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Old September 14th, 2010, 01:31 PM   #1
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Altering Bar/Clip Ons position

Chaps,

Posted this in the 848 forum - no responses. Any of you altered the position of your clip ons (for track etc)?

Keep meaning to alter my setup on the 848 to flatten out the bar angle (yes, I will remember to reset the bump stops too so I don't crush my pinkies!).

On first look tonight, there are clearly locking pins that lock the clip ons in place and stop you easily rotating them on the fork - without disassembing the entire crown assembly to see where they are - anyone know where they are? Are they slotted into anything? Can they be adjusted without buying aftermarket clip ons?

Do I need to take the fork stem bolt out (if so with what? Special tool no doubt!)?

If someone could save me two hours work to have a look that would be great - then I can just order what I need BEFORE I start the job (now there would be a first!!!!).

Pics would be even more helpful, should you have any!

Thanks,

ChamMTB
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Old September 14th, 2010, 02:42 PM   #2
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If you'd like to make the stock clip ons flatter or with less angle without purchasing after market clip ons, try swapping right for left. All you need to do is remove the top triple clamp and swap the right clip on bracket with the left and viceversa. You would need to lift the bike from the bottom triple clamp to make it easier to remove the top triple clamp and may need to remove the steering stem nut (the one in the middle of the top triple clamp) but I cant remember if it's necessary. You need a special tool do remove it.
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Old September 14th, 2010, 03:32 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinman View Post
You would need to lift the bike from the bottom triple clamp to make it easier to remove the top triple clamp and may need to remove the steering stem nut (the one in the middle of the top triple clamp) but I cant remember if it's necessary. You need a special tool do remove it.
You don't remove the steering stem nut to remove the top triple clamp. You only loosen the 3 pinch bolts (one for each fork leg and one for the steering stem nut) and then it is just a matter of coaxing it off. Really easy to do and just takes a few min. to accomplish.
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Old September 14th, 2010, 04:24 PM   #4
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Thanks. Will coax off the top triple clamp then and try altering them to make them slightly flatter. If I need to swap the clip ons then that's fine, or I could buy some aftermarket ones, but I will be able to see and tweak them easily enough if that top triple comes off without me needing a special tool to remove the stem nut.

Thanks.
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Old September 14th, 2010, 04:31 PM   #5
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Just to elaborate a little - the stem nut is screwed into the stem which is screwed (or pressed depending on the model) into the lower triple. The only reason the stem nut and top triple are connected at all is the pinch bolt clamping the top triple around the stem nut. Once you remove the pinch bolt there and one for each fork leg it is free to remove completely.
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Old September 15th, 2010, 05:15 AM   #6
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The point being made earlier may not have been totally clear - that is, that the weight needs to be taken off the front-end before the top yoke is removed. So you need to take the fairing sides off, and support the engine, unless you have a stand that supports under the lower yoke.
As to the handlebar locating pins - they usually stay with the yoke, rather than the handlebar base. They can be twisted out with pliers. They are a spring steel engineer's roll pin. (ie. they expand into the hole under spring tension). If you rotate them the right way, that compresses rather than expands them, they come out fairly easily. So try twisting both directions - one direction will release easier than the other.
Once they are out, you will find a fairly limited range of adjustment of handlebar position before things start to foul on full lock. You might need to adjust the lock-stops on the lower yoke to make things work with your preferred handlebar position.
You will also find it might take a couple of goes to make the 'bars even. That's why the factory fits the locating pins.
Also to serve as a 'telltale' if the bike has fallen over..
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Old September 15th, 2010, 02:33 PM   #7
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Thanks - that's really helpful. I will make sure I use an under the headstock stand then rather than the normal front stand.

I know that the range of adjustment won't be huge, and I will also alter the lower lock stops so that I don't crush my hands on the fairing at full lock, and this will reduce the lock a bit - but the other bike I have is a Desmo - and that has wonderfully flat bars. They are massively more comfortable and far better leverage than on the 848 and I am just looking to make it a bit flatter on the 848 having become used to the other ride position.

I bet getting them "identical" on both sides will take a bit of precise measurement, but there you go. I presumed that the pins would be from the clip on mount into the lower of the upper fork crown, so glad to know they are. some others are impossible to move as they are threaded at an angle, which is then cut into the top of either the fork upper or similar. Then you are stuffed if you want to alter them!

Generally the ride position on the Desmo is longer, more front end biassed, wider and flatter bars and the footpegs are lower and slightly further back than on the 848 (corse rearsets fitted on lowest rearmost setting). Frankly it's a much better ride position for me, so I am going to tweak the 848 to close the gap. Might also find a way to flatten the seat angle a bit too so that every bump doesn't bounce me forwards into the back of the tank on the 848 as the seat is angled so far downwards (I know if looks nice, but form/function.....).

Last edited by ChamMTB; September 15th, 2010 at 02:35 PM.
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Old September 16th, 2010, 06:24 AM   #8
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No worries. Happy to help.
If by "Desmo" you mean a Desmosedici, I suspect it will take more than a change of handlebar position to make the 848 feel comparable to that machine...
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