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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So hey. Problems never end on the 1098 world...

So my bike's one cylinder is not working well. especially on low rpms and when i go from standing position it struggles and does not sound synchronized. service shop said it must be something on the electrical side or the gas mixture. before leaving it there on monday, i removed the plugs to check them and they were like this:



the black one is from the vertical cylinder, which is new (the cylinder) because it was burning oil last year and ducati gave me new cylinder piston as good will warranty.

i swapped them (put the bad one on the horizontal) and decided to get it to the service today. until the ride back to the service, the spark plug cleaned a little bit. the black thing was slightly removed. then i put a good spark plug, but the problem was still there. bike left on the shop. i also tried working it with the stock ecu (it has the termignoni full) and cleaned the wiring connectors a bit. nothing.

and here i am again with my bike not working. what do you guys think it could be? just to start estimating the costs... the black color didnt seem like oil but it could be. it was not like the other time i remember it. also it is dry black...
 

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It's common for the horizontal cylinder to run rich, but not the vertical.

I like the blocked injector idea. They're easy to pull out and clean with an ultrasonic cleaner.

I'd like to hear what the bike sounds like when idling.
 

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Me think you have a similar problem as I did which eventually will transfer to a knackered oil ring on a piston or a worn valve seal/guide

Compression check time
 

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Me think you have a similar problem as I did which eventually will transfer to a knackered oil ring on a piston or a worn valve seal/guide
The OP mentioned that it has a new piston which I assume includes the rings, on the cylinder in question.

Valve guide seals worn enough to coat the plug black, would produce A LOT of smoke out the exhaust, enough that hopefully the OP would see it and make a comment to that effect.

Compression check time
Yes, low compression can cause this issue for sure. Though it would suck for a brand new build to have a problem. Perhaps the service shop made a huge mistake installing that piston?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well somewhat good news. took it yesterday from the service shop. he told me that he adjusted the mixture balance between cylinders (?) and he set the fuel ratio to zero from +10 (??). also he told me to ride it a bit to clean up. ok...

returning home (city ride) the bike was really better at starts and low rpm. today i decided to ride it for 20km. checked the plug before ride, black... at the ride the bike was more powerful than ever. i don't know why, second gear was nothing like before. wheelied too easily without clutch! returned home, checked plug again:



all good now. i will perform a compression test next year. i really don't know what the problem might have been, i will discuss it further with the service shop:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
spoke too soon perhaps? yeah...

still have problems on my 1098 starting cold. I start it up, it runs, if i shut it off after 1-2 minutes (lets say i stop at the gas station after my home...) then to start its awful. The vertical probably gets super rich somehow, and to burn the excess fuel i have to rev it to 5K, gas smoke from the pipes (100% gas not water, no cracked head that is checked), then it can keep the idle without turning off.

The bike is in the service shop again, I went yesterday he told me it is better and to go see. He balanced the cylinders and indeed we started-stopped it 3 times no problems. But then he told me to take it for a ride, tried to start it, again rich, 1 cylinder not working, it never started unless we revved to 5K again to clear the gas out of the cylinder.....

Wtf with this termi full map. I suspect when the outside temp is below 10C, this happens. Before taking it to the service i had the injectors tested, they told me that they were ok, normally dirty and they just cleaned them, and to look somewhere else. I also tried the stock ecu, same thing.

The service will check further, will swap ignitions and coils etc and check temp sensors....

Should i just live with it? I am afraid of a worse future damage. If i start it the very first time its ok, and hot its ok also. It also runs rough below 4K but thats the "character" right? sigh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
small update... started the bike this morning at the service shop (1 time) huge gas smoke cloud, but the bike was working ok... didn't test off-on again, he will investigate.

suspicions, there was gas inside the cyl, the spark was dry from overnight, it blew it all. we ll see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yeah it all points to that from all these indications. it will be weird though because the shop that i took them for cleaning ruled it out, said the injectors were ok. we will see. the service guy told me he will swap them also.
 

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I bet you've got a leaky injector...
This. And this is what ate my motor last year.

The injector needs to be leakdown tested. Not pressure/flow tested. When the bike is off, the injector will seep fuel into the cylinder. So when you go to start it- you do some lovely damage(over time).
 

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Just pop one of your injectors out of the top of the airbox and let it sit overnight with a stack of paper towels under it. That should let you know if it's leaking or not and it's easy for YOU to do.

Leaking shower injectors are quite common with standard ethanol enhanced fuels. They get gummed up over time and need to be cleaned with an ultrasonic cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
well.

I went to the service a week ago to get it back as he said it was ok, he only "balanced the 2 cylinders" (as he said that the vertical was not getting as hot as the other on idle), we started the bike 4-5 times it was ok, but after the 5th time it somehow again went too rich and it needed a bit of gas to stabilize the idle rpms. I decided to leave it there, told him to check more things (injectors again etc).

Another week passed and i needed the bike, so i took it and said i d take it back in a few days... Nothing more done to the bike since last week, he didn't have the time.

the thing is that the bike is transformed... Perfect idle, perfect on low rpms (2000-4000), ALWAYS starting up good, no smokes in the back (gas).... I 've never seen it work like that in 2,5 years that i have it really, and especially since last summer that i put the full termi. We discussed it with the service guy and he said to leave it as it is and if something comes up again we will see. I am happy once again though :D

So what is this balance really? he told me something about fine adjusting the compression and gas between cylinders. Any details? Any other comments on these?
 

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I would have the injectors leakdown tested man. I would be really hesitant to keep playing with it until you know for sure whether or not the injectors are leaking. If they are, it will do bad things to your motor.
 

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I think there will be a difference between a gravity test like Tye mentioned, and a true leakdown.
But I could be wrong, as I wasnt present when my injectors were done.

But to me, the injector will see pressure, and have to hold that pressure x amount of time. At least that is how any other leakdown test works.
 

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So what is this balance really? he told me something about fine adjusting the compression and gas between cylinders. Any details? Any other comments on these?
Most throttle bodies on Ducati's have an air bypass hole. This passageway goes from above the throttle plate to below the throttle plate. Its there to balance the two cylinders at idle because the throttle plates themselves don't necessarily have the dexterity for making this critical balance happen. Inside each of those bypass holes, there is a screw which can open or close them.

Tuning is actually quite simple, you just need two vacuum gauges (I use an electronic device) which plug into vacuum lines which come off the throttle bodies for the evap canister.

What the technician does is balance the throttle plates first, then uses those air bypass screws to do the rest of the balancing. It's a critical process to making the engine run properly and solves a lot of the stalling issues with these machines as well.
 
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