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Old July 20th, 2016, 10:36 AM   #31
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Old July 26th, 2016, 08:51 AM   #32
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not sure what happened to all your responses. anyway, I'm wondering if I should try reducing my cps air gap. It's at .6mm at the moment. Supposedly, spec is .6-.8mm. I'm not sure why it would cut out suddenly though if it was working ok before.
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Old July 26th, 2016, 11:33 AM   #33
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Old July 28th, 2016, 07:26 AM   #34
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Check your starter sprag clutch.
Engine turns over fine. I replaced the sprag clutch last year. Wouldn't explain why the bike cut off while riding either. I haven't had a chance to look at the bike the past few days. Hopefully I'll get back to it this weekend.
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Old July 28th, 2016, 02:26 PM   #35
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Tagging for info, and for personal curiosity to see how long it takes for you to throw all your tools across the garage in a blaze of cuss words..
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Old July 28th, 2016, 05:04 PM   #36
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Tagging for info, and for personal curiosity to see how long it takes for you to throw all your tools across the garage in a blaze of cuss words..
lol i'm pretty persistent. I just noticed my vertical belt is a little looser than it should be. i wonder if that effects the timing enough that it won't fire. I degreed my cams last year so maybe a loose belt is enough to cause issues?
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Old July 31st, 2016, 07:57 PM   #37
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strange starting question

Unless the belt jumped a tooth I doubt that's your issue.
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Old August 1st, 2016, 08:34 AM   #38
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Old August 2nd, 2016, 06:39 AM   #39
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The cutting out seems to happen when the bike is at operating temperature.

You already replace the crank position sensor, right?

The crank position sensor tends to get worse with heat.
A faulty crank position sensor can cause poor starting, stalling and/or poor running or the engine may not run at all.
i'm trying to remember if I swapped it out after the first time it happened lol. I had a spare. I may pick up a new one anyway.
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Old August 19th, 2016, 05:04 PM   #40
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Just a little update. I swapped out the voltage regulator for a solid state, crank sensor, both coils, both spark plugs, and swapped in my old fuel pump. I don't know if it's in my head, but the fuel pump sounded a little stronger when priming. The bike started up super easy this time. It idled strongly. I just let it long enough to get up to temp to bleed the coolant and circulate the oil. Hopefully have it all back together tomorrow for a test ride.
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Old February 17th, 2020, 12:17 PM   #41
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Ok so this thread is the only one that comes back from the search for P0505.

I just got done taking the bike down for it's first shake down ride after installing the Corse ECU and Harness on my 848.

I have no issues with the bike from what I can tell other than the check engine like would come on randomly as I was riding.

When I check the P0505 error was present in the ECU. I see the OP never chimed back. I wonder if this is a sign of my rectifier going out? It is an original stock.


Any suggestions on where to start I suppose it being random /intermittent I could have a lose connection or pinched wire?

Again the bike is not showing in issues other than the light coming on and off.
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Old February 17th, 2020, 02:36 PM   #42
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Is the IACV plugged in all the way? It is hard to get in while you're putting the airbox into place.
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Old February 17th, 2020, 04:29 PM   #43
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Is the IACV plugged in all the way? It is hard to get in while you're putting the airbox into place.
I'm not sure exactly which plug that is?

A little update it's gotten worse the code comes up almost all the time and this time when the light is on the bike will not start or idle on it's own I have to throttle it to get it started and keep it started.

The TPS was really out of whack and finally through an error. I had a spare and that looks fine now.

I will look for the IACV plug, but when I was putting the bike back together I had broken a little it of the plastic moleding on the throttle cables where they stack on top of each other where they go into the throttle houseing for the clip on. I ordered a new set of cables a while back ago.

I think I will pull the tank replace the throttle cables and check all the connections on the air box.
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Old February 17th, 2020, 05:09 PM   #44
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Idle Air Control Valve. 4 pin connector middle of the throttle bodies
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Old February 17th, 2020, 08:31 PM   #45
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Quote:
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Idle Air Control Valve. 4 pin connector middle of the throttle bodies
Well I was almost ready to pull the airbox, tank is removed and most of the box disconnected just not pulled.

I took a look and sure enough I was able to get a screw driver on the back of the connector and apply pressure heard the snap then saw the paint showing it fully engaged now...

Iím this far but Iím curious... now should I go ahead and pull the box and replace the cables or throw it all back together or save the cables for the next time I actually pull the box.

Sigh...
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