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Old December 26th, 2016, 10:26 PM   #1
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1198 clutch replacement

Hey guys, so my 1198s is coming up on 15,000 miles and I'm sure I'll be there this spring. I'm planning on taking it in for the desmo service when I get there but my bike also is still on it's original set of clutch plates (the clutch is absolutely stock from the pressure plate to the cover) and I was wondering what I'm looking at price wise if I go through my dealer to have them order and install the new clutch or if I'm better off attempting this myself?(I'm pretty handy when it comes to my bike) also what all should I replace? It hasn't slipped at all really but the bite point is at the very end of the lever travel and feathering it is getting a lot tougher it seems. I'd guess the friction plates are all that need replacing but if there's anything else I should look at I'd be happy to get some info as I'm new to fixing clutches. Thanks in advance!
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Old December 26th, 2016, 11:38 PM   #2
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No idea what the dealer will charge for labor but new plates will run you roughly $220. If you also do the basket which some people recommend (and I agree for your mileage), you're looking at closer to $350. Those prices are EVR sintered plates last I looked, organic will be cheaper as will a brand like Barnett. It is a very easy job to do. You just need the right size socket (25mm? Not sure but it's big), a good torque wrench up to 250 Nm if you're replacing the basket, and digital calipers to measure the stack height of all the plates.

Personally I'd do it myself. Too easy especially if you already have the tools and saves some time/money at the dealer. Is yours a slipper clutch? If not, you could probably get by with just replacing the friction plates to save money. But with a slipper or track/stunt bike I'd say replace the whole basket and plate set.

Also, there may be a how-to write up around here. Either way we can walk you through it. Easy as pie
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Old December 27th, 2016, 07:17 AM   #3
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Awesome! That's all the info I was looking for. I don't have a slipper but I'll take your advice on replacing the basket and plates. Thanks for the help!
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Old December 27th, 2016, 10:34 AM   #4
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Hanging out inside a few MotoGP pit boxes, I see them taking the plates and putting them on a flat steel plate one at a time to see if they're straight or warped.
They tap on the plates with a finger and if It makes noise it needs replacement.
It it doesn't make noise , it's straight.
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Old December 27th, 2016, 10:47 AM   #5
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It hasn't slipped at all really but the bite point is at the very end of the lever travel and feathering it is getting a lot tougher it seems.
You just need to bleed the air that got into the system. Hydraulic clutches are self-adjusting, which means the lever engagement point doesn't move as the friction material wears. It will move however if there is air in the system.

Depending on how hard you are on the clutch you could easily see another 7,000 miles before needing replacement.

The proper test is to check for slippage when giving it full throttle while in 6th gear.
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Old December 27th, 2016, 12:45 PM   #6
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1198 clutch replacement

I initially though air had gotten in the system as well but after bleeding it and replacing my slave cylinder it's still at the very end of the lever travel. When I say the very end I mean there's only a few millimeters of travel before the lever is fully at rest. Over the fall it wasn't really an issue but it's getting cold here in Missouri and wearing thick gloves on cold 45 minute commutes has proven difficult. Thanks for all the replies everyone!

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Old December 27th, 2016, 12:53 PM   #7
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I initially though air had gotten in the system as well but after bleeding it and replacing my slave cylinder it's still at the very end of the lever travel.
If you replace the stock slave cylinder with a larger diameter aftermarket unit you will experience a easier lever pull, but you will also require a longer lever pull to fully disengage the clutch and move the engagement point closer to the handlebar. So your engagement point has nothing to do with plate wear. Put the old slave back on or adjust the lever (see Owners Manual) to be farther from the handlebar.
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Old December 27th, 2016, 01:18 PM   #8
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It was a new Ducati performance slave cylinder. Same part number as oem ordered at my local dealer. I've adjusted the lever and it's not the lever reach that's the issue. Even if the lever is at the setting closest to the bar the point at which it disengages is only a couple mm pull and the friction zone is so tiny it's very hard to feather when it's cold and I'm using glove liners in my normal gloves. I used to have an 06 cbr1000rr which had a hydraulic clutch as well and I never had issues bleeding it or letting air in quicker than expected. I'm not saying your wrong about the plates, I'm just looking for suggestions on how to improve the control I have over the clutch. The pull isn't overly difficult so I didn't get an after market slave cylinder but if that would extend the friction zone then I'll definitely look into it. I was thinking between that and the new plates the clutch would surely have a different feel which is what I want. If you have any other insight (you definitely know more than I do) I'd love to hear it. I love the bike but I'd love it more with a different clutch I think!
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Old December 27th, 2016, 03:52 PM   #9
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I was under the impression that the Ducati Performance clutch slave cylinder was a larger diameter than the slave unit delivered on the bike I may be wrong. A larger slave just accentuates the long lever throw problem caused by air in the system

I CAN tell you that the clutch hydraulic system on Ducatis is notoriously difficult to bleed the air out completely. To make it easier, a number of owners have moved the bleed valve to the connection to the master cylinder the high point of the system because that's where the air bubble lives.
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Old December 27th, 2016, 04:16 PM   #10
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That's a good idea and I think I've seen a bike or two with owners who've done this mod.
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Old December 27th, 2016, 04:57 PM   #11
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I was under the impression that the Ducati Performance clutch slave cylinder was a larger diameter than the slave unit delivered on the bike I may be wrong. A larger slave just accentuates the long lever throw problem caused by air in the system



I CAN tell you that the clutch hydraulic system on Ducatis is notoriously difficult to bleed the air out completely. To make it easier, a number of owners have moved the bleed valve to the connection to the master cylinder the high point of the system because that's where the air bubble lives.

I've always bled it at the slave then moved to the master. But always do them both, even on the brakes.
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Old December 27th, 2016, 05:18 PM   #12
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Reverse flow bleeding is the best.....
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Old December 27th, 2016, 06:01 PM   #13
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At 15,000 miles your basket may be so notched that the plates don't move properly. New basket and plates and most, if not all, of your problems might be gone. And bleeding the master is critical.
Have you changed levers? I found mine were misadjusted by the PO at the pushrod. That creates some odd clutch issues that can be hard to nail down if they are 'solved' with the wrong method.
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Old December 28th, 2016, 09:39 AM   #14
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I've been using the oem levers so far but I'm planning on replacing them in the next few weeks when I order the new basket and plates.
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