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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi everyone, hoping I can get some assistance here. I've read several related threads here but none seem to apply to my particular situation.

I have a 2007 1098 base (yellow!), but decked out nicely by the first owner, I'm the second. It's got TTX rear shock, Ohlins race forks, Speedymoto top triple, lots of CF, really nice stuff. The best part is the Leo Vince SBK full race exhaust, and ECU mapped with "RACING EVO" map.

My issue: the bike is hard to get started when cold, less so when warm. I recently installed the larger MotoElectric battery leads in the hope that it would help my start. I feel like it gets fine voltage, but just doesn't turn over very willingly to finally catch and run, even after the new battery leads install. I have to coax it with the throttle to stay running. After a few minutes, it's running OK. My biggest problem with this is that when still somewhat cold (temp showing "Lo" or below 120f), the bike tends to stall while idling at a stop. Happened this afternoon twice while on a relaxing ride through Houston traffic! NOT!

My 2007 is a late one, so I'm fairly confident it doesn't have the mismatched cam issue. And once warm, this thing is super fast and wonderful. It still feels like it "may" stall even after fully-warmed up sometimes, though.

Could this be an ECU issue? The bike was worked on at Houston Superbikes before I owned it, according to the first owner. He spared no expense. He did mention soon after I bought it (about 1.5 years ago) that it needed a bit more tuning, but at the time it was running fine. Now, she's a bit more temperamental. I'd welcome any troubleshooting advice; I'm fairly tool-garage friendly and could explore as directed.

Thanks guys!
Greg in Houston
2007 1090 (wildebeest)
2009 R1 (smooth as bat sh*t!)

Edit: forgot to mention, my normal idle, once warm, is 1200rpm. Bike's got about 12,000 miles on it.
 

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Do you still have the evap / charcoal canister on there? My old monster was doing that until I : 1) removed the evap canister, and 2) I stumbled across a vacuum leak on one of the lines connected to the throttle body. After those two fixes, no more cold weather hard starting / stalling.
 

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These twins don't require much to fire-up.. compression, good air fuel mixture, and spark.

Do you know if its a custom tune, or after market ECU? Might want to contact Houston Superbikes.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think it's a custom tune loaded into the ducati ecu. I'll contact Houston Superbikes this week and try to get more info. I've had the ecu in my hands, it certainly looks like a stock Ducati ecu.
 

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If it wasn't dark I'd go pull the fairings off my 848 and find it! Even if that's not the problem, it's worth checking your vacuum lines out anyways. At the time of that old post, the lines were only 2 years old. They are subjected to a lot of continuous heat if you think about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Upon further analysis....

After riding my 1098 again a few times this past week, I've observed that my actual issue is just the same ole difficult cold-engine running behavior all these bikes seem to exhibit.

I had a 2008 1098 before this 2007 1098. My current bike runs rings around my previous 2008 one, due to the tuning and exhaust. I think it makes 160hp at the wheel, according the the previous owner who had it dynoed. Really strong bike!

It runs great once warm, but when cold, it takes about 3 attempts to get it started, and then for about 5-7 minutes it could easily die when running at a stop, idling.

I do have the vapor canister deleted, so, are there other things to check to help ease the cold-running issue? I have not yet checked for vacuum leaks, but I doubt I have one, because once warm, the bike is super strong with no running issues.

Thanks again,
Greg
Houston
 

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hey there.

i also have a 2007 1098s, with termi full system and full termi ecu map. i also HAD starting issues when cold and worse in the winter. and also it was really rough under 3500rpm. all of those i lived with, thinking this is the ducati 1098 with full system, what can you do.... it worked very well also mid-high rpm so i was kind of like you.

well my bike now after 2.5 years of ownership NEVER ran better on idle and low rpm. its been months since it died on me. i really never expected it to be this good. i hope these will help:

the issue was this. cold start, it struggled but started. the vertical cylinder was running a bit rich, spark plug was also getting black if i let it at idle a lot of time. IF i switched it off before warming the engine well, it would never turn on again without a lot of throttle, and smoke of gas was also coming out of the exhaust. not warming up well also includes turning on, leave it for 2 minutes, ride at the gas station 300m away, switch off, nightmare to start it again. only if the engine reached 60-70C after minutes of riding i could say that it would start again if i switched it off and on.

i did the following:

- change spark plugs TWICE
- thoroughly check the electrical system, also installed lithium battery
- checked ignition coils (measured the primary not swapped)
- cleaned fuel injectors
- tried stock ecu
- tried other gas stations and 100 octane gas

for me none of the above made any difference. i took it to the service shop after not being able to do anything else, they would be able to swap things to find the problem.

the guy did a simple balance of vacuum/compression between the cylinders for the second time after i cleaned the injectors. he also told me that the vertical was not working well at idle and this could also be a number of other things, like water/air temperature sensors etc. To verify this, you can start it for 10 seconds switch it off and check the temperatures of the exhaust near the cylinders, they should be equally hot. my vertical wasn't as much.

bam after the balancing, the bike starts like a dragon (lol). i can switch it on and off many times cold, no problems. and it works reeeeally nice 2000rmp and above! i m telling you, it is a different bike.

now the strange part is that before i did all the above with the first balancing after installing the full system, it didn't work well. it could have been a combination of things, cleaning injectors and new plugs + balancing afterwards, but the difference was tremendous.

Hope i helped :) i am happy, and i am telling you no matter what you hear from people about low rpm with full systems and high HP, the bike SHOULD work smoothly like mine now.

PS. i live in Athens/Greece/Europe so the air temperatures here are between 5 (rarely at winter) and 35C (summer), if that helps also. if its really colder there, perhaps you have to live with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Fuzion, I really appreciate the response. Lots of good info there. So, the key seems to be balancing compression and vacuum between the cylinders. Meaning, they each need to match the same values, is this what you are saying?

I'll check the exhaust header temps after 10 seconds of starting from cold and see what that reveals.

Much appreciated,
Greg
Houston TX, where it's usually warm!
 

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hey no problem

i really didn't understand well the procedure of balancing, and if it involved fuel as well. the service knows better. it might not be the key also, all of these things above affect proper function at idle i guess.

good luck and post back any results/solution!
 
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