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My first Ducati 2008 848 superbike, 400k delivery ride home and was not impressed , ran wide on corners , tended to fall into slow speed tight neighbourhood corners and generally shook me to bits . Over time I have done the sag and improved suspension travel , but biggest improvement was dropping the forks so that instead of 3 lines showing , there is now only 1. It is now great on open road and tracks well , bonus is that slow speed cornering is also vastly improved, it is all round fun to ride now . Cost of all this = $0.00 just a little time, and teaching my wife how to measure sag correctly. Tempted to drop forks flush with steering head to see if improves further but happy with it as is . Worked for me but not saying it will do the trick for others , but can be returned to normal easily at no cost. Note picture taken before dropping forks.
IMG_20200511_112843 (1).jpg
 

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The lower the forks go...the quicker it turns in but the worse off it becomes in braking stability...the rear end starts to flail like a kite in a stiff wind without a tail....it's a progression...but stock height is the goal rather than the baseline
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am dropping the forks in the triple clamp which is raising the front end and extending the wheelbase , it is confusing raising the forks in triple clamp will make it turn in quicker.
 

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I am dropping the forks in the triple clamp which is raising the front end and extending the wheelbase , it is confusing raising the forks in triple clamp will make it turn in quicker.
Either way will get it to turn quicker....but on public roads...laws be Damned...having the forks extend past the triple clamp will be quicker with the expense of stability....it's a journey...raise the front end..turns quicker until you realize your slower....drop the front end until you realize you can be be even slower when it counts...

I only point this out as a path way....it's a journey...don't be in a hurry to go fast.
 

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Also recently bought a 2008 848 and it had the Speedymoto triples. Had barely 1 line showing on the forks above the triple (about 2mm). Tried to fit an Ohlins Steering Damper with the over the top triple fork clamp and it wouldnt fit without raising the forks. From what I've read this was due to the Speedymoto Top Triple. Putting OEM triples back on and I need to know what the OEM height for the forks above the top triple. 3 lines? What's recommended?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also recently bought a 2008 848 and it had the Speedymoto triples. Had barely 1 line showing on the forks above the triple (about 2mm). Tried to fit an Ohlins Steering Damper with the over the top triple fork clamp and it wouldnt fit without raising the forks. From what I've read this was due to the Speedymoto Top Triple. Putting OEM triples back on and I need to know what the OEM height for the forks above the top triple. 3 lines? What's recommended?
I believe it is three lines showing above triple clamp. but I have one showing .
 

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Either way will get it to turn quicker....but on public roads...laws be Damned...having the forks extend past the triple clamp will be quicker with the expense of stability....it's a journey...raise the front end..turns quicker until you realize your slower....drop the front end until you realize you can be be even slower when it counts...

I only point this out as a path way....it's a journey...don't be in a hurry to go fast.
I am lost with your statement. If you raise the front end the bike becomes lazy and tends to push. Lower the front and it becomes darty so to speak and dives into the corner at entry as well as you loose stability in hard braking truthfully either way. What are you saying? If you want the bike to change then change the triple clamp to a different degree and as well the spring rate to match the change and weight. Unless I am missing something.
 

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It is a bit cryptic...what I'm trying to say, raising the front end to get the bike to turn faster will ultimately leave you slower in the corner as the front end asks for more weight...and lowering the front end will get you faster as you can carry more corner entry speed...that is until you need to stop...it's a juggling act of compromises
 

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It is a bit cryptic...what I'm trying to say, raising the front end to get the bike to turn faster will ultimately leave you slower in the corner as the front end asks for more weight...and lowering the front end will get you faster as you can carry more corner entry speed...that is until you need to stop...it's a juggling act of compromises
It id a give and take you are correct on that.
 

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Also recently bought a 2008 848 and it had the Speedymoto triples. Had barely 1 line showing on the forks above the triple (about 2mm). Tried to fit an Ohlins Steering Damper with the over the top triple fork clamp and it wouldnt fit without raising the forks. From what I've read this was due to the Speedymoto Top Triple. Putting OEM triples back on and I need to know what the OEM height for the forks above the top triple. 3 lines? What's recommended?
With the OEM triples, the stock height is 3 lines showing. As mentioned in the first post, I would recommend dropping the forks in increments. Start with 2 lines showing and see how that feels.
 

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I am dropping the forks in the triple clamp which is raising the front end and extending the wheelbase , it is confusing raising the forks in triple clamp will make it turn in quicker.
Lowering the Forks in the Triple Clamp for Quicker Handling

What you're doing is raising the bike's center-of-gravity (CG) in order to use the bike’s weight to assist in turning and reduce lean angle needed to make a turn.

The front and rear ride heights should be increased equal amounts.

Don't just take my word for it:

Ducati Corse, in a 1996 memorandum, recommended raising the front and rear 10 mm to increase “flickability" as in a chicane. Yes, I said RAISE, not lower. Raising the bike raises CG and a higher CG makes the bike go to the tire edge quicker (per the Ducati race engineers).

170645


170646

Figures:Motorcycle Handling and Chassis Design — The Art and Science byTony Foale 2002
Motorcycle Handling and Chassis Design.pdf

170647


Ducati 999RS Service Manual setup advice from above:

"If you need more responsive steering, for example on a racetrack with chicanes, set the steering tube to the forward position (23.5°) and raise both front and tail height (try with 4 mm). This gives quicker steering and a higher center of gravity."

Note: The ride height should be set to make the bike turn quickly, but not fall into a corner or require rider input to hold a line.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Lowering the Forks in the Triple Clamp for Quicker Handling

What you're doing is raising the bike's center-of-gravity (CG) in order to use the bike’s weight to assist in turning and reduce lean angle needed to make a turn.

