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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. I have a 2007 1098s and it will not start. Here is what has happened. It was starting OK but slow as most 1098s seem to do. One day it tried to turn over, failed and now will only click once when I press the start button.

The battery is good. I had it checked and it gets between 12.4 and 12.9v both on my multi-meter and the bike's computer. I also tried another battery and even a car battery, but the same result occurred. I keep my batteries on a tender so I've never allowed it to be run down.

I tried push-starting and that was a no-go.

I tried jumping it from the solenoid and still no-go.

I'm thinking it may be the voltage regulator. The owner at the dealership says the recall was done, but with the Texas heat and me riding it this summer, sometimes at low speed, the temps got up over 200°F sometimes and the VR could have gotten damaged.

I can get a replacement solenoid and VR off Ebay for pretty cheap. There are also the Rick's ones for about $120.

Before I spent the money, I wanted to see what other people have to say.

Thanks
 

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Welcome to the forums!

The voltage regulator's job is to take the stator alternating current and convert it to clean DC. It has nothing to do with the bike running, in fact you can remove it from the bike and let it run simply on the battery if you want.

So the big question is, what doesn't work? Do you not hear the starter motor spin? Do you not hear the engine turn over? Does the dash board go bank when the starter motor works? Give us some more basic data and we should be able to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The lights, dashboard and computer all work fine. They don't flicker or go blank.

I don't hear the starter and the engine doesn't turn over. There is just a click, seemingly coming from the solenoid/switch.

I can't jump it off by using a screwdriver across the solenoid terminals, but I get 12.4v at the solenoid.
 

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Suspect the solenoid contacts, battery or starter wiring harness or even the starter have gone south. Start in this order,

1) check the voltage at the starter side of the solenoids contact to the battery ground when its energized, 8-12v probably ok, less than that bad solenoid or bad wire cable from the battery to the solenoid.

2) check the voltage at the starter motor terminal to the battery ground with the solenoid energized, less than 8-12v bad wire cable from the solenoid to starter.

3) check the voltage from the battery negative to the starter housing with the solenoid energized. More than 1-2v bad ground somewhere.

4) all the above check-out ok highly suspect starter motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Suspect the solenoid contacts, battery or starter wiring harness or even the starter have gone south. Start in this order,

1) check the voltage at the starter side of the solenoids contact to the battery ground when its energized, 8-12v probably ok, less than that bad solenoid or bad wire cable from the battery to the solenoid.

2) check the voltage at the starter motor terminal to the battery ground with the solenoid energized, less than 8-12v bad wire cable from the solenoid to starter.

3) check the voltage from the battery negative to the starter housing with the solenoid energized. More than 1-2v bad ground somewhere.

4) all the above check-out ok highly suspect starter motor.
OK. Thanks for the suggestion! That will give me somewhere to go anyway!
 

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I don't hear the starter and the engine doesn't turn over. There is just a click, seemingly coming from the solenoid/switch.
Try applying direct voltage to the starter motor. If it still doesn't turn over, then you've gotta pop that left side engine case off and see what's going on in there. Perhaps it's simply a bad starter, but its been pretty common to see bad idler gears between the starter and sprague clutch on these motors. For sure worth looking at if the starter still doesn't turn over with direct voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Try applying direct voltage to the starter motor. If it still doesn't turn over, then you've gotta pop that left side engine case off and see what's going on in there. Perhaps it's simply a bad starter, but its been pretty common to see bad idler gears between the starter and sprague clutch on these motors. For sure worth looking at if the starter still doesn't turn over with direct voltage.
Will do. I'm going to replace the solenoid switch and the wire going to the starter, anyway, because I can get the part cheap. When I'm monkeying with that, I'll test the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Hey, do you have any tips in removing the left case? I will be doing this in the middle of a parking lot. I assume I will have to drain the oil out of the case. The service manual talks about removing the water pump and chain too.

Option B is having the dealer tow it off which means tons of money but if it's going to be a huge operation, I may have to suck it up.

It would be different if it was at my house and I could take my time.

Hopefully it will just be a connector wire or a contact or something, but my luck usually isn't that good.
 

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Yep, drain the oil AND coolant. Pulling those three coolant hoses makes for a much easier case removal.

You will need a case removal tool.. extremely cheap, just do a google search.

I personally don't think its the solenoid because you already bypassed it. Thats why you gotta run power to the starter directly and see what happens. If it doesn't spin, you're pulling it apart for sure to see why! It may just be a blown starter, but they aren't crazy difficult to re-build either. Just gotta be patient with them and find the right replacement parts.
 

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Most people consider that one black box a voltage regulator (VR). It's not like there are two boxes or something, it's all one unit. Sorry if the name is confusing technically.
 

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Most people consider that one black box a voltage regulator (VR). It's not like there are two boxes or something, it's all one unit. Sorry if the name is confusing technically.
Agree. Seems like splitting hairs to call out the individual goings-on inside the box. I think i've heard it referred to as "VR", "Voltage Regulator / Rectifier", and "Regulator".
 
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