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Old September 1st, 2019, 03:14 PM   #16
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The fuel pump is priming, that's actually the first thing the dealer had me check. I can clearly hear it with the tank cap open.
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Old September 1st, 2019, 04:11 PM   #17
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Here is the best video I can get. I moved the voltage regulator to try and get a better idea of where the clicking is coming from. I hit the ignition multiple times in this video, there is one click every time i hit it.


https://youtu.be/BdOCDwI6mLk
Did you check starter solenoid? It is mounted to the battery box.
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Old September 1st, 2019, 04:21 PM   #18
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Did you check starter solenoid? It is mounted to the battery box.

Mind explaining how? I'm pretty handy but wouldn't know how.
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Old September 1st, 2019, 05:30 PM   #19
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Mind explaining how? I'm pretty handy but wouldn't know how.
Make sure all the wires are secured at the solenoid terminals. If they are, bypass relay and see if the starter will crank. The solenoid is like high amperage relay, once it is energized it allows current to flow to the starter. If you still hear the clicking noise after bypassing solenoid, then you might have a bad starter.

Disregard that this video is for the Ford F150, the starter solenoid on Ducati works the same and can be troubleshoot in the same manner.


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Old September 1st, 2019, 05:33 PM   #20
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Just make sure the bike is in neutral before bypassing solenoid!
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Old September 2nd, 2019, 08:56 AM   #21
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Thanks! I'll give this a try and see if it helps. Definitely sounds like a starter issue right now but that just adds to the issue overall. Still no idea why the bike was stalling like that in the first place.
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Old September 2nd, 2019, 10:51 AM   #22
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You likely have two separate problems. 2007 is the first year of the 1098 and has a long list of issues including stalling. ECU reflash might help. Ground connections and positive main cable connections are the first things to check as has already been pointed out. Also kill switch corrosion, clutch switch, kickstand switch.
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Old September 3rd, 2019, 03:14 PM   #23
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Ok, I bypassed the starter solenoid and nothing but the same click which is coming from that solenoid. Does that automatically mean the starter is bad or could it still be something else?
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Old September 3rd, 2019, 03:35 PM   #24
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Check the connection to the starter motor. If water gets into the rubber boot covering the connection you'll get corrosion.
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Old September 3rd, 2019, 03:44 PM   #25
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Check the connection to the starter motor. If water gets into the rubber boot covering the connection you'll get corrosion.

So I'm guessing a melted boot and wire is a bad thing? LMAO! Can't believe it took me this long to find that. Guess I'll order the HICAP like I was about to anyway.
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Old September 3rd, 2019, 06:59 PM   #26
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The basic issue here is that the wiring to the battery and associated starter motor wiring have to carry a very high current (up to 200 amps) at startup.

Over time, the wires and terminal connections experience corrosion that increases electrical resistance and reduces the current available to be delivered to the starter motor as well as to lighting, ignition and other onboard electrical devices.

The engine becoming slower to start is often first blamed on a weak battery. When a new battery fails to rejuvenate startup, a disassembly and cleaning of the starter circuit and battery terminals will often bring some improvement.

The rate of corrosion depends on the presence of moisture and salt in the air. Dry desert storage is the solution for unused aircraft, for example.

Eventually, the corrosion in the wire strands and the wire-terminal connection needs to be addressed.

Some owners will make their own wiring, but the difficulty in creating a good wire-terminal crimp connection usually results in a less permanent fix than using custom kits from manufacturers such as Motolectric (that I highly recommend).

The Owners Manual recommends to turn the starter for 5 seconds with a 10 second wait in between. If you crank it for a longer period, and do so several times in a row without letting the motor and wiring cool down, you're going to get overheated wires, even if all of your connections are good. When the wires get hot enough the insulation will start smoking.

If the wire connections are loose or corroded they are an additional source of higher resistance and heat. If a connection has a small resistance of say 1/2 ohm, a typical starting current of 45 amps generates over 1,000 watts of heat, more than a toaster.
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Old September 3rd, 2019, 08:48 PM   #27
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So I'm guessing a melted boot and wire is a bad thing? LMAO! Can't believe it took me this long to find that. Guess I'll order the HICAP like I was about to anyway.
Make sure that your negative battery cable is not loose where it mounts to the engine case and there is no corrosion there. Poorly grounded battery will make all sort of electrical nightmares including melted wires. Also, do a voltage drop test just to make sure it is bad cable and not something else that is casing it to melt.
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Old September 5th, 2019, 03:50 AM   #28
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One thing people don’t think about is electrons flow neg to pos! So the grounds or earths are as important as positive connections. They equally share the same voltage & current in any circuit. I have a 07’ 1098 and was curious how this was going to end. Glad you found the problem.
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Old September 13th, 2019, 12:56 PM   #29
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So here's an update. I finally got my new starter and HICAP wires. Neither did the trick. The starter solenoid is what is making the clicking noise but I can't find one anywhere. Apparently that part number is discontinued. Anyone have any ideas on where to get one?
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Old September 13th, 2019, 01:03 PM   #30
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Did you also check the ground to your ecu?

Part number solenoid: 39740031B

Last edited by Dutch848; September 13th, 2019 at 01:17 PM.
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