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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my first Ducati and it seems like it's very particular but I have no experience with them. It was sitting for a long time (longer story about how I ended up with it). After a few hundred miles of riding the clutch slave started leaking. I replaced the o-rings, still leaking. Replaced with Oberon's unit, no more leaking. Prior to changing clutch slave I'd occasionally get a shift into a false neutral (which I never knew was a thing). Now with the new slave it's much worse. I was on the freeway and trying to shift and it would not shift no matter how hard I pulled/pushed. I believe I was in 4th. I had to pull off the freeway. It wouldn't shift until I turned it off and back on. I had somewhere to be and I was able to ride it mostly without incident the rest of the day. However I know it's an ongoing problem, I'm sure it will happen again, and I don't want to mess anything up so I don't want to ride it until it's solved. I did a search and there is a lot of information about this, specifically I was looking for Beauwulf's postings. There's also a current thread on the factory return spring and detent arm. I don't know where to start with this. I don't know if there is something that needs adjusting, the return spring, if the line needs bleeding again, or something else entirely. Is there a sticky about this issue or can anyone direct me to the definitive post on this or post your experiences if you've had a similar issue? Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also I should mention that the bike has 2000k miles.

This is some of what I've found:

This is a known issue and it stems back to the shift detent cam and 2 screws that should have been loctited. When they loosen up, the detent cam gets gaught on the detent roller. From your description I'd say that's what happened to yours.

There are other situations where this might occour such as a sloppy downshift or upshift. In this senerio, the gear dogs get locked between gears and the shift forks get bent. There can also be damage to the shift drum is some extreme cases.

The Duc tranny is not as "robust" as the buels but it is quite suffeciant to handle the loads. You just have to be more precise in your execution of the shift. Proper adjustment of the shift linkage will also help this.

Most who have had this problem (where they were able to get it released and not damage the shift forks) report no further occourence after the 600 mile service (oil change) or shortly thereafter which makes me think that if the screws don't back out and lockup as in the first circumstance I mentioned, then a little more breakin time is required for the tranny to avoid this problem.

If this happens on the road, stop the bike, turn off the engine, rock the bike GENTLY back and forth while applying pressure to the shift lever. If it doesn't pop back in with pressure in the up direction, repeat the process while applying the pressure in the down direction. You should just be moving the bike enough to cause the chain to tighten up and bump the internals. If this operation fails to release the tranny, call Road Service and get her towed to the dealership.

Some of these issues could be the shift linkage centering spring being out of adjustment. There is an eccentric screw and lock nut that is used to adjust the center of travel for the return spring. I found mine to be "less than tight" when I had to change out the claw spring on mine. If this eccentric is turned to one side, it will stop the travel of the link in that direction before the shift drum can rotate enough to engage the next gear. To adjust this screw, you will need to remove the left side engine cover (requires a special puller) so if your still under warranty, you probably need to get the shop to do it for you.
 
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