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Old November 19th, 2019, 11:40 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Svensken View Post
For those of you with 2007s - There are some characteristics that are specific:
The cams are not 'bad', they are different and the locking tool for setting timing can't be used.
ECU maps can be used to mask the stalling issue. Best fix is degree the cams.
Main bearings were installed with excessive preload. The engines are too tight and fail.
Some pistons were installed improperly.
Also - early ones had a thinner rear axle so the nut torque should be 200Nm not 230 Nm.

There is so much to read on the stalling issues and not all apply to every bike.

The following issues apply to all 1x98/848:
TPS sensors - they fail, they need reset, they are annoying...
Voltage regulators cause all sorts of issues - replace with Mosfet
Kickstand, clutch, engine off switches all can get corroded and cause stalls
Throttle body links get wear causing uneven opening - perform throttle sync (and TPS reset after)
Idle bypass screws are the base idle mixture screws - have someone knowledgeable set them up
Improper warmup. These bikes should not be ridden cold. It upsets the way the program gets through the enrichment cycle.
Incomplete warmup. If you start it, let it warm up completely or it will be hard to start next time.
Intake valve deposits cause lean running cold. Only fix is mechanical cleaning of the valves.
Fuel hose pops off the fuel filter - replace the filter and install new hose clamps
Rod bolts stretch causing rod bearing failure. Replace before they break...
Any run time on it's side will cause oil starvation and eventual bearing failure. Be warned when it comes to used bikes...

Also clutch drag can cause stalling at intersections.

Then there is the whole starter setup... The battery, cables, and basic tuneup need to be in good shape to keep from overloading the starter motor and sprag. If you replace the sprag spring in time, the rest of the components will hold up better.

Probably lots more issues that I've forgotten. Now you are aware and can spend hours reading through what people have found before (which is what I did)
thats some great gathered up info. thanks i m saving it for future reference.
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Old November 20th, 2019, 04:26 PM   #17
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My brother has a 2007 1098 and it too has intermittent stalling issues. There’s a ton of reasons why that could be happening.

Since your already so invested in the bike and relatively close by I would take it to Donnie at Duc Pond Motorsports in Winchester, Va. He’s the owner, a certified Ducati Master mechanic and ex Ducati racer. He also seems to have a seemingly unlimited wealth of knowledge about all Ducatis. Beyond basic maintenance he builds custom race bikes and is a regular at all the local track events. If he can’t fix it or at least find the problem then who knows.

I‘m not affiliated with him/Duc Pond in any way other than its where I take my 899 for its yearly checkup and had it mapped. Also a great place to swing by and have a good conversation.

