Ducati.org forum banner

1098 Frame Swap

10K views 38 replies 6 participants last post by  Raider 
#1 ·
So, due to various reasons, I need to swap the frame on my 1098. I thought I would document the process here for the benefit of all and as a way to seek out the advice of those with experience in this area.

This winter I had the bike down to the bare bones, but built it all the way back up before deciding to do the swap. Now I'll be under the gun since I've got 3 days at the Brno Circuit booked in just a month. The replacement frame isn't due here for another 10 days or so due to the long shipping times from the US in my circumstance.

I'll try and get as much disassembly done before the new frame gets in here in order to speed up the process and ID any difficulties while I have the time. My goal is to leave as much of the engine and swing arm intact and connected and hopefully just pull the frame off the top and put the new on. I'm also waiting on the nifty engine stand from Corse Dynamics since it worked so well for Tchase. Anyone know if the stand will work with the exhaust still on? Also, it looks like I need to remove the rear brake MC to get to the holes that the stand should bolt into. Tchase, can you confirm?

Here is the bike at the start with the new fiberglass body from Sebimoto. I still need to glue down and shape the seat pad a bit. Planning to paint it this summer once I get moved into my new place.
 

Attachments

See less See more
1
#2 ·
Yes you will have to remove the rear brake cylinder it uses those holes for the course dynamic stand I'm not 100% sure on the exhaust I can't remember as I had remove them both without that stand.

I should get my suspension back next week and I will let you know about the exhaust
 
#5 ·
Ok, the first evening's work was to remove the body work and take as many pictures as possible to ensure I could get everything back together. I've had the body off and on several times so its a 10 minute job max. When taking pics, I tried to pay particular attention ti the routing and location of the wiring loom and connectors.
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Tanks off now. A pic from above to try and make sure I get the bars back in a similar position. I'm going to try and remove the entire front end as one assembly; just take off the top triple and the nut for the headstock and slide it all out.

And a pic looking back at the subframe, you can see the TCS mount. I'll try and keep the subframe and exhaust together as its always time consuming to get it all back together. I think removal will be easy, but hopefully putting it back wont prove impossible.
 

Attachments

#8 ·
More pics and updates coming later, but anyone have an idea how to remove the bolts securing the ignition switch/steering lock to the frame? It appears to be a double sided bolt but there is no way to remove it short of the brute force method with some pliers, and thus marring the bolts.
 

Attachments

#12 ·
Double nut...brilliant and easy. I knew I was missing something obvious. Never heard of the stud remover socket. I will check it out.

Dutch, that is a serious stand! I like it. I've got plenty of wheely things around that will help me move it around as necessary.

I really appreciate all the help so far.
 
#13 ·
So, its now Sunday at 2pm. The good news is I think I have made about as much progress as possible until my engine stand arrives and the new frame gets here. The front came off in mostly one piece and I didn't have to open the hydraulic systems (small victories!)

The bad news is I made much more 'progress' than I though I would have to.

I knew I'd need to unplug some electrical connections, but certainly did not anticipate needing to remove the entire wiring harness. All this due to the hand full of connections that run between the cylinders since they pass through one of the triangular sections in the frame. I also did not anticipate needing to remove the entire water cooling system. I new I'd have to break the system near the same triangle that the wiring harness ran through, but in the end, I took the whole thing out since I had the time now. Figured it would be a good time to flush out the system. I flushed the radiator and expansion tank using tap water at the kitchen sink (shhh don't tell the wifey). Once the bike is back together, I will do a distilled water/vinegar flush and then refill with distilled water and water wetter for the track.

Just a few observations from the weekend's efforts. First, the electric connections with the little wire clip securing them (like the fuel injectors on the airbox in the pic) are a PITA. Second, anyone know what that random electrical connection is at the back of the engine is? The one closest to the rear shock with the rubber plug sealing the hole...just curious. Third, I'm certainly no genius, and maybe some of you already figured this out, but I have found it super convenient to put a zip tie on bolts to hold them in place. Once loosened and the part is separated from what ever it was attached to, I leave the bolt in the hold and put a zip tie around the threads. No trying to figure out where bolts came from or losing them.

I tried to quit a couple of times today only to realize there were more bolts I could undo. You can see in the third pic I was about to call it quits with the radiator and wiring harness still attached. Got those pesky system out of the way and was set to leave in on my Bursig stand, but realized I would eventually need to get it off there in order to get the engine and pivot bolts out, so I have the thing hanging from a ladder as I have seen demonstrated on the forum.

So, as of now, I think there are only 3 bolts to remove to get the frame off. The two engine bolts and the swing arm pivot.

All that is left to do now is wait for the mailman.
 

Attachments

#14 ·
Oh yeah, one last task...I've been told by the Nemesis TCS developer guy at Bike Sport Developments that I need to remove one of the feeds from the generator to the electrical system. Without all the lights, the TCS runs better with only two feeds.

Anyone have a trick for getting the female spade connector out of the connector block? Seems like I need some thin and narrow tool to depress the locking tab inside, but as of now, I'm out of ideas.

