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Old April 25th, 2020, 04:40 PM   #1
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1098 Coolant Hoses

I searched and searched and didn't see anything on this topic. If it's here then please forgive me and direct me to the thread.


I am desperately trying everything possible to cool down my 1098. Since I bought it in June 2019, I've changed a ton of parts, wires, ceramic coated the exhaust, etc. I live in NY and sometimes get caught in traffic (line splitting is frowned upon).


I am about to change the hoses to SAMCO and flush and change the coolant.


My question is, would the thermostat bypass hoses keep the bike cooler than leaving the thermostat in?
I know nothing about cooling systems so no need to be too sarcastic.
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Old May 4th, 2020, 04:41 PM   #2
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I would think it would take longer to warm up but once it's up to temperature I'm not sure there would be a whole lot of difference from a fully open thermostat. I'm just guessing. I have the exact opposite problem with my 1098. It's track only and it runs way too cold. I'm going to try an aftermarket temp sensor.
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Old May 5th, 2020, 09:37 AM   #3
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The thermostat is there to allow the engine to warm up quickly in a stable manner keeping the water flowing around the engine first until 80 deg C or so, then the thermostat opens allowing the water to full flowing through the radiators. No thermostat means full flow through the radiator from the start meaning it takes a longer warm up time.

But everyone is literally contradicting each other if it is better or worse for your engine, so I won't go there.

How about adding a manual switch for your radiator ventilators. Or lower the temperature trigger for when they automatically switch on.
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Old May 6th, 2020, 04:41 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Slickracer34 View Post
I would think it would take longer to warm up but once it's up to temperature I'm not sure there would be a whole lot of difference from a fully open thermostat. I'm just guessing. I have the exact opposite problem with my 1098. It's track only and it runs way too cold. I'm going to try an aftermarket temp sensor.
You could do like they use to do on 125 & 250 GP bikes and use gaff tape on your rad to block part off to adjust temp.
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Old May 6th, 2020, 05:01 PM   #5
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A larger radiator perhaps is my only suggestion.
Of course a bike like that is not meant to Be stuck in traffic and no changes could be made for it to run cooler in those situations.
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Old May 7th, 2020, 02:43 AM   #6
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I would think it would take longer to warm up but once it's up to temperature I'm not sure there would be a whole lot of difference from a fully open thermostat. I'm just guessing. I have the exact opposite problem with my 1098. It's track only and it runs way too cold. I'm going to try an aftermarket temp sensor.
Going way back there was an issue with the temp sensor housings on very early bikes and they were re-designed. My 07 Tricolore did the same thing as yours and ran too cold. The temp sensor housing shrouds the end of the sensor too much, trapping air and preventing water flow around the sensor itself. I just ground out the area around the sensor inside with a die grinder and the problem was solved. The coolant still gets to full temperature, but the shrouded sensor cannot read it accurately. On mine it had a huge effect on the mapping and fuel consumption as it spent too much time on the richer cold map prior to opening up around the sensor.

I am one of the people in favour of using thermostats to bring the engine to temperature as quickly as possible. Cold engines wear rapidly.
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Last edited by EL Twin; May 7th, 2020 at 02:46 AM.
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Old May 7th, 2020, 04:38 PM   #7
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Going way back there was an issue with the temp sensor housings on very early bikes and they were re-designed. My 07 Tricolore did the same thing as yours and ran too cold. The temp sensor housing shrouds the end of the sensor too much, trapping air and preventing water flow around the sensor itself. I just ground out the area around the sensor inside with a die grinder and the problem was solved. The coolant still gets to full temperature, but the shrouded sensor cannot read it accurately. On mine it had a huge effect on the mapping and fuel consumption as it spent too much time on the richer cold map prior to opening up around the sensor.

I am one of the people in favour of using thermostats to bring the engine to temperature as quickly as possible. Cold engines wear rapidly.
I will definitely check that but mine is an 08. I read the Bosch temp sensor is longer and will give a more accurate reading. Even on hot days it will only hit 72C at the most. On cooler days it's in the high 60's. In the pits it seems to warm up fine but once I get on the track the temp drops rapidly.
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Old May 12th, 2020, 03:55 PM   #8
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I looked into it and no, removing the thermostat won't really help. I see a bunch of suggestions on how to warm up the bike. Mine will freely go from cold to 210 degrees F from an idle. When riding if I go anywhere below 30mph I can actually watch the temp gauge start to rise. Keep in mind, this was happening in April in NY, when the hottest air temp was about 60F. It regularly gets to 85-100 during the summer so I don't think that's going to help anything. The radiator has no damage, new hoses, and fresh Engine Ice after a complete flush. None of that helped the temps at all.
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Old May 13th, 2020, 03:31 PM   #9
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Does your bike overheat? I take it both fans are working, 210 pretty normal, it should come down when moving.


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Old May 14th, 2020, 04:50 PM   #10
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Does your bike overheat? I take it both fans are working, 210 pretty normal, it should come down when moving.


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The fans don't kick on till about 220F. Before that happens I have issues with it. My next step is putting the fans on a switch as someone mentioned.
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Old May 14th, 2020, 06:19 PM   #11
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Do you have air trapped in the system?
How do you refill?

Here’s a clever way of doing it - https://www.ducati.org/forums/how-to...-easy-way.html
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