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Old October 13th, 2009, 07:43 PM   #31
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Tru nuff CAT
TW, I kept the ride height the same, but never had much of a problem at lights n' manoeuvring .. it is nicely balanced ( way nicer then a fireblade or R1 at low speed anyway) , but I can only touch tarmac with my toes....
.....my main concern now is exiting highspeed corners under heavy throttle...I cant get power down as effectively in that situation as the fat prix.
Ah you win some, you lose some...
kinda wish I had tittys, though....nicely drawing my weight forward....then again, I'd probably never go racing, just stay at home and play with them all day.
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Old August 21st, 2011, 06:38 PM   #32
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Iam about the same weight 120lbs. And i also find that on longer sweeper corners my front end feel light/unstable. I had 75nm spring in rear put in and 8.5nm and 8.0nm spring put in which was recommended by dan kyle. can't seam to get that light feeling away. Has anyone else with this weight figured it out?
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Old August 21st, 2011, 07:24 PM   #33
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I changed to reverse shift. That way I can keep my helmet in the 'screne and upper body forward, and still change gears easily.
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Old August 21st, 2011, 09:56 PM   #34
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Iam about the same weight 120lbs. And i also find that on longer sweeper corners my front end feel light/unstable. I had 75nm spring in rear put in and 8.5nm and 8.0nm spring put in which was recommended by dan kyle. can't seam to get that light feeling away. Has anyone else with this weight figured it out?

Might want to talk to Rossi.. Seems he's having the same issues..

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Old August 22nd, 2011, 01:22 PM   #35
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Iam about the same weight 120lbs. And i also find that on longer sweeper corners my front end feel light/unstable. I had 75nm spring in rear put in and 8.5nm and 8.0nm spring put in which was recommended by dan kyle. can't seam to get that light feeling away. Has anyone else with this weight figured it out?

How many MM of rider sag do you have? Get this right and your issues will probably go away. You might also not have enough rebound damping in the front but more than likely its your rider sag. Set the front and rear to 40mm.
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Old August 22nd, 2011, 06:56 PM   #36
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I have set sag.
Front: free sag 25mm and rider sag 34mm
Rear: free sag 14mm and rider sag 28mm
I also tried two click firmer on rebound dampening and it didn't really feel much of a change
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Old August 22nd, 2011, 09:33 PM   #37
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this thread i can relate to very very well.

im no suspension expert. i weigh 48kg.
with any superbike, my suspension needs to be 'tweaked'. when i first bought my 1198s, my tech set up rider sag, compression, rebound, damping and adjusted my rear suspension (lowered it to 30mm - if memory serves..)
+'s:
bike felt softer overall; specifically softened road imperfections and bumps.
bike became more straight (as opposed to stock; front lower than rear).
with a little more steering effort than i would need to put when stock, cornering improved slightly.

-'s:
more input needed to steer
less road feedback (vague)
front became lighter

.....
i then went back to my tech to adjust my bike to a track setup. he raised the forks so the front height would be lowered to 27mm.

in all honesty, the bike has transformed; it feels much more focused in corners and at speed this way. the problem is, it doesn't "glide" anymore. i can't "think of where i want to go... and find the bike telepathically taking me there" anymore

i drive spiritedly on certain roads. i haven't done a track day just yet. again, i weigh 48kg. all in all, the best setup for me was the STOCK setup!

the most thing i loved - and now miss - about my bike, was its telepathy. although it may be capable of producing faster lap times this way... i have to use too much force to change direction.

-going back to stock "dream" setup tomorrow
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Old August 23rd, 2011, 06:19 AM   #38
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My set up is basically stock damping but with springs put in for my weight then had sag set so shouldn't this be ideal?
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Old August 23rd, 2011, 12:59 PM   #39
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I have set sag.
Front: free sag 25mm and rider sag 34mm
Rear: free sag 14mm and rider sag 28mm
I also tried two click firmer on rebound dampening and it didn't really feel much of a change

Why are you making the back end higher? Were you having issues driving out of a corner? Not sure which duc you have but this is what the ride height adjuster is for. As far as rider sag:

ON THE STREET: 40MM front and rear
ON THE TRACK: 30-35mm front and rear (depending on how hard you brake)

Part of the reason its stiffer on the track is because you will be doing HEAVY braking and trail braking...etc. This will load the suspension and you don't want to bottom out. On the street you are not going to brake near as hard thus its better to run a softer setting so you can properly load the suspension and be "stuck" to the pavement. Beyond this, you need to understand how to set rebound and how to tell if it set right by visually testing it off the bike.

You should be off the bike, push down hard on the triple tree and watch the forks come up (make sure you are not weighting the triple while the forks are rebounding). They should compress down, come up and stop perfectly. If its "bouncing" a few times when it comes up then you dont have enough rebound. If it doesn't bounce at all then perhaps you need less rebound.

Same for rear but its harder to see.

If all this is correct then perhaps you don't have enough compression damping in the rear causing your back to squat.
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Old August 23rd, 2011, 04:48 PM   #40
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I just went with the recommendation kyle posted and tried getting as close to it as I can. It looks like his recommendation the rear has about 10mm less than the front.
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Old August 24th, 2011, 12:01 PM   #41
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I just went with the recommendation kyle posted and tried getting as close to it as I can. It looks like his recommendation the rear has about 10mm less than the front.

Rider sag is what is most important. You are running race settings and if you are riding on the street then this is why your bike is not handling like you want.

Most people that know anything about suspension are racers or were. They set everything to race settings even on the street. This is mostly because they are not aware that the suspension should be softer on the street. An easy example is when it rains during a MotoGP race...they guys pull the bike into the garage to soften up the suspension (and change tires) because the riders will not be pushing the bike hard enough for the suspension to work properly at the current dry race settings.
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Old August 24th, 2011, 02:17 PM   #42
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Cool thanks makes sense too. I do track days here and there what would you recommend i set it to? I have one this sunday actually. Should I record my current settings for preload and just set them there when i have a track day?
Thanks for the info
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Old August 25th, 2011, 01:23 PM   #43
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Cool thanks makes sense too. I do track days here and there what would you recommend i set it to? I have one this sunday actually. Should I record my current settings for preload and just set them there when i have a track day?
Thanks for the info

It all boils down to how fast you are and how hard you are on the brakes.

If you are intermediate I would go with 35mm of sag front and rear. If you are advanced you can try somewhere between 25-35mm front and rear.

The only real reason to have different sag settings for front and rear would be if your are having turn in or exit issues (and really you should be using ride height adjusters or raising/lowering your forks instead). If the bike is driving out wide then raise the rear up a few mm.

You want the front and rear suspension to work together up and down together, compress and rebound...together.
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Old August 30th, 2011, 09:19 PM   #44
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ok from my track dayi found that iam less than a 1cm from bottoming my front forks. I read a post from another thread saying that if u have greater than 10mm static sag that means i need a lighter spring is this true? cause it kinda confuses me since i have 25mm static in the front and if i went even lighter spring won't i just bottom out?
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Old August 31st, 2011, 02:19 PM   #45
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ok from my track dayi found that iam less than a 1cm from bottoming my front forks. I read a post from another thread saying that if u have greater than 10mm static sag that means i need a lighter spring is this true? cause it kinda confuses me since i have 25mm static in the front and if i went even lighter spring won't i just bottom out?

Its varies between suspension vendors. I believe my ohlins manual says that 25mm is normal for static sag on the front. I'd say, if you can set the desired preload without the adjuster being all the way in or out then it should be ok. Ideally they like to hit the desired rider sag setting when turning in your preload adjusters 50%. This way they have room to soften or stiffen.
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