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Would someone please provide a how to for the non-mechanically inclined? I've read that this is a relatively straightforward procedure. I'm leaning towards the Paulimoto plate + spyder spring retainer. Gracias.
 

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Start by removing the clutch cover. You'll note some of the bolts are of different lengths. Be sure to put them back in the order / location they were removed. If you do mix them up, don't worry, as you'll notice if a bolt is too short or too long when getting them back on. It's not rocket science.

Once you have the cover off, you're going to be looking at a set of six springs with a retainer and bolt on each. Remove all six, and for the sake of keeping things neat, be sure to keep each retainer and bolt with the spring it came with. Once again if they get mixed up, don't worry about. It's no biggie.

Now before you pull the OEM clutch pressure plate, you're going to notice an arrow / pointer on it. Make a note of that position. This is important as the new clutch pressure plate will also have some sort of marking (dot / etch) or arrow that must be positioned in the same way / location.

Once you've made a note of the marking position, go ahead and simply pull the pressure plate off. It should slip off, but in the event it feels tight, gently pry it out. If the clutch rod comes out with it, don;t freak out. There's a bearing on the pressure plate that sometims holds it. You'll have to either pull or tap the rod off the pressure plate.

Once you have it off, be sure the rod is back in its place (inside the engine and not out on the floor, believe it or not I have seen that done), and now it's time to install the new pressure plate back in the same manor it was pulled off. Remember to find the marking and align it in the same manor as that the OEM was in.

FYI: Paulimoto billet pressure plates have two little etch marks as the "arrow marking" on one of the raised section of the spring holes. Subtle, clean and you can't miss it.

When you get to tightening the spring bolts back up, the best way to do so is to get the springs to bottom out and just when the bolt won't go anymore, give it a gently snug. Don't put your elbow into it! Just enough pressure your wrist will give is more than enough. I'm certain Ducati's manual has the exact torque specs to these things, but in the past 8 years that I owned and workd on Duc's, I've never had to look it up.

You would use the same procedure with a "spyder ring" as well, and with those, you don't have to line them up or anything like that. Pop it on, and tighten it up.

Working of Ducati dry clutches is easy. If at any point you run into a problem or just need to ask a question, drop me a line and I'll give you my direct number. I'll walk you through it. .. ..
 
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