Iridium Spark Plugs Anyone? - Page 2 - ducati.org forum | the home for ducati owners and enthusiasts

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Old July 15th, 2011, 12:57 PM   #16
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Update used NGK CR10EIX basically stock heat range iridium and WOW what a difference in idle quality and throttle response...........at idle. I'll be able to ride soon.
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Old August 1st, 2016, 08:35 PM   #17
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Does anyone have long term use feedback on the Denso Iridium IU27s? Good or Bad?

In real world use, how do they make your bike perform differently after installed and over time?

Any problems crop up over time with their use (eg: prematurely deteriorating coils or leads, problems associated with the hotter heat range?)

How many kilometers did they last in real world use?

Would you replace the stock NGK's with Iridiums again?
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Old April 15th, 2018, 08:02 AM   #18
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this is an old thread but I've been reading as much as I can about this bike(1098 new to me) and I just put the cr9eix plugs in the bike and they seem to be running great so far, I'll keep up and see how they are in a few months, I was going to run he denso's but nobody had them when I was running around that day
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Old June 24th, 2018, 06:15 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shazaam! View Post
Regarding the use of platinum and iridium spark plugs in a Ducati:

Platinum or iridium plugs will give you worse performance than a conventional plug unless you use a larger gap than is recommended for the steel electrode plug equivalent. One by-product (and benefit) to having platinum or iridium as an electrode material is that the harder material erodes more slowly and consequently allows you to reduce the size of the center electrode and still have a long-lifetime plug. Re-gapping is infrequent or eliminated. In fact, the initial reason this type of plug was developed was an attempt to meet the 100,000-mile durability/maintenance requirement mandated by the US EPA for exhaust emissions, not because they offered any improved performance over conventional electrodes

A smaller electrode, however, will arc at a lower voltage. This is good because the lower arc-over voltage is not as demanding on your less-than-new ignition coils and wires so the firing is more reliable. But this is also bad because a lower arc-over voltage presents a weaker spark kernel (lower arc current and duration) that is less likely to light off the air/fuel mixture.

Consequently, dyno testing shows a performance gain with specialty plugs only when their intrinsically lower arc-over voltage has allowed users to increase the plug gap above that possible with conventional steel electrode plugs. A larger plug gap needs a higher arc-over voltage to fire, and a larger gap, combined with good plug wires and coils, will span more fuel molecules resulting in a more reliable burn with fewer misfires. So you get better throttle response. Not more power mind you, better throttle response.

The transition between throttle positions involves a wide range of fuel/air mixtures and the ability to fire these less-than-ideal mixtures with a minumum of misfires is what throttle response is all about.

When it comes to spark plug gaps, bigger IS better. The larger the spark kernel that is generated by a spark jumping the electrode gap, the more likely and complete the fuel burn will be, and the smoother the engine will run. That is, the larger the spark gap thatís exposed to the air/fuel mixture, the easier it is to initiate combustion. This translates directly into improved throttle response.

Conversely, I have seen several examples of Ducati throttle response problems cured by replacing platinum/iridium plugs that were gapped too small (i.e. the 0.024 in. Ducati recommends for conventional plugs.) Both NGK and Denso pre-gap their Ducati application specialty plugs to 0.035 in. This should be considered a minimum gap for this kind of plug.

If you have a older bike, you may arc-over the plug wires before you can fire an optimized larger plug gap. If the spark plug wires have inadequate insulation, the wire cannot maintain a high enough voltage across the insulation and will arc to ground before firing the plug gap. The factory spark plug leads are stranded wire covered with an EPDM jacket and although the wire itself will last a long time, the insulating jacket will start to break down after a couple of years which is why most good aftermarket wire is insulated with silicone.

If this becomes a problem, replace the stock spark plug wires with a set of Magnecor or similar quality wires. This will allow running a larger plug gap without a concern for insulating the higher voltage needed to jump the gap. Ducati Superbike Magnecor #2549 wires, for example, run $67.

For street bikes, you should use carbon core wires, preferably carbon wires with a spiral wrap center conductor. Straight, multi-stranded, unshielded wire conductors offer theoretical gains resistance-wise, but produce lots of electromagnetic interference (EMI). One major concern is with the computer found used on fuel injected bikes since the radiated EMI can interfere with the computer and corrupt sensor and internal signals which can affect engine performance and reliability. This concern also extends to the use of non-resistor type spark plugs.

For older Super Sport bikes, Dynacoil replacement coils are also available and a recommended upgrade.
Thanks for the education... And with all that was said, what spark plug do you suggest for the 2011 1198sp?
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Old June 25th, 2018, 06:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TTubrag View Post
Does anyone have long term use feedback on the Denso Iridium IU27s? Good or Bad?

In real world use, how do they make your bike perform differently after installed and over time?

Any problems crop up over time with their use (eg: prematurely deteriorating coils or leads, problems associated with the hotter heat range?)

How many kilometers did they last in real world use?

Would you replace the stock NGK's with Iridiums again?
I fitted a set of Denso IU27 Iridiums to mine about 35k kms (a little over 20k miles) ago. Not something I planned, they were given to me by a grateful customer (thanks Nick!).
But they have performed well, with no subsequent issues. I have not had the plug-fouling problem that occasionally cropped up before when I had started it, run it only briefly and switched it off.
(They don't like that, for those who don't know - particularly with the DP ECU for the open exhaust. Better to ride it once you've started it).
I can't remember what the plug gap was I'm sorry, but it was pretty wide - .035" at least. It was the gap they were supplied with.
I can recommend them for those wanting to experiment, but do not claim a noticeable performance increase. I was just trying them because I could, and they didn't cost me.
But there does appear to be a better resistance to fouling, which is worth the change.
But I still avoid starting it until I'm ready to ride, even with the iridiums. Running it briefly on the cold-running circuit provides a very rich mixture (moreso with the 'racing' ECUs) and can cause a plug to foul.
And I have had no issues elsewhere attributable to the plugs in that mileage. The bike has now done 92,000 excellent kilometres - about 57,000 miles. And I still love it!

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Old July 25th, 2018, 06:03 PM   #21
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Just an update/report regarding the iridium plugs. I went for a ride yesterday (winter here) and after warming it up for a minute or so, and giving it a bit of throttle (still stationary) it went onto one cylinder - the first time it has done that since I fitted the Densos roughly 35,000 kms ago.
I thought I'd try riding it to see if it would 'clear', and it did! Excellent. It had never done that with the MAR10Js, where I'd had to swap out a plug when it did this (perhaps 4 - 5 times over a long mileage).
So mark down another benefit of the iridiums - they are more likely to cut back in if you do have a plug fouling issue.
And just to repeat myself repeat myself - these bikes don't like being run briefly (when cold) and switched off again. Better to ride it once you start it. Particularly with the DP ECU/exhaust upgrade which provides a very rich mixture on the cold running circuit (mine is a 1098S with 92,500 kms and Termi exhaust).
A function of a fairly small spark plug in a rather large cylinder head perhaps.
A nice ride anyway, if a bit chilly, and didn't have to fiddle with the plugs. Just tyre pressures and away. Sweet...
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Old July 27th, 2018, 06:15 AM   #22
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I would use the oem plug. They work great. You can get a few more horsepower on a dyno if you perform multiple dyno runs and switch out spark plugs for testing. Basically what I am saying if you spend about $2000-$3000 on tuning and spark plugs you might get 1-2 more horsepower. I would stick with the $20 oem plug and change it out every 15,000 miles. That is about 6 years of riding for me.
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