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Old November 17th, 2007, 12:49 PM   #1
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Track prep

I'm looking for some advise on getting ready for track day. How easy are the mirrors to remove and what about the electrical connections for the turn signals. Also on taping the lights, is it a good idea to remove the fuses (if you can) so it doesn't melt the tape. Any help is greatly appreciated, this will be my first time at the track so my apprehension level is a little high.

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Old November 17th, 2007, 12:57 PM   #2
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I dont know all the rules and regulations for you guys out there, but here we basically arrive at the track with our bikes as on the road.Mirrors everything attached etc

My best advice will be that you make sure your tires are run with the correct pressure for your weight and riding style. Aproximatly 2.1 bar front and 1.9 bar rear if your weight is about 70/80-kg. This to get them warm quickly and make them stick like glue.

Every bit of advice I think helps, so thats my $0.02.

Enjoy the day and take it easy!
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Old November 17th, 2007, 02:22 PM   #3
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Mirrors: There is 1 Allen head brass bolt holding each mirror in. Remove the bolt, and with careful pressure you can pull the mirror off (there are 2 snap pins on each mirror). When you pull them apart you will see where you can disconnect the turn signal wire. Once they are off, just run a zip tie on each side to keep the fairing fastened too the stays.

Lights: Under the left fairing, there is a small fuse box just under the front of the tank. The 15amp, fuse #2 is the fuse for your lights. I would remove so you dont heat duct tape glue to your lens covers. I didnt notice which fuse undid the tail lights and rear blinkers. Instead I just unclipped the wiring harness below my seat.

Additionally, if you plan on doing many track days, you can get this tape:

http://ducati1098.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1811

Remember to tape your wheel weights.

You will probably need to drain your radiator and flush it - run water wetter and distilled water.

Check with tire experts or experienced riders at the track for the pressures you should run for the days conditions. Cool morning at laguna last week I was running 29 front and rear on the Super Corsa's worked great.

See if there is a suspension person at your event - they usually charge $20-30 to help you adjust your suspension. DO IT. That is the best thing you can do to make your bike perform right for YOU.

Remember to relax, keep breathing and have fun.

-d
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Old November 17th, 2007, 02:49 PM   #4
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Tape your wheel weights?

Some tracks require that you swap out your anti-freeze/coolant for distilled water or something like water wetter...my advice is to determine if it's necessary. If it's not required I recommend against it...my track doesn't require it and my techs advised against it on a warrantied bike.

Tire pressure is key.

Make sure your chain is not too tight.

Work on relaxing because you'll be safer and better. You know how to ride...remember that and don't be intimidated especially since there will probably be all kinds there. Track days are designed for you to have fun while becoming an even better rider. Get plenty of sleep and have all of your stuff ready and it should be a blast!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatidave

Remember to tape your wheel weights.

You will probably need to drain your radiator and flush it - run water wetter and distilled water.

Check with tire experts or experienced riders at the track for the pressures you should run for the days conditions. Cool morning at laguna last week I was running 29 front and rear on the Super Corsa's worked great.

See if there is a suspension person at your event - they usually charge $20-30 to help you adjust your suspension. DO IT. That is the best thing you can do to make your bike perform right for YOU.

Remember to relax, keep breathing and have fun.

-d
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Old November 17th, 2007, 03:16 PM   #5
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Ever lose a wheel weight - changes things.

In these warmer parts nearly everyone requires no antifreeze - and the shop changed mine for me with no issues when I did my 1km service.

-d
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Old November 17th, 2007, 03:23 PM   #6
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Yeah I would think so...but do you tape them on the street or just the track? Just never heard of it before...

Nice

Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatidave
Ever lose a wheel weight - changes things.

In these warmer parts nearly everyone requires no antifreeze - and the shop changed mine for me with no issues when I did my 1km service.

-d
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Old November 17th, 2007, 04:13 PM   #7
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Thanks for the input
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Old November 17th, 2007, 04:23 PM   #8
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I only tape them for the track.
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Old November 18th, 2007, 06:33 AM   #9
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Hi All,I want some futher advice on the tyres. I did a track session yesterday.
The bike was skittering on the track. when I set off from home I had the pressure to 31 front, 33 rear on cold tyres. When I stopped at the end of the session the pressures were 2-3 psi higher on each tyre. I let them pressure down to 29F/30R but this was on warm tyres. So when the tyres cooled the pressure obviously dropped. i didn't get the chance to go out again so wasn't able to see the difference.

So my question is, what is the ideal pressure for both front and rear, and do you set this when the tyres are cold, or warm.
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Old November 18th, 2007, 06:54 AM   #10
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Usually you run same pressure or lower in the rear. I ran 29/29 on mid-70F day this week. It was perfect. Cooler would have run 30-31F/30R, warmer would have run 29/28 or even less in the rear.