One more question, now that I am going through all my photos: In the second pic you can see the valves for the horizontal cylinder. That one on the left is really dirty. Is this a problem? I am not so smart on diagnosing engine problems or engine internals.

Thanks guys!
 

Attachments

#15 ·
On the plug all you have to do is remove the metal clip. Dental pick works great. Lift one side then the other be careful it will spring off.

The exhaust valve will always look dirty compared to the intake. I'm not an expert of when it's considered an issue.
 
#16 ·
To remove the terminal from the connector you can use a paper clip bent open. Small instrument screwdriver works well, if you have one.

I had deposits on only one intake, as well. I think it is due to the position of the injector - over one valve more than the other. I cleaned it with injector cleaner.
 
#17 ·
Second, anyone know what that random electrical connection is at the back of the engine is? The one closest to the rear shock with the rubber plug sealing the hole...just curious.
Neutral sensor.

Anyone have a trick for getting the female spade connector out of the connector block? Seems like I need some thin and narrow tool to depress the locking tab inside, but as of now, I'm out of ideas.
The clip looks the fuel injector clip, which you need to remove before unplugging the connector.
This one you need to push in, so you can unplug the connectors from each-other --- push and pull type.
The same as your headlight one.

Ducati 848 workshop manual
 
#20 ·
BTW if you are ever looking for a connector for your bike this guy is the man.

I was looking for the stock version on the Corse wire harness to hook up the dynojet quick shift.

I sent a pic to him and he replied back with what I needed. I even picked up a couple tools.

Motorcycle HM .090 Sealed - Connector and Terminals
 
#21 ·
Good to know...may come in handy next winter as I play with my extra harness while watching the bike sit in the garage...

BTW, I finally got that terminal out of the block...I was trying to find the retaining tab on the wrong side of the terminal...duh. Once I rinsed the gunk out of the terminal I had the bright idea to stick the screw driver in the opposite side and bingo out it slid.

Next step is to find a couple M6 nuts to get those ignition bolts off... I think the hardware store is a better idea than sifting through all those buckets of spare odds and ends.
 
#22 ·
So, brief update, but no pictures...

Frame came today, but not my engine stand. That package is another week out due to my location and shipping service. So, that left a choice of either sit on my hands for another week while my track days inch ever closer, or get creative and see if I can swap a frame with a ladder some straps, a swiss army knife and 1/2 a stick of chewing gum.

Believe it or not, I was able to get the new frame installed. The only thing I had to take off that I hadn't planned to was the exhaust. I was able to leave the rear swing arm in place, just held there by the chain. Trying to keep everything lined up while swinging from the ladder wasn't exactly fun, but I managed. I'd say about 3 hours tonight and I no longer need the ladder and straps. The frame is torqued down and supported by my Bursig stand.

The only thing that concerns me now is moving the steering stem bearing races from old frame to the new one. They are brand new tapered bearings that came with the CD 30mm offset triples. The lip available in the steering head seems much more narrow than the stockers. Not much surface area for a drift or other puller type tool to grab on to to get them out. I haven't tried anything yet, so my consternation could be for naught...only time will tell.
 
#26 ·
I've got a tool like that on the way, already. It appears to be the most effective way to remove these things. I hope it works! Do you have any experience with something like that?
So you got me thinking and I looked up that tool, couple options on size. It looks like the 1098 and 848 are the same size so what is the ID of the steering stem?

26mm-35mm Motorcycle Steering Head Bearing Drift Removal Tool | eBay

35mm-55mm Motorcycle Steering Head Bearing Drift Removal Tool | eBay
 
#28 ·
Of course the tool I bought is too small for the 1098 headstock. Looks like I'll just buy a new set of bearings and get rid of the stick races still installed on my new frame.

Since Monday evening, I've got the old frame off and the new installed, all the through bolts installed and torqued, 99% of the wiring finished (including the rats nest of wires for the TCS), and the air box reinstalled.

Feeling pretty good about things and hopefully I'll have it all back together before the weekend is over.

Auto part Engine Vehicle Automotive engine part Car
Auto part Vehicle Engine Car Tire
 
#29 ·
Of course the tool I bought is too small for the 1098 headstock. Looks like I'll just buy a new set of bearings and get rid of the stick races still installed on my new frame.
Well that sucks, leave it to MW to not specify which bike they will work on..

Did you happen to get the ID measurement?
 
#30 ·
#31 ·
Inside Diameter: (2)35mm
Outside Diameter: (2)55mm
Width: (2)11mm

Specs from https://www.denniskirk.com/all-balls/steering-stem-bearing-kits-22-1039.p122120.prd/122120.sku

They don't list the Ducati in their fitment, but it is compatible according to the Manufacturer's website: 22-1039 | All Balls Racing

I just received a set and will try and install tonight if I can get the OEM races out with my drift.
Thanks I'm going to assume this is the correct one

35mm-55mm Motorcycle Steering Head Bearing Drift Removal Tool | eBay
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top