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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone,

After many track days my 1098R decided to crack a piston. I was lucky and nothing else was damaged. Got the motor out took the heads and cylinder out. I use Motul 300V 15-50 and I change oil every track day so about every 2h. Finally got to see the merits of changing oil in overkill mode. Every bearing is flawless including tranny and the crank shaft had 0 wear on it. Thats with 21 000km on it with half of those at track days running a pretty good pace. Now the reason for the cracked piston is still beyond me. When I took the cylinder off the ring were clocked in line. We figured the bypass compression blew oil in the air box and the top piston sucked it all in……oil everywhere inside and out at the track NOT GOOD. I felt it right away of course power was down. Compression test was at 60 after.

Cheapest option was to go with Pistal pistons as the price of one from Ducati is the same as 2 from Pistal. So I went that route. At that stage we took the valves out to make sure nothing touched and while at it since from factory the valves only have one angle on them we did a 4 angle valve cut on the heads witch gave a 5% increase in flow.

So now I got all the parts put back together and we find from factory the top piston cam timing was off 12 degrees ( wow ) and botton 7 degrees. So we had that adjusted and are now .5 degrees off from one another so a lot better.

Time to put I back in and of course after all that it runs horrible. Misfire all the way. I took a few days off from it because I could not figure out what was going on. Everything was in the right place. Played with it again going over the wires and it was only condensation in the coil plugs. Harness sat on the cements floor for about 2 weeks so maybe it’s that.

Now the bike idles very strong and is very responsive. Tried it out back slowly after doing 5 heat cycles and first impression that it going to pull like crazy. Response is better and torque is up for sure just going at 3k rpm it pulls my arms off.

Dyno tuning is set for July 15 so I will post the results once done.

Thanks
Etienne
 

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Now the reason for the cracked piston is still beyond me..
Where was the piston cracked? Would love to see a picture of this..
 

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If you ride at 9/10's + the engines will need freshened up and pistons/rings/valves/clutch and any worn items need to be replaced at intervals closer to race engines than street engines... you run a higher risk of failure otherwise, I would be very impressed with 21,000Km on a bike which ran even 1/3 of that time on the track.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It cracked in half right to the pin ! Now she is back up together running very strong. Did a dyno brake in and did 170hp in 6 gear. I have the power commander V for it but it's wasn't working right so we could not finish with the tuning so final power is yet to be known. I run in advance group at a pretty good pace and th 10krpm are often used lol

I will try to get a picture of the piston soon.

Sorry for late reply i did not get any message in my e-mail saying anyone wrote back !
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Not yet. My power commander cannot read the RPM's and dynojet cannot help me out after over 2h on the phone with them trying to find out why. I think I have a defective PCV because the bike run very very well . Did 2 track days with it and it pull on everything ! As soon as I have a dyno graph I will post it up ! We are going testing in one week so i hope it's all done by then.

I see most 1098R on here go to the track. Have a look at this. As you know this bike can be a bit of work but with a linear suspension link it makes things way better !

Ducati Linear Suspension Link 848 1098 1198 - Forsaken Motorsports
 

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i read somewhere that ducati suggests piston swaps every 700 track kms on the 1098r. perhaps it was on the service manual or user? could someone check?
 

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Speaking of misfire issues...

As a general rule I have always used a short bristle detail paintbrush to put dielectric grease on the harness side connections of a coil, and filled the contact area of a coil over boot with dielectric grease when working on performance vehicles. It was the only way to ensure the V12 merc motors when out of the shop without issue, and I have found a number of professional race teams do the same with their motors to keep them happy on the track.


