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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all, sorry if this has been answered, I searched but found nothing super similar.

I have a 2008 1098, 14.5k miles, just had the 15k service done, had some starter issues so they also replaced the starter clutch, sprag, etc. I was hoping this issue might be fixed with that or new plugs, timing or valve adjustment or something, but it wasnt.

My bike will ride fine for 5-10 miles then start stalling at a stop (in neutral or in gear), each time it stalls, itll start back up but wont go as far without stalling again (5 miles til stall, 3 miles til stall, then 1 mile, etc) and each time itll seem harder to start. then after the 4th or 5th stall, it wont start back up. It is then possible to pop start it but will stall seconds later and not start back up.

Seems exactly like something is draining the battery, but the weird thing is, after stalling, the battery is reading a perfect 12.5-12.6 volts off and 14.2-14.3 volts when the bike is started.

I just got raped for $3100 at the dealer who is kinda far away, I really dont want to spend more money and dont even have the time to haul it back up there anyway. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thank you!
 

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Is this the same problem since when you bought it but worse? You had 14.5k miles last year so doesn't sound like you've done much riding.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is this the same problem since when you bought it but worse? You had 14.5k miles last year so doesn't sound like you've done much riding.
I dont remember it stalling much when I first got it, It also seemed to run alot better when I switched from a lithium battery back to a normal one so I thought that was the problem.

And correct, Only rode it 3 times so far this season, it has 14.6 or so now, im not sure. I only put a few hundred miles on it in a year and a half. Its extremely hard for me to ride, I work 75-85+ hours a week at 2 jobs and I also own/manage 5 rental properties (one of which recently had a big fire so ive been there literally every free night I have after work for the past 3-4 months) and I bodybuild, so on top of being so busy, everywhere I go, I have to take a bunch of tools and food with me. I shouldn't have ever bought the thing but its been my dream bike for awhile and even just looking at its beauty here and there in my garage makes me happy lol. I have an Acura NSX that gets the same exact treatment lol, I put 220 miles on that thing last year.

Check for vacuum leaks at your airbox throttle body assembly and your intake manyfolds (use threebond). Disassemble, check and reasemble.
Thank you sir! I will try to look into this ASAP!
 

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Timing will cause this issue if its off. Common problem with these bikes. Also, TPS reset, and throttle body sync can help the issue. Definitely take it back and tell them to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Hasnt stalled in awhile, embarrassingly enough, I think that was just due to low gas/being on hill, etc because each time I was low. it hasnt happened since.

Still having problems starting it though. I just took some videos this evening:

^This is 1st attempt to start, battery read 12.5 volts before this attempt. That loud bang at the end is a backfire


^This is 3rd or 4th attempt, battery lost some charge. Not sure if this video will help diagnose anything but figured id post it anyway.

After that video, i put it on the tender for 30 minutes, tried again and it read 12.6-12.7 volts and it started instantly within half a second of hitting the switch




Ive rode this thing 5 miles to the gym after a full charge, came out, and it wouldnt start, Ive also rode this home a week ago from a friends house, let it sit for a few hours, tried again and it started right up, then tried next few nights (never putting it on tender) and started right up. Its a total coin flip if this thing will start, im scared to ride/park it anywhere :(

Any suggestions/input?
 

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As discussed in another similar thread - check all the heavy power cables are tight. Both positive and earth. On the battery (obviously) the starter motor (careful with this one as its insulation is a bit fragile) and the earth to the engine.
The terminals on the solenoid (cylinder just in front of battery box with two terminals retained with 10mm hex nuts) can loosen over time, which generates heat and worsens the resistance problem. Tighten these carefully - both upper and lower nuts on each terminal, with two spanners.
The multi-pin block connectors just to the rear of the battery also need to be checked, as these can develop resistance over time, and these bikes are getting on now.
But, as suggested elsewhere, the dealer who took all those $$ from you should simply fix it, although I understand the distance issue with taking it back to them.
All the other checks suggested worth following up, but the TPS reset should have been done by the dealer when they removed the 'SERV' icon, if that was due. Certainly for that much money. Perhaps ring them and have a chat.
But if I can just remind people - mine has had zero issues with its starting system since 2007, now after 92,000 kms, so I continue to be amazed at owners' preparedness to replace the expensive starter clutch hardware.
It shouldn't need replacing at such low mileages.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As discussed in another similar thread - check all the heavy power cables are tight. Both positive and earth. On the battery (obviously) the starter motor (careful with this one as its insulation is a bit fragile) and the earth to the engine.
The terminals on the solenoid (cylinder just in front of battery box with two terminals retained with 10mm hex nuts) can loosen over time, which generates heat and worsens the resistance problem. Tighten these carefully - both upper and lower nuts on each terminal, with two spanners.
The multi-pin block connectors just to the rear of the battery also need to be checked, as these can develop resistance over time, and these bikes are getting on now.
But, as suggested elsewhere, the dealer who took all those $$ from you should simply fix it, although I understand the distance issue with taking it back to them.
All the other checks suggested worth following up, but the TPS reset should have been done by the dealer when they removed the 'SERV' icon, if that was due. Certainly for that much money. Perhaps ring them and have a chat.
But if I can just remind people - mine has had zero issues with its starting system since 2007, now after 92,000 kms, so I continue to be amazed at owners' preparedness to replace the expensive starter clutch hardware.
It shouldn't need replacing at such low mileages.
Good luck.
Im at like 14,7xx miles so the service light hasnt come one yet. I'm thinking about hauling it back to the dealer.. I cant figure this out. I checked everything around the battery/starter motor, everything is tight.

