM   #3
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Yep I’d fog the cylinders with wd40, put in 6th and push it to cycle it over build some oil pressure because there is nothing anywhere but the sump.
Mi wouldn’t do the belts again but I would check for wasp nests or rat homes.
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Old August 24th, 2019, 05:35 AM   #4
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Thanks for the advice guys. I've heard of fogging the cylinder's with wd40 so I might look into this. I have the manual at home with the bike so I'll give it a read through before starting.

But in essence I just remove the plugs spray in a little wd and then pop her in 6th and push around the block? Leaving the plugs out obviously as I push around.

Thanks again guys. I've heard of guys busting rings and corroded cylinder walls after long sits. I really wanted to avoid that.

Thanks again for the greetings too.
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Old August 24th, 2019, 06:19 AM   #5
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If you have that going on in there this won’t help.
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Old August 24th, 2019, 02:46 PM   #6
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Yes I don't think that is going on she is fully serviced throughout her life never had an issue with performance or anything like that. I was only away with work for 6 months but it got pushed out. Hopefully all will be good! 😅
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Old August 28th, 2019, 02:24 PM   #7
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If you can put the rear on a stand you don't have to push it around the block Like Shrek said drop it into 6 gear and rotate the wheel so the pistons / cranks make a few full rotations. And yes you remove the spark plug and put the lube in. I wouldn't use WD (no issues with it) I would use the oil that the bike is using. But Shrek has a point the WD will probably spread better.
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Old August 28th, 2019, 06:58 PM   #8
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Good advice from all here, however keep in mind the cylinders in these bikes are Nacasil plated and this type of coating will not rust or corrode. Likewise the valves are stainless steel and the seats are hardened so I would definitely not be concerned about rust. Belts should be fine but I would still remove the covers and do a visual for cracking or 'sticking' to the pulleys. I have seen teeth stuck to the pulleys and torn off after long periods of being stored without the engine being rotated. Engine Oil added directly into the cylinder gets behind the rings and immediately turns to carbon when the engine is fired, this is not a good thing. I'm with Shrek on the WD40 but if you feel you must use oil, use a dedicated upper cylinder oil such as flashlube, Redex or Moreys.

Hi Fellas!
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Old August 28th, 2019, 07:14 PM   #9
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Good advice from all here, however keep in mind the cylinders in these bikes are Nacasil plated and this type of coating will not rust or corrode. Likewise the valves are stainless steel and the seats are hardened so I would definitely not be concerned about rust. Belts should be fine but I would still remove the covers and do a visual for cracking or 'sticking' to the pulleys. I have seen teeth stuck to the pulleys and torn off after long periods of being stored without the engine being rotated. Engine Oil added directly into the cylinder gets behind the rings and immediately turns to carbon when the engine is fired, this is not a good thing. I'm with Shrek on the WD40 but if you feel you must use oil, use a dedicated upper cylinder oil such as flashlube, Redex or Moreys.

Hi Fellas!
Hey El thanks for the carbon comment. Question, does Ducati have it wrong in the manual, or is it that if you put the oil down the cylinder ďpriorĒ to storage itís run itís course so the carbon build up isnít a problem?
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Old August 28th, 2019, 07:35 PM   #10
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Hey El thanks for the carbon comment. Question, does Ducati have it wrong in the manual, or is it that if you put the oil down the cylinder ďpriorĒ to storage itís run itís course so the carbon build up isnít a problem?
Over a very long period of time the oil added prior to storage will seep past the rings and only leave a minute protective film which is not a significant problem. It's viable to do this but engine oil is still not the best choice to leave in the combustion chamber of a cylinder. Even 2 stroke oil diluted with fuel is better because it will still provide a protective film, but is formulated to burn off at much lower temps without leaving behind the hardened carbon deposits.
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Old August 28th, 2019, 07:54 PM   #11
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Well I’ll add another purpose for my WD40 arsenal thanks El and Shrek!
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Old August 31st, 2019, 04:14 AM   #12
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Hey Elt..

Still working on coming to visit, just broke at moment, drove my wrx for the first time in 12 months today.. to a mates place to store while I get a mezzanine built in my shed.

I plan to bring you 2 celica heads to build ha ha. Not raced that in 12 months either.

Oh heck on topic, I forgot about the rubber sticking to pulleys, especially the bottom small one... remove the belts before turning it over to check you donít leave anything behind, keep the pulleys clean
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