Seriously check them out.
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Old November 20th, 2019, 11:35 PM   #18
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You were robbed by incompetent mechanics. They threw parts at it to resolve an issue instead of isolating the issue. I’ve seen this done time and time again at various dealerships, when all it takes is a competent staff.
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Old November 21st, 2019, 12:20 AM   #19
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OP. It may be related to the charcoal canister. Tons of documented hard starting and stall at idle issues there. I think most dealers won’t touch it but you could try removing it and see if that helps.
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Old November 21st, 2019, 11:53 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by TacoDiego View Post
OP. It may be related to the charcoal canister. Tons of documented hard starting and stall at idle issues there. I think most dealers won’t touch it but you could try removing it and see if that helps.
Thanks for the reminder about the carbon canister. I added that to the list of issues
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Old December 17th, 2019, 10:48 AM   #21
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sure hope there's a happy ending here somewhere, gosh...
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Old December 17th, 2019, 04:07 PM   #22
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Again I feel I should balance some of the experiences documented here with my (rather better!) experience with my 2007 1098s. After 93,000 kms (55.000 mi) I have had almost none of the problems mentioned.
Mine HAS stalled - maybe half a dozen times in all those years/miles, but that is very rare. Usually when it hadn't had a decent run out of town. (And always started back up).
But yes - 'dialling' the cam timing, checking the TPS function and (last) adjusting the air screws has been all I did. (Mine has had the Termi exhaust and ECU from 1,000 kms). And keep it serviced, valve clearances set etc.
The only problems I have had have been 1. the crankcase breather reed valve (replaced FOC) and three radiators (also all replaced FOC). My fuel indicating 'thermistor' also failed around 90,000. A nuisance.
But I have had NO issues with the rest of the items listed by those less fortunate. No starter issues, and nothing replaced in the starting area. Except batteries. And yes - I am a 'believer' in Shorai batteries, and got almost 6 x years out of my first one.
I went through the engine at 76,000, and replaced very little. Big-end shells (and bolts!) and pistons and rings. It only needed rings but there was a parts issue - I won't repeat that tale. The main bearings were fine - I didn't even have to alter the preload shimming.
I guess the point I am making is that (as with most forums) we mainly hear from those who have problems. Which is a large part of the function of a forum, obviously. I am just balancing that with the story of a 2007 (bought August, not the very early one with the thinner rear axle) 1098 which has been magnificent, for over 12 years now. And yes, it does get belted, having done many track days at Phillip Island in that period. Its rev-limiter light has flickered many a time.
And I still love it. So don't give up would be my tip. There are people who know how to keep these things good. I have the advantage of having owned and worked on Ducatis since 1974, which seems to have helped me understand how to own one of these, and get the best out of it.
But they are not as finicky or fragile as the impression created by some who have had serial problems (Martin C where are you?). They are a fantastic machine if cared for correctly. And no, that doesn't mean I am constantly fiddling with it.
Quite the contrary - I am old and do the bare minimum these days! Just ride it. Oil the chain and tyre pressures.
I haven't done my valve clearances for over 30,000 now (recommended 12,000) but it still runs perfectly. But that is probably due to having the valve seats professionally 'triple-cut' years ago when I ported it, and resetting them a second time since they 'settled'.
I hope you get yours sorted and get to enjoy a special machine.


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Old January 6th, 2020, 07:58 PM   #23
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My Ducati has also been very reliable. I attribute much of this to replacing known failure items proactively and following best practices with maintenance and repairs. When my voltage Reg/Rec failed, I already had a MosFet one sitting at home at the ready.
I just replaced my system relays on spec. Bike ran fine but was doing other stuff so figured it was time. They were corroded to shit!
I rebuilt my engine 2 years ago at 42000 km. Pistons and rings were fine but rod bearings were showing wear and I upgraded to the R mains while at it.

I am now finally degreeing my cams! I can't believe I didn't think to do it when I was rebuilding the motor. So the motor is back out of the bike on the bench. First quick check of the horizontal intake cam is 112.5 degrees CL. I am going to shoot for 105/109 as BikeBoy did.
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Old January 14th, 2020, 08:43 PM   #24
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My 1098 is an early 2007 (in case you hadn't figured that out...). Engine is going back in now so am very interested to see how different it runs with the cams dialled in. The slots in the ends of the cams are visibly changed from their original position. I anticipate having to make some tuning changes to really take advantage of the difference in cam timing. I'll update when it's running and set up.
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Old January 15th, 2020, 01:14 PM   #25
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7M3 cam timing

If you look closely, you can see that the intake cams had to be turned quite a bit CCW to get the centreline to 105 degrees. The exhaust cams had to be turned CW (but not as much) to get to 109 degrees. The lines that make the 'tops' of the upside down Ts used to be perfectly straight across at TDC
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Last edited by Svensken; January 26th, 2020 at 03:19 PM.
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Old January 20th, 2020, 08:11 PM   #26
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Ok, bike is back together and running.

If you have a 2007 1098, spend the time/money to get your cams dialled in. Mine ran fine before but runs even better now. It does crank harder when starting, so all your starter 'stuff' needs to be good. The harder crank is due to more cranking compression (as per BikeBoy's site - I didn't actually check). I did have to turn the trimmer down from 22 to 10 as it was running too rich after. It was common to turn the trimmer up on the 2007s to cover up for the stalling caused by the cam timing.
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Last edited by Svensken; March 9th, 2020 at 08:55 PM.
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