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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
No Manual so I hope this helps others in my situation. The job is easy with no special tools required for the initial fitting.
Seat and tank removal. 2 screws under seat at rear come out and the seat slides back and off. To get the tank off you need to firstly remove the rear cylinder covers from the frame tank and under seat cowl (lots of screws) it's a little fiddly.


Off with the fairing sides and bottom now, that's easy. The front is a bit harder there are 2 bolts in the front at sides and one underneath in the centre once you get the black plastic off under there. BE CAREFUL WHEN REPLACING THIS SCREW. I managed to break the bloody plastic it screws into off the fairing it isn't real strong.

remove the butterfly motor and cables there is a plug to replace when you take this off. The lamba sensor is also in this area, if you cant see it follow the wire up from the front header, this plug can be undone and the plug end fitted here as well.



I'm gonna check how its going and do another window. dont want to be wasting my time here
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Okay it ain't workin how I wanted with the text between pic so I'll do 1 bit at a time. Undo the oil cooler and hold it out of the way supported (I used ockys) then rip the system off. You'll need to keep the plug from your old systems front header to put into the new one (plug not supplied)
The new system goe's on easy It's a bit tricky getting that screw back in between the 2 cans though Put the can straps on first and leave them loose then get that nut and bolt on at the back before tightening it all up and making sure its straight, check those straps and make them straight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The high flow air cleaner is a prick, you have to take off the ram air pipe from one side and put it in there thats why the front fairing has to come off so as to get to the ram air pipes. Bloody lot of work to change a air cleaner. I wouldn't like to be paying by the hour for this one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay now the ECU I should have said before that I disconnected the battery before removing the gate motor and sensor, I tape the lead up too so as to stop it being brushed agaist the terminal and causing a possible short. I'd hate to stuff up some of this expensive crap. The ECU is under the battery and is held in by 2 screws. Firstly remove the plugs and replace the ECU.

battery re connect and re assemble.

When you put the tank back on make sure you hear those quik release lines CLICK it took me a couple of goes, they looked okay but weren't on properly.

I keyed on at this stage and checked it out all seemed okay with SBK RACING scrolling across screen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Almost forgot, the mirrors come off easy 1 screw and just pull em off.

NOW, it says in the instructions not to key on and start until 02 and IPS are set by dealer.
I've checked with my mechanic and also system supplier of the system both said it should be okay to ride in. My mechanic has had other people who have fitted their systems ride in for final adjustments.

I started the bike when it was back together and it runs fine, I've taken it for a run around the block and there was no erregularities (had to ask how to spell that)

I'll take it in as soon as the dealers open for the adjustments and unless there is any trouble with the ride in that's it folks. feel free to PM me if you have any questions. I'm hoping that over the years this forum will become a good database for all.
 

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slob ur a champ mate, Thanks for this as I'm about to install my system next week and I'm a noob :)

I also spent all day yesterday brush polishing my pipes, Got rid of alot of the welding marks :naughty:
 

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Yeah, Ditto!

Slob, I think it's just "GRAND" that you went through all the trouble to post all that. My system was installed by the dealer (I didn't have that much confidence in myself to pull it off correctly) and I appreciate what you did just the same!

Thanks Dude! :yo:
 

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Very Well done Slob! Great work. Thanks for posting the install with the pictures.

CAG
 

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Man seriously! You are the king! Thanks for helping us out! info is gold!
 

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slob said:
Almost forgot, the mirrors come off easy 1 screw and just pull em off.

NOW, it says in the instructions not to key on and start until 02 and IPS are set by dealer.
I've checked with my mechanic and also system supplier of the system both said it should be okay to ride in. My mechanic has had other people who have fitted their systems ride in for final adjustments.

I started the bike when it was back together and it runs fine, I've taken it for a run around the block and there was no erregularities (had to ask how to spell that)

I'll take it in as soon as the dealers open for the adjustments and unless there is any trouble with the ride in that's it folks. feel free to PM me if you have any questions. I'm hoping that over the years this forum will become a good database for all.
Let me get this right. You keep the 02 sensor. I was under the impression you could lose that with the full system.

By the way great job. Thanks for posting.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Let me get this right. You keep the 02 sensor. I was under the impression you could lose that with the full system.
remove the butterfly motor and cables there is a plug to replace when you take this off. The lamba sensor is also in this area, if you cant see it follow the wire up from the front header, this plug can be undone and the plug end fitted here as well.
the lamba (02) sensor is lost, in doing so you need to have the 02 set with the dealers computer, also the Idle position sensor need setting these settings are bike specific and cannot be preset.
 

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slob said:
the lamba (02) sensor is lost, in doing so you need to have the 02 set with the dealers computer, also the Idle position sensor need setting these settings are bike specific and cannot be preset.
Very good thanks
 

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Great write up,

Do you HAVE to remove the tank and nose fairing, it looks like the air filter comes out under the frame rail so can the air tube be removed with the tank in place ?

The ECU looks easier to remove than the 749/999 models,on them it was hidden away under a cover with a foil shield protecting it and you had to have tiny hands to get in to refit the mounting bolts.

I was told the same by my tech, the bike can be run but he suggested taking in to be checked asap after fitting the system. He said he has had a couple in that were set correctly without any adjustments and a couple that needed setting up a little.
 

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Air filter install

Hi..You do not have to remove the nose fairing to change the air filter. I simply removed the small black inner fairing that covers the ram air tube, and the ram air tube on the left side and was able to replace the air filter..Only three screws holding on the cover, and three for the ram air tube..Simple install, can be done in about 10 minutes..Cheers!
 

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You do. The full system allows you to run 4% CO content. Can't do that with the O2 sensor plugged in.
 

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Hi Slob,

I know this thread isn't the newest one, but I used your instructions (with the exception of removing the front fairing to get at the air filter) to install my system, and it went together fine. I was a little concerned about the crappy photocopied instructions with horrible pictures that came with the set, so I did a little google search and this came up! Thanks a million.

BTW, for anyone else attempting this, the hardest part by far is getting that little screw back in to hold the two cans together -- after spending about 20 minutes trying to get this together, I found that a pair of needle-nose vise grips did the trick!
 

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Thanky

Thanks Slob,
Your a good man; but you need to follow-up with us daddy-o. How, did it run after you installed it, and how did it run after you went to the dealer to have it recalibated or computeded?

I would love to here it.
 
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