Post a video.

 

Was thinking I would need too. How do I go about that here?

 

Use utube and post the link.

 

Alright. Threw bat on charger for a bit. Will get a video up as soon as possible.

 

Another important detail I failed to add; when bike would start it would not idle. Very rough and choppy. Thought it was the old battery. I had 3 different places check and they said it was good, but figured I’d play it safe and replace it anyway. Old one was 180cca.

 

Here a video of my attempt to start today.
https://youtu.be/5tatElNpaYs

 

The purpose of posting videos is to hear and see the starting procedure. Your video has to much external noise.

 

I suspect the OP bought a non-runner and thought it wouldn't be too hard or expensive to get it running. Good luck. I also doubt very much that the starter was actually removed. Let me guess-2007 model?

This bike needs to go to a proper shop that knows the make and model very well.

 

The bike was ridden to me by the previous owner with an admitted rough idle. And I personally removed the starter, disassembled and cleaned the starter assembly. I’m an aviation technician by trade. Not my first rodeo. I would greatly appreciate if you guys would refrain from completely unproductive responses such as the previous one. Thank you

 

As for the response about the video, I apologize but I unfortunately live in front of a major intersection, thus the background noise. May try to do a late night recording and see if that helps

 

Then why don't you tell us how to fix it instead of asking?

 

Model year 2008

 

Haha, you must be really bored to be instigating like this

 

My apologies and correction. You bought a barely running bike and thought it wouldn't be too hard or expensive to get it running properly. Good luck.

The bike needs to go to a shop that knows this make and model well.

 

Bike has already been looked at by 2 Ducati master techs. They’re the only 2 in 100-150 mile radius of me and they both work at the same shop. Looking to avoid spending a bunch of money, because as most will agree, master techs are expensive. Hence the reason for me seeking help here.

 

If you don’t want to help that’s perfectly fine, but please don’t chastise me for not wanting to fork over that kind of cash.

 

That's a pretty slow turning 1098 for sure.

Did you test to see if it actually sparks?
When you remove one of the air runners you can check in the air box to see if the fuel injectors work.

Try starting it with the clutch pulled in and give it a little bit of throttle, does that improve the situation.

 

The techs checked for spark and gave me the green light on that, but I can check it again. I did however physically remove the injectors to make sure they pulsed on each stroke during turn over. And also tried holding the clutch and turning to different degrees of throttle input.

 

Did you try jump starting it?

 

As in using another vehicle's battery to get it started, thus not push or bump start it.

 

Yes. Several times and it worked once, but barely. I live on a hill so I’m going to attempt to bump start just to isolate starter circuit. If it starts a runs I’ll know that’s the problem

 

batt voltage

What is the voltage while cranking? If it goes below 10volts there might not be enough to power the coils. It’s a good way to troubleshoot the starter too. Best luck

 

What is the voltage while cranking? If it goes below 10volts there might not be enough to power the coils. It’s a good way to troubleshoot the starter too. Best luck

It was holding around the 11v mark with the new battery. I did try cranking it with a charger attached later to prevent frying a brand new battery.

 

Voltage at starting should be around 13 if it's less than the bike will struggle to fire. Also these bikes are not cheap. Parts and maintenance gets expensive quickly. Sometimes if you want it done right take it to a specialist. They can also tell you if anything else is wrong.

 

Battery did start off at 13v as you may be able to see on the dash in the video. Mind you the dash isn’t the most reliable gauge. I think that’s more because of the really low refresh rate though, not an inaccurate reading at the given moment.

 

To start, I notice your dash display shows "SERV" when you turn the key on, followed by "BATT" after that. Given you've replaced the battery and had master techs look at the bike, I hate to suggest looking at your manual to see what those terms signify and what might cause them to be displayed. However.... putting a volt meter directly on the battery can't hurt anything.

A 4th gear bump start is a good idea, but if it does start and needs to be kept at high RPM to stay running, you haven't identified the problem.

If your recording was of an automobile, with a good charge on the battery, I'd say it sounds like it could be seriously advanced ignition timing (lighting the fire too soon, causing it to fight the starter motor). If timing is badly advanced that could account for slow turn-over and needing to keep it revved up.

