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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys, I have read every forum post on this topic as it has been beat to death and I still cant nail down the issue.

Bought the bike about a month ago, 08 1098 Base with a rebuilt title from a chain break that cracked the crank case and got the bike totalled. Story appears to check out as there are no signs of it being dropped anywhere and some scuffs on parts near the chain. When i looked at the bike it had no issues starting, rode it around the block, turned it off, it sat for an hour then it started and i rode it home. Sounds great when it runs. Next day had a slight issue starting and got the battery a little melty, then third day no start.

I did the motolectric wire kit but the bike still had start issues. I could jump it to start it for a week or so but the starter was obviously wearing. So did a bit of a tear down and replaced starter motor, sprag clutch, spark plugs, air filter, oil and filter (obviously) and reg/rec. Got it all back together and topped off fluids.

This morning i started up the bike, it went through two crank cycles with no start and then i hooked up the battery charger and it started in about 2 seconds like it should. Figured it just needed to circulate fluids. I let it warm up to temp as im flushing the coolant and then shut it down. Let it cool off, drained coolant and was fiddling with my new tank mount. It may have been running a little rough but it was hard to tell as the tail and gas tank were loose and rattling a little.

When i topped off the cooling system with distilled water for one final flush before engine ice, the bike refuses to start. It cranks and turns fine but cant start or even fire and eventually drains the battery from attempting. I checked spark and it appears one of the coils might be a little weak but i would think it should at least kick a little when trying to start. I have coils on order anyways but not sure what the issue could be at this point as all the common stuff has been sorted at this point to my knowledge. The fuel pump makes the proper noise when the bike is keyed on and theres no swirling in the tank so it should be feeding the injectors fine.

Sorry for the length of this post but i really have tried everything I've found online at this point and hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. Thanks
 

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You mentioned that you have changed a lot of stuff, but no mention of testing or changing the battery? If the bike starts every time you use a jumper box /charger, but not without it, it sounds like a bad battery or faulty / loose cabling. When replacing electrical components, always inspect the condition of the cables and connectors that attach to them. If there is any burning or discoloration, which is often the case with the regulator wiring and connectors, remove and replace the suspect cabling and connectors.

I know you've said you changed the battery cabling, but get an ohmmeter on that and test that too.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You mentioned that you have changed a lot of stuff, but no mention of testing or changing the battery? If the bike starts every time you use a jumper box /charger, but not without it, it sounds like a bad battery or faulty / loose cabling. When replacing electrical components, always inspect the condition of the cables and connectors that attach to them. If there is any burning or discoloration, which is often the case with the regulator wiring and connectors, remove and replace the suspect cabling and connectors.

I know you've said you changed the battery cabling, but get an ohmmeter on that and test that too.
Tested and verified. Also i have 2 new batteries that i have been alternating. A shorai and a standard agm to make sure its not a battery issue. That was step one sorry i didnt mention it.
 

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What voltage regulator did you use? Brand and part#? And can you take pictures of the regulator's harness. Throwing money at this is not going to solve the problem. Finding the problem will solve it.
You say the bike will not start without a jumper box or charger. So let's focus on why that is. Bad battery, but you say you have two new units. Faulty wiring, but you say you've tested.

If you leave the bike on a battery tender overnight, then remove that tender, will it start on its own?
Test the battery voltage at the terminals with the bike running and let us know what it is.
Test the battery voltage at the terminals with the bike off and let us know what it is.
Let the bike sit overnight, with no tender attached, test the battery voltage at the terminals the following morning and let us know what it is.
I am aware that the dash display has a voltmeter but don't use that. Use an actual voltmeter and measure at the battery terminals.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What voltage regulator did you use? Brand and part#? And can you take pictures of the regulator's harness. Throwing money at this is not going to solve the problem. Finding the problem will solve it.
You say the bike will not start without a jumper box or charger. So let's focus on why that is. Bad battery, but you say you have two new units. Faulty wiring, but you say you've tested.

If you leave the bike on a battery tender overnight, then remove that tender, will it start on its own?
Test the battery voltage at the terminals with the bike running and let us know what it is.
Test the battery voltage at the terminals with the bike off and let us know what it is.
Let the bike sit overnight, with no tender attached, test the battery voltage at the terminals the following morning and let us know what it is.
I am aware that the dash display has a voltmeter but don't use that. Use an actual voltmeter and measure at the battery terminals.
I replaced the vreg with a ricks hot shot.


The 3 pin harness on the bike to the vreg was fried so i replaced that with 3 single poles. One wire at a time so they didn't get mixed up, etc.

The bike wasnt starting without a jump box. Now it isn't starting at all with or without jump box. Ive charged up the batteries and so forth every time i try to start it. I will check the overnight voltage shortly with the independent voltmeter, but according to the voltmeter on the dash the reg seems to be working fine.

