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-   -   2013 796 abs (https://www.ducati.org/forums/ducati-monster-796/113505-2013-796-abs.html)

TG781 April 23rd, 2019 06:37 PM

2013 796 abs
Hi All,

New here, I've been looking for a Ducati 796 and found a pretty nice one locally. 2013 796 ABS Black 9k miles. Cosmetically in great shape and completely stock. Pretty good price from what I've seen.

I've only spoken to the owner over the phone as I'll be looking at it in a couple of days, he seemed pretty honest and gave me a run through. He said it may need a new clutch soon as first gear engages towards the end of the clutch release and the front brakes are squeaky which is obviously not a big deal as long as the rotors are in good shape and straight. I asked if the clutch was slipping while in gear and he said no. He also has paperwork for the 7.5k service in which the valves, belts, fluids and rear brake pads and rotor were replaced.

Short of taking the clutch case off and inspecting the plates which I obviously won't be able to do, is there anything I can check to see why it would not be engaging right away? Could it really be bad plates at 9k miles? Is that just how these bikes are? Could it be something as simple as low fluid? This is my first Ducati so trying to learn the ins and outs, I've had a Yamaha and Honda which were both cable actuated clutches and were adjustable on the lever pull. So I'm not sure if it could be something simple or I'm going to have to replace clutch plates soon.

All that being said, anything else I should look for on this particular model? Are they pretty reliable? Any electrical issues? Never had a bike with ABS, any issues with the braking system?

Sorry for the long first post. Thanks!!

itsjohnny May 1st, 2019 09:13 PM

Take it on a test ride.

I was told that engagement of the clutch is always at the end of clutch release for Ducati's with clutch master cylinders. I bought mine at around the same mileage and planned on changing the clutch plates. If it feels like slipping make sure that you verify where the dowel pin is situated on the clutch lever. It might not be adjusted properly. There is a scored line that is an indicator that it should not be depressed inside when lever is at rest. There should not be play or deadzone when pulling the lever in. Adjust the set screw. I didn't pay attention to this when I changed the OEM levers to short levers. If pressed in, it can prevent engaging to 2 and 3rd gear after the engine is warmed up.

Check if the clutch/brake fluids if they are clear. If dark color it has not been flushed/replaced in a long time.

Verify all lights turn on. Verify brake light by individually pulling the brake lever then the foot brake.

ABS is awesome. It saved me from 1 or 2 incidents when I had to brake suddenly fast. I would make sure that every bike I own has this.

Check the tires. Is it on the original tires? Plan on changing them soon or around 10K. Having new ones you feel more of the road and be more aggressive on leans. The feeling was like night and day. I bought Michelin Pilot Road 4

Check suspension - Make sure you don't see fluid leaks on the forks. Get on the bike and put your weight on the seat and handle bars rocking aggressively back and forth so you can compress the suspension. Making sure it bounces back.

If you decide to buy it. Change/flush all fluids, clean the slave clutch cylinder, de-grease/lube chain and adjust if necessary, remove the front sprocket cover and clean that area, remove tires to lube the axles, put seafoam in gas tank dissolve carbon buildup in the gas tank/injectors every 2 fill ups, get new spark plugs, and wash it.

Good luck and enjoy!!

TG781 May 3rd, 2019 02:19 PM

Appreciate the reply and great info!

I'll check the adjustment of the levers, it still has the stock levers on there. Looking at the bike I think the fluids would be a good place to start, it hasn't been ridden much in the past two years (600 miles).

Thanks again.

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