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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2006 1098s with 22,000km and my tech is suggesting I need a new clutch kit when I took it in to get a 14T front sprocket installed. My idea was to experiment with gearing down to make it bit more civilised at lower speeds but he was saying is more likely the clutch is knackered but I have limited experience with these things so not sure what to do.

I dont believe there is anything weird happening with the clutch, it is not grabbing or slipping and just makes the typical Ducati rattly ringing bells sound at idle - which I love. I rang a tech from a previous place I went to and he suggested is not likely the clutch and is just typical 1098 being high compression and hard to get on with at low speed. Live with it more or less.

Any suggestions out there?

I don't mind spending the cashola but need to know there is value and results will be justified
 

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The standard test for detecting worn-out clutch plate friction material is to watch for slippage when accelerating in top gear. Some people are just harder on clutches than others, so service mileage will vary over a wide range.

When I turn my bike over to a dealer, I know that I'm gonna get screwed with— I just don't know how ...
 

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I have a 2006 1098s with 22,000km and my tech is suggesting I need a new clutch kit when I took it in to get a 14T front sprocket installed. My idea was to experiment with gearing down to make it bit more civilised at lower speeds but he was saying is more likely the clutch is knackered but I have limited experience with these things so not sure what to do.

I dont believe there is anything weird happening with the clutch, it is not grabbing or slipping and just makes the typical Ducati rattly ringing bells sound at idle - which I love. I rang a tech from a previous place I went to and he suggested is not likely the clutch and is just typical 1098 being high compression and hard to get on with at low speed. Live with it more or less.

Any suggestions out there?

I don't mind spending the cashola but need to know there is value and results will be justified
If there is no indication of slippage under hard acceleration, and no "chatter" when making an aggressive launch from a stop, then I'd be a bit skeptical about the "suggestion".
 

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Two sides to this. Yes, they run a bit rough down low, but a fair bit of that can be alleviated by resetting the TPS, making sure the valve clearances are all good, synchronising the throttle openings (very important while the airbox is off..) then (lastly) setting the 'air screws' on the throttle bodies. This low-speed running also varies according to which ECU and exhaust you are running.
The clutches wear out in about 30,000 kms (18,000 mi) and there's no way around that - simply a function of the soft (light) material. Slippage is one indicator of the state of the clutch, but on the aluminium housing and friction plates 'dry' models the backlash between plate tags and housing slots is the primary wear indicator. Damage will be obvious on the friction plate tags after high mileage.
Sometimes before they start slipping they get a bit sticky, or make a squeal as you accelerate, but basically start looking to replace the housing and the friction plates about the mileage mentioned. The tags lose width, the slots widen and develop notches, which then interfere with smooth clutch operation.
Many have fitted the 14T front sprocket, but that can mean doing many more gear changes, as it closes all the gear ratios up. However it slightly extends the wheelbase which is in the right direction in terms of weight bias.
I have settled on 15/39 as the ideal ratio for me (and Phillip Island) on the 1098S, as in slightly 'shorter' gearing than stock - not as much as the 14T front - but that is easier on my slightly-longer swing arm. Very limited with gearing changes on the single-sided/eccentric-adjusted models.
Be aware of the impact changed gearing has on the rear ride height, which should be measured before changing the rear eccentric, or you will be altering more than just the gearing. From one who has done a bit of this...
 

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Down low below 3k rpm the 1098 is not real happy. No Ducati superbike is for that matter wouldn't put that on the clutch. Mine gets really snatchy throttle and makes it tough to be smooth. As mentioned above if youre accelerating and it's slipping meaning the rpm jumps, but the bikes is not moving at the same speed. I would say that is your indicator that the clutch is on it's way out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yep - got the year wrong it's a 2008 model

So thanks heaps for the input and comments to respond;

When the clutch grabs it feels snatchy but it seems more like the engine just not happy below 3000rpm than anything I could believe was clutch related. As in the take-up seems smooth like a clutch should be doing and the rest is all down to the engine really being a pig having a whinge yet have had the engine tuned to suit the Slash cut Termis and a high flow air filter. Makes me really nervous going slow around a tight roundabout as it just jerks and coughs about. Place that did the dyno tune is supposed to be reputable and was recommended. It was much better after the tune, put it that way but still some work to do.

Everyone says all 1098s are pigs at low speed - but are there any replacement cams or piston compression mods one can do that make it bit more civilised? By the sound of it I would ideally like the response of the Multistrada or Hypermotard engine. Many would ask - why did you buy it in the first place? Good question and fact is I love the bike. I love the styling. I had 25mm riser bars fitted and quite happy with the riding position, I dont get tired or sore wrists. Just dont need all that power above 7000rpm. Not interested in going warp speed these days.


couple of new gremlins maybe could also get some help with;

1 - After riding for about 20-30mins and pull up to a stop light, the engine idle hunts around 2500rpm. Give it a few hard high revs and it seems to settle down to normal 1600rpm setting. Little bit of over-run crackle run from the exhaust.

2 - Same again - after riding for about 20mins the engine warning light comes on and I lose coolant temp reading - just goes to flat bars IE; no reading. Intermittently comes back. Always comes back when started cold and the process repeats

3 - Trouble hot starting after about 5-10mins of sitting eg; getting fuel or quick shop stop etc. Starts briefly but dies straight away. When it does start with bit of assistive throttle opening - I give it heaps revs and it eventually restores normal idle. Yet cold start is no issue at all.



Could get something else but can't bare to part with it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also -- have purchased a 14T front sprocket and was about to try this in an attempt to get the engine rpm lifted a bit higher during slow moves. You think the 15/39 is better combo? I anticipate the rear sprocket change is more expensive due to the additional bits the rear has to carry.
 
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