Glad you got the bike back together- have fun and keep the rubber side down!
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Maybe I'm not fast enough, my bike's handling is perfect lol
Lol maybe but just for a fast fact session. We made linear link for a few other bikes. The range in progression was about 15% witch is a bit on the high side as we bring them back to around 5,5% . The progression of the OEM suspension link for the 848/1098/1198 is off the charts. Its over 24% if I remember correctly. So our bikes ( 848-1198) have the highest progression of all witch is horrible for on track use. A linear link is wonderful just for the tire wear not to mention all the other positives effects this has like helping to keep the front down instead of looking at the sky all the time lol If anyone has questions in regard to the effects of a linear link join this discussion here http://www.ducati.org/forums/1098-1198/62095-forsaken-link.html

My 2 cents
 

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At 17000 miles, found cracks on a horizontal piston and the case right by the main bearing. Each piston has a stamped letter indicating its size. Mine was B. Found a B piston and a case on ebay. Updated the main bearings while at it. 5000 miles since rebuild and no issues. Expecting another rebuild at 25000. Valves and guides seems little loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Small update on how it performed in a 3h endurance race. With all the problems I had with my PCV we removed it and did a base run to see how she does with only the DP ECU like I said in a previous post. It did 170rwhp on a factory dyno so very good numbers. I did not get the torque numbers but by the seat of the pants it`s a lot lol

So what better test then an endurance race. The motor is just amazing. I wish all 1x98 performed like this from the factory. The speeds I hit in the straits was amazing. I got out of a corner neck and neck against a Ducati 1299S and I got to the next one first. To bad the same guy hit me later on in the race at over 160km/h to finish my season with a huge hole in my pocket. Cannot catch a break.

But back to the motor. I had a few spectators come after the race to see if I was ok but also to ask what was in that thing.

I will update this once I have it fully tuned next year. I just need to figure out with what. Bazzaz will probably be the one but first I need a new right radial mounts, right lever,right brake disc, full bodywork, helmet and a new suit and a few other small things. Getting a 3 job this week to pay for it all and to be able to at least do the regional races here. If all goes well maybe even one race in CSBK.

I hope you guys had a great season !
 

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Other than bstar's suggestion of the Microtec 197 ecu upgrade, the only hp improvement I know of is the switch to the DP RS cams, as the 1098R motor is pretty much a "hotrod" motor!! Beyond the two mentioned upgrades any additional improvements in power would fall into the "Mega-bucks" realm of the Ducati Corse 1098RS WSBK motor... not for the faint of wallet!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Final results are finally in plus a little test was done with wheels .

Final result with a BST carbon wheel was 183rwhp. I do not have the graph yet and torque did not matter that much as it has almost to much. With the bike strapped down I still had to sit on it or it would just start spinning like crazy. Room filled with white smoke so I freaked out at first of course lol. Was just doing burn outs on slicks.

So BST wheel 5lbs = DJ 183hp or 151 true hp
Cast aluminium wheel 10lbs = DJ 173hp or 144 true hp
Tires on both wheels were Dunlop Ntech slick 200/55/17

passes were done on a factory pro dyno and here is the chart they use to convert. also have stock base line for many bikes.
True Rear Wheel Horsepower

Did a race the same weekend after the dyno and it made a big difference in low range and mid range. super smooth super powerful ! Only internal mods are the Pistal pistons and a 4 angle cut on valves.

very please. Bike was tunes with the full Bazzaz unit.

PS traction control is so much better then the OEM one that the price for the bazzaz unit sound like a deal !
 

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Final results are finally in plus a little test was done with wheels .

Final result with a BST carbon wheel was 183rwhp. I do not have the graph yet and torque did not matter that much as it has almost to much. With the bike strapped down I still had to sit on it or it would just start spinning like crazy. Room filled with white smoke so I freaked out at first of course lol. Was just doing burn outs on slicks.

So BST wheel 5lbs = DJ 183hp or 151 true hp
Cast aluminium wheel 10lbs = DJ 173hp or 144 true hp
Tires on both wheels were Dunlop Ntech slick 200/55/17

passes were done on a factory pro dyno and here is the chart they use to convert. also have stock base line for many bikes.
True Rear Wheel Horsepower

Did a race the same weekend after the dyno and it made a big difference in low range and mid range. super smooth super powerful ! Only internal mods are the Pistal pistons and a 4 angle cut on valves.

very please. Bike was tunes with the full Bazzaz unit.

PS traction control is so much better then the OEM one that the price for the bazzaz unit sound like a deal !
Congrats fella!
 
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