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The beauty of FI is its ability to diagnose itself. There are 6 ways to find out:
1. Wire out of connector.
2. Connector not connected.
3. Sensor short.
4. Sensor out of spec.
5. Wire open in harness.
6. Wire open in sensor.

None met those variables when the phantom codes were cleared. Some causes could be:
Loose battery cables.
Air leak past the sensors, or the spigot holding the throttle body on the engine.
Air assist [leaks] for idle, meaning, no longer an idle cable used to set the idle.
Tight valve.
Compression is?

First code set is?
 

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Glad to help. Let's look at the ECU:
It self codes if it turns into a brick.
It can compute and can light a code up.
It fires and continues to fire up the bike.
It can clear phantom codes.
It is going to be an expensive crapshoot.
 

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If... I'm saying if it has a cam sensor, it could call out a tooth, but it would spit a code I'm assuming. But no cam sensor, I would think it would bend a valve? That would say a single belt would tag the one cylinder, but the other would chug it along if you will. Being a bent valve reads 0 compression, so it would be like starting the bike without the one plug in it.

As the engine ran okay once running above idle I opened the airbox and adjusted the idle speed screw
Let me get this straight. The new belt change, was this running with zero problems?
Let me get this extra straight. Are you telling me that to get to the idle screw(?), you have to remove the airbox cover to get to it? The bean counters said to tell the engineers to find a way to eliminate a simple cable this way?

Or are we moving a screw that is preset for idle and there is no access for an idle screw being it's idle is not vacuum and electronically fixed? Were you sort of messing with those screws? Am not familiar with the generation changes.
 
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