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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1098s with full termi, DP ecu and filter. When I start it I have to keep the revs at around 2k to prevent it stalling, same thing when I stop at lights, bike cuts out if I don't rev it. Doesn't really improve when I rev it. I have done a search but apparently the stalling issue some early 1098s suffered from was cured by a full exhaust system so I'm assuming as mine has one it is unrelated to that.

Bike is 2007 and has had belts, plugs and oil 500 miles ago, 12000 on the clock. I like to do my own spannering where possible as I'm 2 hour drive from a dealer, any help appreciated
 

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maybe the RECTIFIER VOLTAGE REGULATOR bad
 

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I'd start with a fresh tank of gas and some wide open throttle.. this is often known as the 'Italian tune-up'.

Common areas of concern are things like TPS sensor, coils, voltage regulator, battery, and fuel filter.

Work though a process of deduction, starting with fuel and continue into air or electricity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well I just started the bike again. It ran fine for 5 minutes or so, voltage is 14.1v at idle, then I noticed the front light (only the front light, rear stays on) switching off for maybe 2 seconds and back on again and bike cut out. Tried to restart, took several attempts, only started by opening the throttle and wouldn't run properly below 4k rp, voltage dropped to a low of 10v while cranking attempting to start. Bike ran ok again for another couple of minutes but all the time the front light was turning off intermittently. I'm guessing my problem is electrical or maybe the light issue is a coincidence?? Thanks for the suggestions so far, anyone any other ideas?
 

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Gonna say voltage regulator based on your info..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok, today I found a guide on here to test the charging system on any bike, the volts are a consistent 14.1 - 14.4 when bike is idling and revved to 5000 rpm and over, this, according to the guide, means my charging system is healthy, this was measured with a multimeter off the battery ( which was fairly consistent with dash readout by the way). So what I did was:
1.cleaned positive and negative terminals to battery
2. Ran a separate earth lead to a engine bolt
3. Separated and cleaned both connectors to Regulator / Rectifier and sprayed with contact cleaner. I did notice the yellow cables were quite hot to the touch but I'm assuming that's normal

unfortunately none of this made a difference, fired it up and it ran fine for a couple of minutes until the lights turned off again and seconds later the engine stalled. While the lights flickered it didn't appear to have any effect on the voltage reading which stayed at 14.1. Looks lime it might be a different connection that is corroded or loose
 

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Did your dashboard started flashing before it died your symptom that you describing sounds exactly like what happened with my CBR 929 I end up changing all 3 items start with battery then stator and the last item was voltage regulator, if I was you I would start with the voltage regulator
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No, that is the thing, only the headlight is flickering, even the parking lights stay on. Also the battery has never failed to crank over the engine and all the tests I've done on the charging system indicate its healthy that is why I'm starting to think the light going on and off may be a separate issue to the bike stalling and running rough in the lower revs after, the stalling is intermittent, sometimes it runs fine
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have since stripped the fairings and tank off the bike looking for corroded connectors, I am splitting all connectors and spraying with WD40 contact cleaner, no joy so far, any other suggestions? The light flickering really has me stumped, what are the symptoms of a faulty relay?
 

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Have you checked the fuses; sometimes they aren't blown but are faulty.

One fuse box is above the battery and the one left of the battery.

Also check out the multi-plug at rear of your headlights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Alright, an update on this problem in case anyone encounters this in future. After a suggestion from someone in another forum it turned out to be a loose flywheel. Was lucky as I am getting away with replacing the sprag clucth and don't have to replace the crank thankfully
 

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Alright, an update on this problem in case anyone encounters this in future. After a suggestion from someone in another forum it turned out to be a loose flywheel. Was lucky as I am getting away with replacing the sprag clucth and don't have to replace the crank thankfully
Wow! That is lucky.
 
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