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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well- shit.

I was on my way home this afternoon, literally to pull the clutch slave, line, master off the bike to flush them. Shifted from 3rd to 4th (or maybe 3rd to 2nd- i forget)... when the bike missed the shift, and the shifter bound up.

-Shift was just at cruising speed, bike wasnt under heavy load etc.
-Clutch has been shitty since my trackday last week. Which is why I was heading home to flush it. Just wanted to get a quick ride in beforehand.
-Wheel spins freely.
-Bike will still run
-Clutch engages/disengages
-clutch spins as if its in neutral when motor runs.

But the shifter will not budge.
Where do I go from here? I believe its a cassette style trans- so do I pull the trans to figure out what I broke? Is there a service manual to show how to do so?
 

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It's probably the shift fork or shift fork spring. Happens quite a bit with these bikes from what I hear. I'm pretty sure mine is bent or something, because I've had a lot of mis-shifts, especially in higher gears (going into 5th or 6th).
 

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Throbber I think you've got a bad link there.

OP, I think rubbish is right. I low-sided on the track and my shift lever got bent backwards. Had the same dead feeling you have with the bike stuck in an odd neutral (not between 1st and 2nd). The culprit was a broken selector spring. It's an easy enough fix but be prepared to replace the timing gears (as a pair) if they chewed on the pieces of your spring like they did mine. Check out my thread: gearbox a diy fix.

Since yours was not due to any external damage I would think a spring is all you need. Pull the left crankcase to find out, very easy to do if you have the crankcase puller. I got an aftermarket one for relatively cheap. Get a manual for details but it's basically:

1) remove left fairing
2) remove front sprocket cover
3) drain oil
4) drain coolant
5) remove clutch slave
6) remove battery tray (may not be necessary but makes it a lot easier)
7) remove coolant hoses
8) unbolt crankcase and remove with the puller (you could also probably make one for cheap if you're so inclined)

You'll see your selector arm behind and to the right of the flywheel. Honestly don't know if you can wiggle it out without removing the flywheel because I removed mine. There's some other tools you would need: a flywheel holder, impact gun, 27mm deep socket, and then a torque wrench rated to 330NM to put it back on.

Good luck and keep us posted
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am going to open the LS first, I think the selector arm is stuck. If that isnt the culprit, then I am going to go farther, via TChase's thread.

I need to double check that I have the casecover puller. I think I do, but need to re-look at the HDESA tool kit I bought
 

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That's the best thing you could find. All you need to do is adjust the claw and you're good. Some people say put it in second and line it up on the top post. The manual says put it in neutral and use the tool (you can just center it between the top two posts). Either way, put the crank case cover back on temporarily and run it through all gears to make sure it's aligned right before you seal it up. The manual says check the gears with the cover off, but if your selector arm is bent, you won't know it until you put it through the cover and close it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Im fine with pulling the flywheel if I have to. I have some big effin impact guns.
I will order the puller. But Im confused as to where I am making the adjustment... on the eccentric pin?
 
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