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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys new to the forums was hoping I could get some insight about what's happening with beautiful bike!

I have a number of bikes and I baby this thing so this is totally out of the blue. Heres the details....

-2013 848 EVO Corse SE 4100 MI
-No Performance Mods aside from a TOCE Slip on and CRG levers (had the mods for 2k MI zero issues.
-Started the bike this morning sounded fine, took a short trip to NAPA ~2 MI stopped at the traffic light to turn into Napa biked died zero warning lights no other indication of an issue. started it up np although idled a little funny normally its about 1350-1400 was idling about 1600. Turned the bike off at NAPA came back out check oil really quick looked good so I started it up and headed home. pulled like a slug in 1st gear felt like chain was loose (high rpms, no power) valves noisy as hell. second same way, engine temps started sky rocketing. Im paranoid as hell at this point. Made it hope put it up on stands spun wheels and noticed 4 flat spots on the rear tire all new from this trip. Any ideas? the only other thing worth mentioning is two instances where the dqs threw me into neutral and hit the rev limiter two weeks prior. any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Court Jester
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If it wasn't for the high temp (you didn't say how high) I would say check the TPS first see it it's out (lots of threads on TPS). That is an easy one to check. You said no mods but you have a slipons is the flapper valve modded?
Could be plugs.. could be lots of things I would start with the TPS. and search this forum with your symptoms (power loss, sluggish etc.)

The high temp may be a red hearing if the bike is not moving on a mild/hot day it will easily get to 217 F sitting and that is normal.

The noisy valves hmm is it something you are hearing into? Post of a video of the sound, you could have a spun bearing... (drop the oil if you see copper flakes you will know, in particular the mesh screen).

Don't ride the bike until you have confirmed there is nothing in the oil.

Good luck report back....
I'm a back yarder on that but have 2 848s so I've had similar issues but there are more knowledge folks that might pipe in once you come back with more info....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
TChase -Thanks for taking the time to reply My buddy and I basically concluded the same thing you said to check regarding the TPS, Plugs and coils.

-I stripped the bike down pulled the plugs and inspected the coils. Visual inspection of the coils indicates they are "like new" even though I know they still might have an issue

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170704
170705
170706


-regardless if the plugs were actually causing the issue they definitely needed to be changed, the top ones are plugs I pulled from my Gsxr the same day for comparison.

-I should have been more specific about the heat issue, its not the temp I was concerned with but the rate at which it got that high (215/216 in the amount of time it usually takes to reach 180ish)

-You could be right about the valves this bike is my baby as is a vehicle I own and sometimes I hear things that I want to hear because Im worried there is an issue lol. I order some new plugs NGK CR10EIX as recommended by others on the forum and installed those yesterday, cleaned re-oiled the air-filter. Ill change the oil today and report back. The oil drain plug design is stupid as I almost stripped it last time trying to remove it because the previous owner had it torqued down way to tight.

Edit: Flapper valves are untouched and I'll check the TPS if I don't find any contamination in the oil.
 

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Court Jester
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TChase -Thanks for taking the time to reply My buddy and I basically concluded the same thing you said to check regarding the TPS, Plugs and coils.

-I stripped the bike down pulled the plugs and inspected the coils. Visual inspection of the coils indicates they are "like new" even though I know they still might have an issue

- View attachment 170704 View attachment 170705 View attachment 170706

-regardless if the plugs were actually causing the issue they definitely needed to be changed, the top ones are plugs I pulled from my Gsxr the same day for comparison.

-I should have been more specific about the heat issue, its not the temp I was concerned with but the rate at which it got that high (215/216 in the amount of time it usually takes to reach 180ish)

-You could be right about the valves this bike is my baby as is a vehicle I own and sometimes I hear things that I want to hear because Im worried there is an issue lol. I order some new plugs NGK CR10EIX as recommended by others on the forum and installed those yesterday, cleaned re-oiled the air-filter. Ill change the oil today and report back. The oil drain plug design is stupid as I almost stripped it last time trying to remove it because the previous owner had it torqued down way to tight.

Edit: Flapper valves are untouched and I'll check the TPS if I don't find any contamination in the oil.
Dropping the oil should give you confidence nothing is wrong with the internals. As for the heat you'd be surprised how much ambient temperature and movement or lack of will effect how fast the temp rises or drops. In the morning when it's high 40's low 50's I sometimes won't even hit 150. But on an 80 degree day it's at temp in a blink when it's sitting.

Plugs are probably it you might of been running off of one cylinder explaining the noise you were hearing (some times I ask myself does that sound right).

Sounds like you know how to check the TPS, it's is technically not a serviceable part via Ducati but there are aftermarkets should you need to. And just to make sure you check it with software and while your are there reset it because it won't hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
nothing in the oil (metal shavings etc) I was going to measure the TPS the old fashioned way with a Voltmeter. I went ahead and ordered a 16 Pin OBD to 3 pin adapter so I can run jpdiag or Tuneecu but that won arrive until Monday. I wanted to avoid having to strip the sensor wires on the TPS to get alligator clips on it but don't see a way to avoid that. Any suggestions?