One key is outside temp, another is track condition.

Best bet for any track day is to check what pressures to run from folks who are more familiar (the racers at the event, any tire guys that show up, any suspension guys).

-d
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Old November 18th, 2007, 08:03 AM   #11
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don't bother with the fuses. Remove mirrors, remove bulbs from front lights, disconnect harness under seat for rear lights. I usually remove the rear turn signal/license plate to clean up the lines and get the sharpedges of the plate out of the way. Only a few bolts but a big pain fishing the wires thru the assembly. Check the third pic in my album for the clean lines without the rear assembly.
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Old November 18th, 2007, 08:56 AM   #12
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I was out at VIR at the begining of Sept. with Keith Code's Super Bike School
and it was smokin hot, in the high ninties. I had the same problem with the front shittering/slipping and then I dropped the pressure from 32 psi to 30 psi and that slipping issue went away. I also dropped the rear from 33 psi to 30 psi. The bike felt great and the tires stuck like glue. This was with the stock 1098 tires. The 1098 has issues though with not wanting to turn well at higher speeds but that is another story.
The 1098 is a bit of a pain in the ass to get ready for a track day. I pulled the head light fuse, unplugged the tail light and removed the mirrors. Taping the wheel weights is a good thing to do too. If you loose one and it gets picked up by another riders tire it can get spit rearward like a bullet. Last summer a buddy of mine was racing and a bolt got spit back at him putting a hole through his windscreen and nailed him in the chest. Looking at the mark on his chest we figured it was a 6 mm bolt about an inch long and he found it later inside the bottom of his fairing. If it had hit his face shield he could have been blinded. It is a very good idea to check your bike and make sure the best you can that all your fasteners are tight and the bike is ready for battle.
BTW I had one of the most fun track school days ever
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Old November 18th, 2007, 09:27 AM   #13
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Turning at high speeds

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sagerider
The 1098 has issues though with not wanting to turn well at higher speeds but that is another story.
You touched an interesting point here. I had this problem during my track day, but thought it was because of something I did ie,lack of concentration, overpowering into the corner etc, but at the time when I crashed, my first thought was "why didnt the bike turn?" I was off the seat, leaned the bike in, did a serious attempt at counter steering into the corner, but it just didnt turn.

I had to decide..take the chance and jab the steering to get it to turn (if it doesnt work I am going to highside the bike...mmm not good), or throttle up to bring the bike straight up and run into the gravel. I took the gravel as a safer option...split second desicion.

This happen to anybody else, having a problem to turn the bike at high speed? What would cause this? Is there a way to overcome this?

It completely felt to me like the steering damper stiffened up so much that the bike didnt want to turn, but it felt fine after testing it back at the pits. (1098 with normal damper.)
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Old November 18th, 2007, 12:23 PM   #14
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I've run 3 tds with my 1098. So far so good.

First, on prep - just buy a huge amount of blue painters tape and bring the allen wrenches. It takes all of 5 minutes to prep a 1098. Remove the mirros and tape everything else and you are good to go. I have the oil filter etc safety wired - dealer did it for me - but not needed where I run. You could pull fuses and pretend to be doing something meaningful, but why bother. (ther riders love beeing blow by a ducati dressed in several punds of blue painters tape - you'll make friends fast.)

Tire pressure - 27-28 rear and 27-28 front set cold. Check as soon as you exit the track and they should come up 2-3 lbs. The 30-32 people are heading for are the hot pressures not the cold. Star at 32 cold and the front is going to slide and shutter like there is no tomorrow. I go up or down depending on how the tires are doing. You can go lower, but the tires will wear pretty quickly. They are always slick for some reason for me in the morning. I can count on losing the front until the tires get some heat in them - it takes time. I have no idea why. After lunch I never have an issue with the tiures, but before lunch they are always slick even witht he correct pressure.

I've had an issue once or twice on turn in but it was me and not the bike. I came in hot and was braking hard. It took a real effort to get the bike to turn in. Nothing was wrong with the bike, just me. I've run off into the gravel as well - but that was also just an issue of me being me.

Side note- I still have a stalling issue. Ony did the level 1 fix. It is not a problem at the track but now that my TD season is over and the occasional street ride is called for, the bike needs to go in for the next fix.
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Old November 18th, 2007, 01:30 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DukeQ
You touched an interesting point here. I had this problem during my track day, but thought it was because of something I did ie,lack of concentration, overpowering into the corner etc, but at the time when I crashed, my first thought was "why didnt the bike turn?" I was off the seat, leaned the bike in, did a serious attempt at counter steering into the corner, but it just didnt turn.


This happen to anybody else, having a problem to turn the bike at high speed? What would cause this? Is there a way to overcome this?
Mine has been running wide on corner exits while I'm on the gas. I finally set the sag this weekend, so I'm hoping that will help.
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