[phoenixautopartsau]

Hey team,
Just wanted to see if anyone could offer any tips on how to go about a clutch master removal? One of the worst things i've seen, previous owner installed some shitty bleeder nipple and on the first bleed I've snapped the thing! Then rushed the extraction like a right numpty and snapped the extractor 😡

Really strange, this section is missing from each of the manuals I have, one has it in the contents but then just blank below, almost like Ducati don't want us to know something.....😜

Thinking it should be pretty straight-forward yeah? Just try to do as quick as possible like when you're doing the slave? But just having any reference wasn't sure if there was something that could just screw the process.

Very much appreciate any guidance or advice you may have

 

[BOTT]

Nipple work is open once, close once. If you did the old standard open, lever pull, close, open, lever pull, close, bad move. Banjo bolt loosened first, then the bottom master 1/2 clamp bolt, then the top bolt.

Before you remove it, note the 1/2 clamp showing no air gap at the meet points of the master to clamp, and an air gap at the lower clamp. That says the top clamp is sent home without gap, the bottom air gap is the crush point to lockup to.

If say you have two types of 1/2 clamps, it will show itself by laying the flat side on a flat surface. Hold one side [of the 1/2 cap] down and it will either show it's stepped [one side is higher], the other side shows the air gap, Or the other style shows both are even and no step, then that is more an even tightening clamp, where the stepped clamp is the clamp showing an arrow for up, or the air gap faces down, top bolt tightened first.

 

[cs363]

Pretty straight forward - cover tank/fairing and area under the master cylinder with an old towel or sheet to protect it. Then remove the fluid from the reservoir with a syringe or similar, then crack the brake hose banjo bolt just to loosen it followed by unbolting the cylinder from the handlebar, then fully remove the hose - have a small rag handy to wrap around the top of the hose and try and keep it upright to avoid fluid leakage.
Installation is the reverse of above followed by bleeding the master cylinder from the upper bleed screw (on the cylinder) first followed by bleeding from the slave cylinder.
To bleed just use the old hose submerged in a jar with some brake fluid in it trick rather than a MityVac or whatever, it's much easier.

 

[BOTT]

You titty tools need a lesson in bleed me out with a sharp tongue. Took more time to lace the cable thru the frame than bleed it. Trick is to get arm pump, not a titty-vac and look the squid. Sheered off nipples and you are suppose to suck those wit your lips. I had a pedal first bleed, did not have to banjo the master, was more showing if no joy, this is a second type bleed, no nipple at the master.

 

[phoenixautopartsau]

Nipple work is open once, close once. If you did the old standard open, lever pull, close, open, lever pull, close, bad move. Banjo bolt loosened first, then the bottom master 1/2 clamp bolt, then the top bolt.

Before you remove it, note the 1/2 clamp showing no air gap at the meet points of the master to clamp, and an air gap at the lower clamp. That says the top clamp is sent home without gap, the bottom air gap is the crush point to lockup to.

If say you have two types of 1/2 clamps, it will show itself by laying the flat side on a flat surface. Hold one side [of the 1/2 cap] down and it will either show it's stepped [one side is higher], the other side shows the air gap, Or the other style shows both are even and no step, then that is more an even tightening clamp, where the stepped clamp is the clamp showing an arrow for up, or the air gap faces down, top bolt tightened first.

I most certainly went with the ol' standard method and proper cooked it! Thank you for the pointers brother, much appreciated!

 

[phoenixautopartsau]

Pretty straight forward - cover tank/fairing and area under the master cylinder with an old towel or sheet to protect it. Then remove the fluid from the reservoir with a syringe or similar, then crack the brake hose banjo bolt just to loosen it followed by unbolting the cylinder from the handlebar, then fully remove the hose - have a small rag handy to wrap around the top of the hose and try and keep it upright to avoid fluid leakage.
Installation is the reverse of above followed by bleeding the master cylinder from the upper bleed screw (on the cylinder) first followed by bleeding from the slave cylinder.
To bleed just use the old hose submerged in a jar with some brake fluid in it trick rather than a MityVac or whatever, it's much easier.

Legendary! Thanks mate, much appreciated. Was thinking along these lines, but just not seeing any instruction specific to the master i wasn't sure if there was a stage i could completely stuff it!

 

[cs363]

Legendary! Thanks mate, much appreciated. Was thinking along these lines, but just not seeing any instruction specific to the master i wasn't sure if there was a stage i could completely stuff it!

About the only thing you can screw up is dropping the copper washers off the banjo bolt on the workshop floor and then taking ages to find them again.... 🤣 (ideally, you should use new ones according to the book but as long as someone hasn't strong armed them you're usually fine and you can anneal them if you're really concerned)

 

[DaveS]

About the only thing you can screw up is dropping the copper washers off the banjo bolt on the workshop floor and then taking ages to find them again.... 🤣 (ideally, you should use new ones according to the book but as long as someone hasn't strong armed them you're usually fine and you can anneal them if you're really concerned)

Yep right first time about the manuals Ducati do not want us working on the brakes,possibly thinking of liability,but you can buy all the Brembo parts and DIY it anyway