Its also worth mentioning This frayed connector and exposed boot next to the oil filter
170707
 

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Court Jester
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nothing in the oil (metal shavings etc) I was going to measure the TPS the old fashioned way with a Voltmeter. I went ahead and ordered a 16 Pin OBD to 3 pin adapter so I can run jpdiag or Tuneecu but that won arrive until Monday. I wanted to avoid having to strip the sensor wires on the TPS to get alligator clips on it but don't see a way to avoid that. Any suggestions?

Its also worth mentioning This frayed connector and exposed boot next to the oil filter
I’m not sure how the voltage is checked I don’t trust myself. But that only tells you it’s working I think?

Sometimes it can be out of spec but still working it just needs a reset. I think the range is 26-28 in the software.

Have you tried starting since you replace plugs and replenished the oil?

The software is a good investment you can reset your service light and read codes.
 

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Court Jester
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And a bad ground can have similar symptoms...
 

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BTW that looks to be the O2 sensor I think that is a pretty norm fray point might not be an issue if you can get a closer look. Just the sheathing, you can put some wrap on it to reinforce it.
 

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Important: NGK CR10EIX (or any other) iridium plugs should be installed straight out of the box. DO NOT re-gap them to the conventional spark plug gap spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Shazaam thanks for the heads up, I def didn't recap these guys. Tchase again thanks for sharing your knowledge, I went ahead and ordered the hardware for tuneecu. I agree with you im not confident getting a read off this TPS with alligator clips. Anyways buttoned everything up and let er rip sounds pretty smooth. let me know what you think?

 

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Court Jester
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She sounds right to me!
I’ve managed to avoid the fouled plug problem folks have reported. Because every winter I tear them both down and while I’m there I do the plugs I know it’s probably not needed but they are not too expensive.

yep you’ll be able to remove that service message and I guarantee you the way these bikes vibrate stuff finds a way to loosen up.

A few weeks ago I was getting an engine light randomly and when it was lit the bike would only turn over, it would not start. It was storing a code that lead me right to the lose connection. Saved me tons of problem shooting.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Whelp I thought everything was good to go as well. Took her for a short test ride same symptoms, it really feels like its revving out just to hit 35 in first gear. The odd thing is the rev lights will pop on when the TACH its only hitting 6400-7000.....Facepalm
 

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Court Jester
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Whelp I thought everything was good to go as well. Took her for a short test ride same symptoms, it really feels like its revving out just to hit 35 in first gear. The odd thing is the rev lights will pop on when the TACH its only hitting 6400-7000.....Facepalm
Ok like I said I’m really an under study in this forum so I’m reluctant to lead you down a path... and cost you unnecessary $$. Many times I thought I had it then test road and then it was back. And sometimes it was fine on surface streets but at track it came back (flapper valve was opening and closing)

That said there are a lot of things that have similar symptoms. The code read out would help if you were getting a light.. and you can definitely reset the TPS and if it doesn’t stay in range that should be the problem.

You can check lots of things without spending money. Have you done a advance search on the forum and made a list? I think I even remember one where it was the sprocket and or chain worn! The guy was not a novice either he just missed it. Then there are things I don’t know how to check like the sensor in the nose. But it could very well be a ground.... side stand switch (you can by pass it to test).

Try to narrow what it’s doing when, is the bike running fine when stationary, moving, both, hot cold etc..

The weird thing is you said it sounded wrong, did that come back as well?

Gather up that info and dig into the search, that will get you to where you need to be faster and less money. The reader is a good investment, oil drop piece of mind. Plugs a service item. Don’t want you throwing cash at it :(
 
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The regulator can be another usual suspect as well sometimes. Even the battery.
 

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The regulator can be another usual suspect as well sometimes. Even the battery.
And I’m pretty sure there are threads on how to test or bypass it (regulator).
 

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what about the 4 flat spots on the rear tire? I don't see how that happens unless you jump on the rear break or it has an issue and is dragging. Seems like you would have felt the wheel lock up
 

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Discussion Starter #17
What software/hardware cables are you guys using. I bought the fiat cable on amazon and paired it with the kcan-d I use with my Bmw which im 90 percent sure has the correct protocol but can't get it to connect to my laptop running Jpdiag nor the 10 dollar android tuneecu program...
 

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Court Jester
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Hey sorry I meant to follow up this weekend.
Attaching pics of my setup.
I also have the usb for laptop to use Jpdiag. But I didn’t post pics because I really don’t use it anymore it’s just too much hassle to drag out a laptop and it was a bitch getting one that would communicate ( the software isn’t supported very well ). So my solution was a $40 kids tablet (android) off eBay and a cheap OBD Bluetooth using tuneecu. I have an iPhone so had to get something with android is, gets me in easy no fuss...
 

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