I don't know if there are timing marks on Ducati flywheel(s) so you can use a strobe light to check timing, but if not maybe it's possible to put a timing wheel on the end of the crankshaft with a pointer to locate TDC (either cylinder) and position a camera to record either a stobe light or spark plug firing event and TDC for the cylinder at the time it fires, you should be able to tell how soon BTDC it's lighting off. Sounds difficult, but clicking on "settings" (the gear icon) for your YouTube video allows you to slow a video down to quarter speed, where it might be possible to make that determination. I don't have enough experience with Ducati ignitions to know what might cause something like that... back to the manual!

 

Not sure why you are posting. You obviously don't know anything about Ducatis... opcorn:

 

First I love your bike. I have an s model myself. So many things go wrong on this bike that you will get all sorts of non-help. No one can diagnose a problem like this without testing and baseline results. If this bike was running in perfect condition and you rode 15000 miles a year you can expect to spend 3000 to 5000 dollars in tires, chains, oil, and valve and belt drive. Worth every penny. However - If we could afford that and were the type to utilize the dealer for all maintenance. We would all be riding v4s's. You have a long tough road to learn how to check the belts and ignition yourself. As others have said start with the service light. Has the exhaust valve been removed? That will cause an error. You must keep on hand a starter solenoid, Voltage regulator, oil pressure sensor, and start looking for a good cheap radiator...

I have had exactly the problem you had in your video. The ecu will retune the starting fuel if the bike does not start or is run for short time an not allowed to warm up fully. In my case after changing the solenoid I noticed rust on the backside of the battery terminals. Brush or sand bot the terminals the posts and the screws on the battery. Use a trickle charger and allow to charge overnight.
Test: Does the engine spin over faster? y/n
Test: when you push the starter button once and release does the starter continue to try and crank the bike? y/n
Test: When you turn key to "ON" do you hear the fuel pump turn on. Y/N
Test: Put enough gas into the tank to see it! It hates low fuel...
Never turn the throttle during starting!

More involved:

Inspect belts with lower cylinder TDC the slots in the cam drivers should line up. They will not be lined up on the vert cylinder on a 1098. Look for missing teeth on belts and pulleys.

Pull the fuel pump and bench test. (There is a small tube at the base of the pump that will fail) Replace the Fuel filter Now!
Reinstall and go through all the starting procedure again. Note the fuel connectors have orings get more first! The fuel connectors use a ring that you squeeze to release. Buy two for spare later.

Pull the plugs and spin starter. Does it spit oil or water or gas?

Still no joy: Perform compression test. If fails perform leak down test.

If leak down test fails replace belts it could just be timing.

Your Master Mechanics have done none of this because of cost and knowledge. You will spend hours just getting to the belts.

I will gladly help, Best of luck...

 

Exhaust valve is still on the bike and working. Only has Akrapovic slip-ons. And I’ll keep an eye out for a steal on those parts you mentioned to keep on hand.

The test sequence you posted I did a couple times as I was going through the bike. Fuel filter was replaced by the techs. What exactly is that small tube responsible for that you were referring to? I appreciate you taking the time to put some thought into this.

 

Did you actually remove the starter to inspect the brushes? If not then you need to remove the alternator cover and check which starter it has fitted. There was a retrofit for the starter motors that should have been done as a TSB. The easy way to tell is that the "good" one will have the teeth cut into the armature rather than a separate gear. The upgrade includes a different idler gear and it's shaft to lower the drive ratio and give the starter an easier time. One thing that can happen is that the later idler shaft can wear the crankcase and allow the gears to bind in operation which will give the symptoms you are experiencing. It probably has the early #3 camshafts in it as well. They usually got upgraded at the same time as the starter and the airbox. If you PM me the VIN I can check for you whether it's been done. There were lots of Recalls and TSBs on those early bikes.

 

Why does everyone doubt that I removed the starter? Haha. A little baffled myself by that. Anyway, I did in fact remove, disassemble, clean and inspect the assembly. I gave the commutator a quick sanding to smooth it out so the brushes would have better smoother flowing contact. (Used to service commercial grade electric tools) However I’m trying to figure out how to properly and safely bench test it. I have heard some starters will weaken rather than just out right fail as rare as that seems to be. Need to do a Voltage drop test. Easier said than done as one person. I wasn’t aware of the retrofit starter. Wish I knew that before I reinstalled everything haha. I’m certain I’ll need to open it up again at some point so I’ll check then. And I’m going to have to take you up on the VIN check offer. Thanks for sparring some time to help. Seriously. This process was starting to get slow and much more confusing.