The front and rear ride heights should be increased equal amounts.

Don't just take my word for it:

Ducati Corse, in a 1996 memorandum, recommended raising the front and rear 10 mm to increase “flickability" as in a chicane. Yes, I said RAISE, not lower. Raising the bike raises CG and a higher CG makes the bike go to the tire edge quicker (per the Ducati race engineers).

View attachment 170645

View attachment 170646
Figures:Motorcycle Handling and Chassis Design — The Art and Science byTony Foale 2002
Motorcycle Handling and Chassis Design.pdf

View attachment 170647

Ducati 999RS Service Manual setup advice from above:

"If you need more responsive steering, for example on a racetrack with chicanes, set the steering tube to the forward position (23.5°) and raise both front and tail height (try with 4 mm). This gives quicker steering and a higher center of gravity."

Note: The ride height should be set to make the bike turn quickly, but not fall into a corner or require rider input to hold a line.
yes , running forks flush with triple clamp, and sag is 31mm rear and 33mm front (was 8mm and 26MM) ( had to back off rear spring to only about 2 threads showing, front has preload nearly right off to get these figures , as I am around 78-80 kg ). When I bought bike it was stock settings , it would buck me around on bumps , took extreme effort to negotiate roundabouts and hellishly unstable around tight urban streets. Worst handling bike I have ridden in 50 years of riding. Have ridden 3 so called widowmakers Kawasaki Mach 3 (3yrs+),2 Mach 4s (2years each+) and they were more confident to ride. Setting sag reduced the bucking over bumps , Was thinking of raising forks in triple clamp (lower front end ) but saw there was little left to do this . I read a post saying several 1098 ana 848 riders had dropped forks ( raised front end ) so gave it a go. Vast improvement roundabouts no problem and urbuan cornering is great, will never go back. Adjustment has raised ride height, increased wheelbase and increased trail. bike feels more nimble and nice and responsive now.
 

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i have an 848 EVO it was fine for riding a legal speeds, but when riding spiritedly or doing track days i could not live with its geometry, regardless of fork position.
So i have done triple clamps, ride height adjuster, flat rate link, Ohlins etc etc and its amazing, But its allot of money to make a bike do what i thought it would do in standard trim.
FYI i don't change for height much, i generally change the rear height when i need a different balance.
As the bike doesn't have the power so i don't need to worry about excess wheelies, i keep if fairly high to get better weigh transfer.
So i have the forks almost level with the clanps and adjust the rear to get the balanced where i want it.
 

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i have an 848 EVO it was fine for riding a legal speeds, but when riding spiritedly or doing track days i could not live with its geometry, regardless of fork position.
So i have done triple clamps, ride height adjuster, flat rate link, Ohlins etc etc and its amazing, But its allot of money to make a bike do what i thought it would do in standard trim.
FYI i don't change for height much, i generally change the rear height when i need a different balance.
As the bike doesn't have the power so i don't need to worry about excess wheelies, i keep if fairly high to get better weigh transfer.
So i have the forks almost level with the clanps and adjust the rear to get the balanced where i want it.
I'm going from aftermarket triple clamps (SpeedyMoto) to OEM because the lowers were damaged in a low side. I understand how changing the geometry or suspension settings would impact how the bike rides but how does changing the triple clamps improve the bikes handling? It would appear whether OEM or aftermarket triples they perform the same function in the same way. What am I missing?
 

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I'm going from aftermarket triple clamps (SpeedyMoto) to OEM because the lowers were damaged in a low side. I understand how changing the geometry or suspension settings would impact how the bike rides but how does changing the triple clamps improve the bikes handling? It would appear whether OEM or aftermarket triples they perform the same function in the same way. What am I missing?
Just found this on Motowheels website. Not sure that I really understand all the benefits described below specifically bar sweep.

Besides the added strength, our distinctive gull-wing design offers multiple advantages over the stock unit and the other triple clamps available in the market:

Offers up to 20mm (~3/4") of added height to the stock clip-ons, providing better ergonomics and control.
Further enhances ergonomics by offering a 15 degree range of bar sweep from the stock clip-ons.
Strengthens the front end by spreading the top clamping points of the forks further away from the lower clamps, reducing fork flex.
Fits all 1198/1098/848 models with Showa or Ohlins forks. We offer two anodized finishes: Silver and Black.
 

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Just found this on Motowheels website. Not sure that I really understand all the benefits described below specifically bar sweep.

Besides the added strength, our distinctive gull-wing design offers multiple advantages over the stock unit and the other triple clamps available in the market:

Offers up to 20mm (~3/4") of added height to the stock clip-ons, providing better ergonomics and control.
Further enhances ergonomics by offering a 15 degree range of bar sweep from the stock clip-ons.
Strengthens the front end by spreading the top clamping points of the forks further away from the lower clamps, reducing fork flex.
Fits all 1198/1098/848 models with Showa or Ohlins forks. We offer two anodized finishes: Silver and Black.
You need to call Kyle racing in CA. You need 30 degree. Also it changes the rake and the effective wheelbase
 

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Just found this on Motowheels website. Not sure that I really understand all the benefits described below specifically bar sweep.
The SpeedyMoto product provides the same geometry and handling as the stock unit. It does raise the handlebars for comfort and consequently allows somewhat larger side-to-side steering angles (sweep).
 

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I think you mean a yoke with a 30 mm offset (often paired with a longer swingarm).
No I mean a 30 degree offset triple. I have never used a longer swingarm. I used others and found them not to be as effective as the 30. Above you had mentioned the raising the front by pushing the forks down. Whenever you raise the CG it makes it effectively top heavy which makes the bike and I hate the word flickable. But never have I raised the front and left the rear alone. I have raised them relative to each other.
 
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