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Old November 20th, 2012, 07:21 PM   #181
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Quack quack Thankyou very much for great thread and guys who helped him! :-) Steve
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Old March 12th, 2013, 01:59 PM   #182
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Quack, awesome work. Great to see there's good people taking the time to share their project/build and contributing in. That's Priceless!
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Old March 12th, 2013, 02:06 PM   #183
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thanks steve! everything is still running STRONG! next up is new clutch basket and NO2 tank.











JK about NO2
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Old April 27th, 2013, 02:18 AM   #184
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New member here and having some problems that will probably require a rebuild and I'm freaked out about it. Reading through your 19 pages made me feel a lot better that you came out of the other end alright. Thanks for sharing your project and much respect for the serious DIY.

Here's a link to my own problems if you're curious.

https://www.ducati.org/forums/848/504...-happened.html
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Old November 5th, 2013, 10:58 PM   #185
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Quote:
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yup i almost forgot. I need to order this tool...only problem is i dont see one in the US for sale...


Where did you end up getting the enclosed-type socket tool from?
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Old November 5th, 2013, 11:50 PM   #186
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Where did you end up getting the enclosed-type socket tool from?
Here, biker
Ducati cam camshaft belt lock locking gear wheel nut
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Old November 6th, 2013, 05:42 AM   #187
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Its on ebay forcheap. Also I used plastic gear holder for 5 bucks
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Old January 20th, 2014, 12:27 PM   #188
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So I'm rebuilding my engine, and have a question. I will polish my crankshaft,so how I figure out what size of bearings I need? Or just stick with the coloring?
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Old January 20th, 2014, 12:44 PM   #189
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sorry Domin, i dont follow your question. im assuming you are saying you are going to change the diameter(clearance) when you polish it and need to remeasure what bearing ID you need which i dont have an answer for.
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Old January 21st, 2014, 12:52 PM   #190
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I would stick with the stock coloring and verify clearances with plastigauge...
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Old June 26th, 2014, 01:59 PM   #191
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BUMP! running strong since the rebuild!
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Old July 7th, 2014, 06:02 PM   #192
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great thread thanks! read the whole thing and it's very helpful. spun a rod bearing the other day after about 4k track miles on my 848. after reading this i think i'm going to be sending it to the experts lol.

***bookmarked just in case***
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Old July 9th, 2014, 06:19 PM   #193
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This thread is full of great info....I bookmarked it hoping I never have to reference it again. Well done quack.
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Old September 2nd, 2014, 08:11 PM   #194
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well first off congrats to quackquack for a great rebuild and for spending the time writing all that down for the next DIY guy...

My gearbox let go last month on my 999 so I'm going to take the engine out and take it apart. I have most of the tools but I think I'll buy the flywheel holder tool. I'm sure I'll have a ton of questions and may revisit this thread for some help from the engine builders.

Just quickly though I've changed timing belts and its never been an issue using the belts and dots method and keeping the cams in the same spots when refitting the new belts. However if I remove the heads to play around with the cams and the shims can I just put the cams into the correct spots by eye and the case marks or is there some crazy procedure to follow. Seems like I can just put them back where they were before. Say take a pic of them and just match that?? Am I over thinking the complexity of removing the heads?
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Old September 2nd, 2014, 08:21 PM   #195
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Either way is fine. A picture before removing (with the lower marks lined up) and refitting without turning the engine over and you should be fine.

Just remember that the cylinders are offset by 90 degrees, so only one cylinder can be at TDC, and that every second TDC is the same. The two cylinders fire on alternate revolutions.

And the cams run counter to the crankshaft, at half engine speed.

Take care, and you should be fine. It's not that hard if you take your time.

Just turn it over carefully the first time after you have assembled it, so if you have made a mistake you won't bend any valves!
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