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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,
So are these engines delicate? I've been reading a lot of oil leaks, rebuilds and other problems with the 1098 and 1198 engines.
Reason i ask is.....
On my 1198 (owned for 2 months and 7k on the clock) i have a very slight oil leak at the bottom of the engine at the crankcase join near the sump plug .... after a day standing, if i wipe my finger along that join, there is a very small amount of oil, not enough to drip .... no cracks anywhere and definitely not the sump plug... was fine when i got it but started after 600 miles later.
Splitting the engine seems extreme and even though i do all servicing my self i dont feel i could do that as most probably would need special tools
 

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Court Jester
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Hi guys,
So are these engines delicate? I've been reading a lot of oil leaks, rebuilds and other problems with the 1098 and 1198 engines.
Reason i ask is.....
On my 1198 (owned for 2 months and 7k on the clock) i have a very slight oil leak at the bottom of the engine at the crankcase join near the sump plug .... after a day standing, if i wipe my finger along that join, there is a very small amount of oil, not enough to drip .... no cracks anywhere and definitely not the sump plug... was fine when i got it but started after 600 miles later.
Splitting the engine seems extreme and even though i do all servicing my self i dont feel i could do that as most probably would need special tools
From what I've read the 1198 is the more reliable of the lot 1098/848. The oil leak/seep can be tricky might very well be traveling to the seem. And yes you will need not one but many special tools to split the case I did one of my engines and gave up..
 

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Hi guys,
So are these engines delicate? I've been reading a lot of oil leaks, rebuilds and other problems with the 1098 and 1198 engines.
Reason i ask is.....
On my 1198 (owned for 2 months and 7k on the clock) i have a very slight oil leak at the bottom of the engine at the crankcase join near the sump plug .... after a day standing, if i wipe my finger along that join, there is a very small amount of oil, not enough to drip .... no cracks anywhere and definitely not the sump plug... was fine when i got it but started after 600 miles later.
Splitting the engine seems extreme and even though i do all servicing my self i dont feel i could do that as most probably would need special tools
The only issue I had was one of my main roller bearings starting to go bad. You might be able to hear it if you are lucky, but I ended up getting the engine blueprinted while it was apart and having all the bearings changed out at ducshop. This was at 13k miles with all services done on time.
 

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Blueprint: (Engine out of frame)

Disassemble, clean and inspect
Blueprint rods
Check crank run-out
Polish and measure crank journal and install race specification bearings
Shim trans, shift drum and crank to Corse specs
Set ring end gap
Check piston-to-cylinder clearance
Shim cylinders to set piston squish
Adjust valves to Ducshop specs
Degree cams to Ducshop numbers per application
Set up clutch pack
Set up shift linkage and update
Lap-in valves

Direct from Marietta GA, Ducati service, performance, racing, parts & accessories

He literally makes it better than new..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I must admit the bike is awesome and i love it, best bike ive owned, just keep reading about engine horror stories lol ... i dont race or track the bike ... tbh never red line the revs either so hoping that makes a big difference :D
 

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1098s and 848s were more susceptible to problems because of the shitty bearings used in them. They upgraded that on 1198s, and even though they are not bulletproof, they have a lot less issues than their smaller displacement siblings.

Mine ran flawlessly for 6000 hard miles (most were on the track).

If your leak is near the sump, perhaps it's coming through the gasket in the oil sump plate, which is an easy fix. Pop the plate off and re-seal. Or even better, get an aftermarket plate which comes with an O-ring instead of a liquid gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I wish it was, unfortunately its definitely 1 inch up the side of the cranckcase join, just above that oil sump plate .... as i said, it was fine for 600 miles then just started leaking. .. not enough to drip though, ... i have just used an oyltite stik, its for sealing cranckcase joints from the outside, will check tomorrow night to see if its worked, apart from that issue the bike is mint condition
 

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Can you take a picture of where your oil is leaking and post it for us to see?
 
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