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Old April 27th, 2016, 08:26 AM   #16
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mic drop
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Old April 27th, 2016, 08:29 AM   #17
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I highly recommend doing it yourself; too easy to justify paying someone else to do it IMO. As an example, Motowheels has basket/clutch packages around $375. Just plates will be cheaper.

Moto Wheels - Parts - Clutch - Baskets
Thanks man. More than capable of doing the work myself, just figured I'd ask the question just because. LOL
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Old April 27th, 2016, 08:45 AM   #18
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Old April 27th, 2016, 11:23 AM   #19
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The standard test for detecting worn-out clutch plate friction material is to watch for slippage when accelerating in top gear. Some people are just harder on clutches than others, so service mileage will vary over a wide range.



You can often stop slippage by maintaining the force pushing the plates together. The idea here is to maintain the 38 mm new stack height as the friction material wears off and reduces the thickness of each plate. The higher the stack height, the more the springs are shortened/compressed, and the greater the force pushing the plates together. The clutch slips when there's not enough force supplied by the springs or the friction material is worn completely off.



The service limit on 3 mm friction plates is 2.8 mm. For 2.5 mm plates the service limit is 2.3 mm.



The plain metal plates come in stock 2.5 mm or 3 mm thicknesses. When the overall plate stack height wears 0.5 mm, replace one 2.5 mm flat plate with a 3 mm one. At 1 mm stack height wear, repeat for a second flat plate. At 1.4 mm - 1.6 mm wear, replace all the friction plates. Allowable friction plate wear is 0.2 mm (each).



Ducati considers both the plates and clutch basket to be wear items. By the time you need to replace the worn-out clutch plates the basket has been notched from the impact loads of the plates. Ducati specifies the allowable gap between the plates and basket as a quite small 0.6 mm, effectively saying to replace the basket and plates together.



Also check the pressure plate throwout bearing and pushrod for smooth rotation.

Oh wow what was the question again? Very impressive write up . I'm super glad for the clarification although I'm gonna have to go to my airline mechanics to find out what some of that meant.
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Old April 29th, 2016, 06:41 PM   #20
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When replacing the clutch plates is it necessary to change the oil at the same time? Someone said that and I questioned myself why would the engine oil have anything to do with the dry clutch?
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Old April 29th, 2016, 08:20 PM   #21
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When replacing the clutch plates is it necessary to change the oil at the same time? Someone said that and I questioned myself why would the engine oil have anything to do with the dry clutch?
Hydraulic clutch oil...
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Old April 29th, 2016, 10:17 PM   #22
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Or if the hydraulics are working. Don't fark with them
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Old May 1st, 2016, 04:33 AM   #23
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No, it's not necessary to replace the clutch fluid when you replace the clutch plates. At most, you could bleed it but you shouldn't even need to do that. You are correct, the engine oil does not interact with a dry clutch
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Old May 1st, 2016, 08:03 AM   #24
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No, it's not necessary to replace the clutch fluid when you replace the clutch plates. At most, you could bleed it but you shouldn't even need to do that. You are correct, the engine oil does not interact with a dry clutch

Is it possible to bleed it without the use of a mighty vac?
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Old May 1st, 2016, 09:02 AM   #25
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Absolutely. Been bleeding my original '07 1098 without a mightyvac. I'd be willing to bet most people here don't have a mightyvac. Just be sure to bleed both the master and slave cylinders. My technique is the slave first, then the master. Some will say the other way around. Usually you can just do the slave. Either way, be patient and bleed until you're sure you've got all the air out.
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Old May 1st, 2016, 11:46 AM   #26
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I highly recommend doing it yourself; too easy to justify paying someone else to do it IMO. As an example, Motowheels has basket/clutch packages around $375. Just plates will be cheaper.

Moto Wheels - Parts - Clutch - Baskets
Agreed, the first time I did it, I was scared shitless, I thought I was defusing a bomb! But I downloaded a few step by step how to's then found a Yuotube vid. It was simple and soooooo much cleaner then a wet clutch!!!
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Old May 1st, 2016, 11:49 AM   #27
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Absolutely. Been bleeding my original '07 1098 without a mightyvac. I'd be willing to bet most people here don't have a mightyvac. Just be sure to bleed both the master and slave cylinders. My technique is the slave first, then the master. Some will say the other way around. Usually you can just do the slave. Either way, be patient and bleed until you're sure you've got all the air out.
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Old May 1st, 2016, 12:01 PM   #28
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Wow I needed a laugh today. Thanks for that
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Old May 11th, 2016, 04:11 AM   #29
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Well after finally receiving my Barnet Clutch plates here is before and after pics. Can't really see the difference in thickness but damn is it there and the noise is gone.Name:  ImageUploadedByDucati.org Forum1462965110.630634.jpg
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Old May 11th, 2016, 04:38 AM   #30
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Well after finally receiving my Barnet Clutch plates here is before and after pics. Can't really see the difference in thickness but damn is it there and the noise is gone.Attachment 94257
This answered my question lol...

How's the barnett pack? I've read most people don't like em how's the driveability? Any jerkiness while taking off more then usual? Did you grease the plates?
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