What i have repaired so far was definitely necessary as the sprag clutch was completely chewed up and the starter was slipping. The original vreg had a crack in the electronic shielding looked to be from overheating and the wiring harness was melted together. The starter motor itself showed a lot of wear on the shaft gear. The other things were simple tune up items, ie spark plugs, filters, etc.

The thing is before i pulled the tank and had the bike disconnected from a battery for a couple weeks, the bike would almost be over fueling as i tried to start it. I had an afterfire and my garage reaked of gas. Now there's barely any fuel smell at all of i stick my nose up the exhaust. None of the lines were pinched and i can hear the pump priming, which is why I'm wondering if it's a pc3 map or ecu issue.

Either way I'll check the battery for drain. Thanks for the responses guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What voltage regulator did you use? Brand and part#? And can you take pictures of the regulator's harness. Throwing money at this is not going to solve the problem. Finding the problem will solve it.
You say the bike will not start without a jumper box or charger. So let's focus on why that is. Bad battery, but you say you have two new units. Faulty wiring, but you say you've tested.

If you leave the bike on a battery tender overnight, then remove that tender, will it start on its own?
Test the battery voltage at the terminals with the bike running and let us know what it is.
Test the battery voltage at the terminals with the bike off and let us know what it is.
Let the bike sit overnight, with no tender attached, test the battery voltage at the terminals the following morning and let us know what it is.
I am aware that the dash display has a voltmeter but don't use that. Use an actual voltmeter and measure at the battery terminals.
Just as a small update, i have a shorai on the bike. I charged it up completely 2 days ago after the bike wouldnt start and its been on the bike since. I put the charger on it quickly before leaving for work and it lit up fully charged within 3 seconds. So i doubt there is a battery drain. I can verify with voltmeter later but I really dont think its battery related anymore.
 

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Only thing I see here not mentioned is spark plugs. These bikes can be fussy about them and do not like being run for short amounts of time without being ridden to keep the lugs free of fouling. Throw a fresh set in and you may be pleasantly surprised.
 

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Does it have a quick shift? since they cut the spark if your ground or power to the unit is bad (intermittent) you get get what you describe. What is the power commander doing? can you take it off to run off the stock ecu? Can you verify you have a spark at the plug or check the coils?
 

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check your batt voltage before and during cranking. before should be 13v ish during it shouldn’t go below 10v. If it does there might not be enough volt to fire the plugs. This would be starter draw issue. If additional batt or jump box gives higher voltage then your on the right track.
Also might be a good idea to pressure test fuel pump. GL
 

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I am with ELTwin on this. I suspect there is some resistance in your wiring, which may even have led to the original wiring issues. The multi-pin plugs just behind the battery worth a look.
And the plugs can 'foul' if the engine is run for a short period, as he mentioned. Much better with the Termis and ECU (he and I both run this on ours) to only start it before you ride it. Not switch it on and off. They receive a lot of fuel on the cold-running circuit and the small plugs don't like to be switched off while still on the cold/rich circuit.
So a new set of MAR-10Js or suitable iridiums worth a try. And get the plugs via the plug manufacturer, not the bike manufacturer, or you'll pay double.
But check carefully all the heavy-duty wiring connections - live and earth. Obviously you have attended to those on the starter and battery, but the top of the solenoid (just in front of the battery) is a common point where heat is generated by some resistance, which loosens the terminals. Then they have more resistance, they get even hotter, then you can end up with this symptom.
But just loosen/check/clean/tighten the heavy wiring cables and see if that helps. A close look where the earth connects to the engine on the LHS for example. Just remember it is a circuit, and all terminals - live and earth - need to have a good conductivity to start this type of engine. As in, a large twin with high compression.
Good luck. (And hi people).
 

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Gents, OP mentions in the first post that they already installed a fresh set of plugs. I would hope that they used the factory plugs. OP also upgraded all of the heavy gauge electrical cabling. I honestly had never heard of Motoelectric till OP mentioned them. I also suspect cabling / wiring as the culprit. Just need the OP to actually test bit by bit to rule out anything added, or something that may have been overlooked. But that involves a methodical process.

I honestly just pulled mine apart 3 months ago and did a major service (t-belts, plugs, oil, both filters, front fork seals and new oil, new front and rear brakes, air filter clean, thermistor replacement in tank, coolant flush), new battery, upgraded voltage regulator to newer panigale unit, added Bazzaz F-fi TC, new oil pressure sensor, and inspected all electrical cabling after addressing melted connectors and wiring with the regulator. Bike fired up in one shot. So this is all still fresh in my head. The electrical system on this platform is much more simple than the systems on my newer bikes. Need to test things before you start replacing fuses and components.
 

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That you say you had an issue at the connector that was getting hot could be an issue. If that connector was getting hot ,and melting, its possible that the wire itself is cooked too. This will cause resistance in the wire. And your charging system wont work properly. I had this happen on my GSX-R. I had to rewire some, and I bypassed the cooked connector, and hardwired my REG/REC to my stator.
 
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