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Old December 11th, 2019, 12:01 AM   #1
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Help troubleshooting dead battery Ď12 848

Have a 2012 848 EVO CORSE. Went to a track day and since then a battery drains after about 48-72 hours to the point of not getting any response when turning the ignition key. Initially I though it might have been because of other things hooked up to the battery but thatís not the case (currently only have the main harness hooked up). I wouldnít know where to start to diagnose but seems like there is a constant drain. Are shops able to identify the issue? Do I get a volt meter and start testing it? Throw the bike out? Always keep it on a tender for the rest of the bikeís days? Any help, tips, or suggestions are appreciated.


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Old December 11th, 2019, 05:58 AM   #2
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Unhook the battery and test it using a voltmeter. Then put it on a charger and test it again. Then test it again about 3 hours later (batteries always put out a high number right after being charged).

Throw it out is another option but you must always dispose of them in a responsible way. Send it to me and I will make sure its responsibly recycled.
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Old December 11th, 2019, 06:00 AM   #3
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First determine whether the battery is being drained or is simply failing to hold a charge.

Disconnect the battery's positive connection and wait two or three days. Reconnect it ó and if it fails to start the bike, you need to replace the battery.
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Old December 11th, 2019, 07:44 AM   #4
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After you have followed Shazaam's good advice to make sure it isn't a bad battery issue...

The best way to check for current draw is using a test light in series with the negative cable. Note that it has to be a simple bulb type test light and not fancy LED.
Disconnect the negative at the battery, connect the test light clip to the battery and then connect the probe end to the negative cable. If it lights up, you have a draw that is large enough to worry about. Draws under 30 ma are common and normal and that is why the bulb type is the way to go - it just won't light up if the draw is really small.
To diagnose further, if you have a draw:
While keeping an eye on the test light, remove each fuse and see if the light goes out. Do not put them back in yet... Remember that the Reg/Rec is always connected so it needs to be disconnected after the fuses, if you still have a draw. Light out = you found the item.
The reason for not reinstalling the fuses as you go? Sometimes 2 items may be shorted together so either will show a draw. Think wires to rear lights and DDC connector, for instance.
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Old December 11th, 2019, 09:56 AM   #5
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I forgot to mention that itís a brand new Shorai battery. That was the first thing I did is replace the battery but the that didnít solve the issue. We can rule out battery not holding a charge as it was two that drained.


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Old December 11th, 2019, 10:11 AM   #6
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Can I use one of these things?




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Old December 11th, 2019, 11:47 AM   #7
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Hard to tell from the image if it is "too fancy". The really simple ones with a bulb are the best for this stuff. I have fancy LED ones for checking injectors and so on. They are MUCH too sensitive for this type of simple draw check. Your local Autozone or whatever should carry a cheap test light. I'm thinking under 10 bux...
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Old December 11th, 2019, 12:01 PM   #8
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One problem I've had on my track bike is leaving the ignition on, night before track day I left it on. I got a charge on for about 3 hours and it brought it back. If you are killing a brand to Shorai something has to be going on with the bike? When you charge the Shorai are you using their charger or a conventional one?

Anyways I've drained the battery 3 times and it's come back full so I'm at a loss. Are these bike like cars where you can start it disconnect the battery and it will run off it's own charger? I wonder if you are running off the battery when they bike is running?
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Old December 11th, 2019, 04:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Svensken View Post
Hard to tell from the image if it is "too fancy". The really simple ones with a bulb are the best for this stuff. I have fancy LED ones for checking injectors and so on. They are MUCH too sensitive for this type of simple draw check. Your local Autozone or whatever should carry a cheap test light. I'm thinking under 10 bux...


Do you happen to have a picture of one? Was hoping to just order one on amazon instead of driving to autozone.

T, itís not a matter of charging the battery. It just dies quicker than normal just sitting there. By quicker as in I can see the Volts go down on the dash in a matter of hours.


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Old December 11th, 2019, 08:17 PM   #10
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Mckay PL26001. Google it and comes up on amazon and ebay etc. it is a simple bulb type test light.

Looks like it might not be made any more but this is the type you want. Cheap chinese stuff is fine, too. Just make it sure it uses a good old normal filament type bulb.
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Old December 12th, 2019, 09:10 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmitriy5099 View Post
Do you happen to have a picture of one? Was hoping to just order one on amazon instead of driving to autozone.

T, itís not a matter of charging the battery. It just dies quicker than normal just sitting there. By quicker as in I can see the Volts go down on the dash in a matter of hours.


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Could the alternator / regulator be discharging ?

This is why I asked if our bikes will run without battery?
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Old December 12th, 2019, 09:13 AM   #12
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Could the alternator / regulator be discharging ?



This is why I asked if our bikes will run without battery?

I had my Voltage Regulator Rectifier replaced about a year ago for Rickís MOSFET. Donít think that would be the issue. On top of that the battery jumps right back up when I start the bike.


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Old December 12th, 2019, 10:39 PM   #13
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Mckay PL26001. Google it and comes up on amazon and ebay etc. it is a simple bulb type test light.



Looks like it might not be made any more but this is the type you want. Cheap chinese stuff is fine, too. Just make it sure it uses a good old normal filament type bulb.


Ordered a similar one today that should be delivered tomorrow. Will report back on my results.


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Old December 15th, 2019, 12:31 PM   #14
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I had my Voltage Regulator Rectifier replaced about a year ago for Rickís MOSFET. Donít think that would be the issue. On top of that the battery jumps right back up when I start the bike.
Just make sure to keep an open mind that the Reg/Rec may still be a problem. Electronics fail in all sorts of ways and internal shorting could be what happened. It may still work for charging the battery, but may be the source of the draw when the engine is off.
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Old December 15th, 2019, 12:34 PM   #15
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Just make sure to keep an open mind that the Reg/Rec may still be a problem. Electronics fail in all sorts of ways and internal shorting could be what happened. It may still work for charging the battery, but may be the source of the draw when the engine is off.

Something definitely happened after pushing the bike at the track day and it taxed the electrical system.


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