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-   -   Iridium Spark Plugs Anyone? (https://www.ducati.org/forums/1098-1198/31423-iridium-spark-plugs-anyone.html)

Tractionless February 18th, 2011 06:11 AM

Iridium Spark Plugs Anyone?
 
I did a search for "spark" and found surface discharge plugs put to rest. It looks like most just use the stock gapless, dual electrode, std. copper plugs. NGK MAR10A-J. Has anyone tried any iridiums? I'm having a hard time finding any for the application so far.

I use NGK iridiums in my 2 GSXR's and throttle response is noticibly better over coppers.

IcEMaN666 February 20th, 2011 03:47 AM

i think that does not exist iridium spark plugs for Ducati's

ducnial February 20th, 2011 05:01 PM

some models


http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/motorcycles/

Tractionless February 21st, 2011 05:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ducnial (Post 430753)

Still only comes up with the stocker. Maybe I'll try cross referencing to another brand or getting the thread pitch measurements etc. and doing it that way. Thanks

Mr Jurassic February 21st, 2011 09:26 AM

i use denso IU27
You have to gap them your self
they run 1 heat range hotter.. but they are basically the same plug

Tractionless February 22nd, 2011 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Jurassic (Post 430905)
i use denso IU27
You have to gap them your self
they run 1 heat range hotter.. but they are basically the same plug

Good info. What gap do you run since the manual doesn't call anything out?

Thanks

Shazaam! February 22nd, 2011 12:52 PM

Platinum and Iridium Sparkplugs
 
Regarding the use of platinum and iridium spark plugs in a Ducati:

Platinum or iridium plugs will give you worse performance than a conventional plug unless you use a larger gap than is recommended for the steel electrode plug equivalent. One by-product (and benefit) to having platinum or iridium as an electrode material is that the harder material erodes more slowly and consequently allows you to reduce the size of the center electrode and still have a long-lifetime plug. Re-gapping is infrequent or eliminated. In fact, the initial reason this type of plug was developed was an attempt to meet the 100,000-mile durability/maintenance requirement mandated by the US EPA for exhaust emissions, not because they offered any improved performance over conventional electrodes.

A smaller electrode, however, will arc at a lower voltage. This is good because the lower arc-over voltage is not as demanding on your less-than-new ignition coils and wires so the firing is more reliable. But this is also bad because a lower arc-over voltage presents a weaker spark kernel (lower arc current and duration) that is less likely to light off the air/fuel mixture.

Consequently, dyno testing shows a performance gain with specialty plugs only when their intrinsically lower arc-over voltage has allowed users to increase the plug gap above that possible with conventional steel electrode plugs. A larger plug gap needs a higher arc-over voltage to fire, and a larger gap, combined with good plug wires and coils, will span more fuel molecules resulting in a more reliable burn with fewer misfires. So you get better throttle response. Not more power mind you, better throttle response.

The transition between throttle positions involves a wide range of fuel/air mixtures and the ability to fire these less-than-ideal mixtures with a minumum of misfires is what throttle response is all about.

When it comes to spark plug gaps, bigger IS better. The larger the spark kernel that is generated by a spark jumping the electrode gap, the more likely and complete the fuel burn will be, and the smoother the engine will run. That is, the larger the spark gap thatís exposed to the air/fuel mixture, the easier it is to initiate combustion. This translates directly into improved throttle response.

Conversely, I have seen several examples of Ducati throttle response problems cured by replacing platinum/iridium plugs that were gapped too small (i.e. the 0.024 in. Ducati recommends for conventional plugs.) Both NGK and Denso pre-gap their Ducati application specialty plugs to 0.035 in. This should be considered a minimum gap for this kind of plug.

If you have a older bike, you may arc-over the plug wires before you can fire an optimized larger plug gap. If the spark plug wires have inadequate insulation, the wire cannot maintain a high enough voltage across the insulation and will arc to ground before firing the plug gap. The factory spark plug leads are stranded wire covered with an EPDM jacket and although the wire itself will last a long time, the insulating jacket will start to break down after a couple of years which is why most good aftermarket wire is insulated with silicone.

If this becomes a problem, replace the stock spark plug wires with a set of Magnecor or similar quality wires. This will allow running a larger plug gap without a concern for insulating the higher voltage needed to jump the gap. Ducati Superbike Magnecor #2549 wires, for example, run $67.

For street bikes, you should use carbon core wires, preferably carbon wires with a spiral wrap center conductor. Straight, multi-stranded, unshielded wire conductors offer theoretical gains resistance-wise, but produce lots of electromagnetic interference (EMI). One major concern is with the computer found used on fuel injected bikes since the radiated EMI can interfere with the computer and corrupt sensor and internal signals which can affect engine performance and reliability. This concern also extends to the use of non-resistor type spark plugs.

For older Super Sport bikes, Dynacoil replacement coils are also available and a recommended upgrade.

Tractionless February 22nd, 2011 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Jurassic (Post 430905)
i use denso IU27
You have to gap them your self
they run 1 heat range hotter.. but they are basically the same plug

Cross references to NGK CR9EIX at sparkplugs.com to get back down one heat range cooler or back to stock CR10EIX, :drummer:

Mr Jurassic February 23rd, 2011 10:59 AM

i run the denso iu27's with .065 gap and have really fucking awesome throttle response with my air to fuel ratio read out on the DDS of around 10

Mr Jurassic February 23rd, 2011 11:13 AM

ROFL i just did some research and relized my gap is double of what is recommended

Tractionless February 24th, 2011 06:22 AM

Jurassic,

Did you tune/retune with them or plugged and played on your current tune?

Thanks

safira218 February 24th, 2011 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tractionless (Post 430877)
Still only comes up with the stocker. Maybe I'll try cross referencing to another brand or getting the thread pitch measurements etc. and doing it that way. Thanks

Thanks for sharing. it's great

vinman February 24th, 2011 12:18 PM

I'm running the IU27 plugs (premium class). Can't remember but don't believe I change the gap from stock/factory and they run great. Might check to see where they are and possibly adjust if needed.

You could also try the IU27 plugs (ultimate class). Classified as racing plugs but also about $35 a pop.

Tractionless February 25th, 2011 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vinman (Post 431598)
I'm running the IU27 plugs (premium class). Can't remember but don't believe I change the gap from stock/factory and they run great. Might check to see where they are and possibly adjust if needed.

You could also try the IU27 plugs (ultimate class). Classified as racing plugs but also about $35 a pop.

Good info. The NGK's come at .035, I'm guessing the IU27's are close as they come up as a cross reference.

Mr Jurassic February 25th, 2011 01:38 PM

I retuned.... the ecu... it was dropping to much fuel for it...
I looked it up on the ECU with a DDS.... Now throttle response is outta this world
too bad the bike can barely start due to a bad sprag clutch...
sad to say its in the shop trying to get a sprag clutch warranteed
after 16,000miles


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