Ive been keeping track of battery volts every time I start it...

monday: 12.56 volts, not on tender, it started
tuesday: 12.55 volts, not on tender, it started
today 4pm: 12.51 volts, not on tender, it almost started, but didnt.
today 4:01pm (right after 1st attempt): 12.00 volts, not even close to starting
today: 4:30pm: ate, came back and somehow it was back up to 12.45 volts without putting on tender. (how does this happen?) not even close to starting.
today 6pm: 12.56 volts, connected to tender, started right up.


Is there ANY chance this is a bad battery? The battery is only 2 months old and seems to be holding charge.

Any chance this is the regulator? I replaced it last year with an OEM one off ebay, but I only recently learned about the recall. It wasnt fixed on this bike, there is no heat shield. Does this issue sound like it could be the regulator? (Hasn't happened recently, but ive also had headlight/gauges shut off while riding 2 or 3 times last year, and ive had a sudden loss of [what felt like 75% loss of] horsepower last year, but hasnt happened since 15k service)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Im at like 14,7xx miles so the service light hasnt come one yet. I'm thinking about hauling it back to the dealer.. I cant figure this out. I checked everything around the battery/starter motor, everything is tight.

Ive been keeping track of battery volts every time I start it...

monday: 12.56 volts, not on tender, it started
tuesday: 12.55 volts, not on tender, it started
today 4pm: 12.51 volts, not on tender, it almost started, but didnt.
today 4:01pm (right after 1st attempt): 12.00 volts, not even close to starting
today: 4:30pm: ate, came back and somehow it was back up to 12.45 volts without putting on tender. (how does this happen?) not even close to starting.
today 6pm: 12.56 volts, connected to tender, started right up.


Is there ANY chance this is a bad battery? The battery is only 2 months old and seems to be holding charge.

Any chance this is the regulator? I replaced it last year with an OEM one off ebay, but I only recently learned about the recall. It wasnt fixed on this bike, there is no heat shield. Does this issue sound like it could be the regulator? (Hasn't happened recently, but ive also had headlight/gauges shut off while riding 2 or 3 times last year, and ive had a sudden loss of [what felt like 75% loss of] horsepower last year, but hasnt happened since 15k service)
Taking back to the dealer tomorrow afternoon. I keep yall updated if anyones interested
 

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Hi Millerdecaxc. Your problem sounds like the regulator, the wiring to it or the lack of heat shield. I think you should get a heat shield fItted ASAP.
I have an 09 1098R with 25,000ml and was told after a daytime ride that my lights were flickering on and off. A few days later I had my headlight, instrument panel and indicators switch off but the engine still run ok. I took the fairing off to check all the connectors but didn’t look as far down as the regulator(reg.) I took the bike around the block and all seemed ok but then had the same issue. I checked the electrics again and this allowed the bike to cool down. I went for another ride and had the same thing happen at the same junction. I felt it must be a temperature issue, so checked the forums and found lots of posts on this.
My bike does have the reg heat shield fitted but I found the connector between the reg and Stator had overheated causing all the yellow wires on the reg side of the socket to turn brown. I initially thought that they were meant to be brown on one side of the socket as the overheating was so uniform but when the reg was removed I could see the last half inch was still yellow. This is a very common issue with the 1098 and is down to a cheap white plug and socket connecting AC power from the Stator to the reg. Apparently the connectors get dirty inside the plug and build up resistance, resistance builds up heat and more resistance etc.until you get charred wires or a fire. Check the colour of your wires, unplug and replug the connector regularly or hard wire it as I have done. This will eliminate a future problem.
I read reports of the American Mofset reg being a lot more stable than the Ducati OEM unit. So I read up on the electrical values of the OEM unit and bought a Mofset 3 phase reg to suit. (Mosfet Regulator Rectifier For Triumph Sprint ST 1050 2005-2010 OEM # T1300560) It was lots cheaper than the OEM too and has done 5000ml since fitting.
The plug in socket is the same but the mounting holes were 90* out. Meaning a mounting plate had to be made. This I made with sheet aluminium and coach bolts. Hope this helps. Good luck.
 

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Quick reference my battery is closer to 14.1 volts when running. You can check voltage with black button if you press down on it. It should show what the battery is reading.
 

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Yes, even a new battery can go bad or be bad from the beginning. It’s not holding a charge. Plus, the battery is easy as a try.
 
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