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Old August 1st, 2012, 09:10 AM   #16
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good call...ill line the bench in plastic, get some plastic drawers and clear the bench for the dismantled parts.
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Old August 1st, 2012, 01:22 PM   #17
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9k miles needs rebuild? you must ride it hard!!
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Old August 1st, 2012, 02:24 PM   #18
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shrug...not any harder than people at the track. i guess its my bad i didnt put the 9k miles within the 2 year warranty..................
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Old August 3rd, 2012, 09:05 AM   #19
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I really need that extended warranty...good luck; appreciate you sharing this adventure.
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Old August 3rd, 2012, 09:15 AM   #20
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RANT FOR THE DAY::::::

so I setup the gopro...did about 3 hours of commentary including bolt sizes and placement, etc so i would remember how to put it back....LOW AND BEHOLD THE BATTERY WAS DEAD..it caught a HOLE 10 seconds from the beginning!!!!

oh well, i have the left and right covers and pieces removed....ill have the camera charged for the head/jug removal and splitting of the case...hopefully tonight
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Old August 3rd, 2012, 09:45 AM   #21
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So I see there is a special tool for the stared nut on the jugs...what's the best way to get this off and torque for later without the special tool?
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Old August 3rd, 2012, 09:48 AM   #22
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it's a metric twelve point (I think it's a 14mm, but don't quote me on it). any 12 pt wrench or socket will do.

The factory tool for the monster was hobbled together from the cut off end of a boxend 12pt wrench and a1/2" drive extension welded together on a bent piece of 3/8" steel round bar, The welds looked like peanut butter and the coating had big voids and peels right off.

Last edited by eric9877; August 3rd, 2012 at 10:08 AM.
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Old August 3rd, 2012, 09:57 AM   #23
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subscribed. Going through the same thing.
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Old August 3rd, 2012, 11:30 AM   #24
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this is what i found on ebay eric...i must have been to tired last night to even attempt to putting a regular socket on...im sure that will work

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Old August 3rd, 2012, 03:17 PM   #25
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Be aware that when you go to set torque on your Head Nuts with that tool the torque values have to be recalculated, as the torque wrench values arenbasedbon it's length and that wrench constitutes a lengthening of the torque wrench.

Torque required X length of original TW divided by the combined length of the TW and new wrench.

44 ft/lbs X 17 in TW divided by 22(17 + 5)

44 X 17
---------
22. Answer = 34 ft/lbs
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Old August 3rd, 2012, 07:54 PM   #26
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I thought if you had the torque wrench perpendicular to the tool, then no compensation was required.
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Old August 4th, 2012, 06:51 AM   #27
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yup, thanks for the tip.

OK the cylinders are removed...the horizontal rod has some play in it..the vertical is tight....cylinder walls look good...and the pistons look good. looks like i may have lucked out....splitting the case in the next couple of hours(waiting for another set of hands) pics for now....




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Old August 4th, 2012, 02:16 PM   #28
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First I would like to say thanks to Eric for giving me the confidence....the engine was MUCH easier to take apart than I had thought....i barely used 6 parts 1X1in containers in my 24 sectioned nuts/bolts box.

Tip for day..as you said, "make sure all the bolts are undone"...after about 30 minutes using 2X4 timbers to try and pry the case open, i took another minute to really look for bolts...low and behold 1 bolt was left. Once it was out, it was a breeze.

So the damage....I still dont know why it happened.....
after some thought i realized the vertical rod shouldnt be "tight" on the shaft and should rotate freely. Once i started playing around with ity, it unseized. Upon removal, i could see the the sleeve had started to grind down but not as much as the horizontal's....the horizontal connecting rod's sleeves had ground down and actually stacked up on each other. One the lower side of the crankshaft was exposed with no sleeve....Not sure what this means(the crank was severely damaged to allow the sleeves to slide upon each other? or did the sleeves spin, grind down and then slide on each other since the clearances opened up).

1.)So....now to gather my game plan..... As long as no one objects to my train of thought on the crankshaft and rods, i think ill send everything to Fox performance(only people i know online that ive found to do the work), get it knife-edged, lightened, and rebalanced as well as clean up the crankshaft surfaces. I believe then ill have to ask them what sleeves i need to order?(or maybe they will sell me some if i send the rods with them as well.)

2.)The rods have some surface damage as well..i assume this needs to be machined back to glass?

3.)The engine will need to be cleaned of all debri...not sure how to do this yet..suggestions?

4.)id like to open up some of the oil passages to improve oil flow....which ones? i need to research this

5.) I have noticed when shifting gears from 4th to 5th it drops between gears and feels like neutral...what should i inspect now that im here?

5.) Anything else i should do while its open?

parts list to order:
1.) head gaskets
2.) jug gasket
3.) head green oring set to slide down head bolts(i assume i need to replace these)
4.) head bolts/nuts?(reusable?)
5.) water pump gasket(since i had a leak)maybe its liquid
6.) liquid gasket maker---i typically use ATV black but id rather but whatever it calls for.
7.) Pulley 4 finger nut(i didnt have the right so i mangled it to get it off)
8.) Rod Sleeves X 2
9.) Belts(they have 9k miles on...should i since im here?)
10.) can i take the heads to a ducati shop and have them do valve clearance with the heads off?...maybe be cheaper than buying a shim kit....?
11.) spark plugs









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Old August 4th, 2012, 09:13 PM   #29
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I'm glad you're enjoying the experience
Sending the crank rods and pistons out for work is a great idea. they can also open up the passages on the crank if they find that it helps, and they will now if the rods are salvageable or if it's a good time to order up a set of pankl ti rods.
The best part to open up is the drainage in the case and polish down the rough casting surface inside the case for better oil return. I polished out the oil return groves in the jug bores and through the jugs as well on the motor I built. Nice polished surfaces with opened up oil returns will help from running the sump dry of hard accel at high rpm and will likely do more to help the lubrication than opening journals.
you can take the case to the machine shop once you are done with the polishing and have them put it is a cleaning tank- then blast out theoil journals with an air nozzle.
The shifting issues can typically be rectified by adjusting the lever inside the left case cover at the slip joint. Just take time when adjusting it on reassembly.
remember- use lots of moly based assenbly lube in assembly, every bearing and between any two components that rub against eachother.
I have used a sleeve made from a two liter soda bottle and a couple zip ties as a ring compressor when I didn't feel like spending the cash for the specific tool of the motor.
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Old August 5th, 2012, 12:48 AM   #30
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I strongly urge you to replace that rod rather than resizing it. The obvious heat it has taken will have embrittled the rod. I have seen rods with similar heat damage fail after resizing. Oil return should not be an issue (although as Eric says helping the return is a good idea) in these engines. I would seriously consider a different oil to the one you were using after the rebuild.
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