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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys just picked up this baby,
turned over just fine when i got it, rode it for 30 minutes and then didnt turn over.

seems the starter chokes or maybe battery may be low... voltage shows 11.2-12v

from experience with my old 1098 these bikes want high voltage... before i buy a new battery see this video and what do you think?

thanks for any help
 

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Voltage and cranking capacity, while linked, are also separate. You can have a battery that shows 12.6v but has no cranking capacity.

How old is the battery??
 

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Voltage and cranking capacity, while linked, are also separate. You can have a battery that shows 12.6v but has no cranking capacity.

How old is the battery??
+1. Your measuring residual voltage, means diddly squat. Get your local battery guy to load test it and I'll bet it's got a dead cell. Buy a trickle charger, you'll double the life of your next battery.
 

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might be battery or voltage regulator

I am thinking your battery is dead, get it charged with battery tender and try it, if it starts than your voltage regulator is not charging it most likely, I replaced my 08 848's VR and it fixed the problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thought so... the previous owner said battery is fairly new and he had it always on a trickel charger.. and rarely rode it.. so im guessing it has a dead cell because even after 30 minutes riding, it did not start..

hope the charging system on the bike works but i will get a new battery, i had the same problem on my old 1098 but never sounded like this...

thanks guys i will try.
 

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+1
I just replaced both for my 1198. It did not start after being stuck in traffic, and voltage shown at 11-12v. It seems to be fine now after two long rides.

might be battery or voltage regulator

I am thinking your battery is dead, get it charged with battery tender and try it, if it starts than your voltage regulator is not charging it most likely, I replaced my 08 848's VR and it fixed the problem
 

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Try not to run it too much even if you get it started with a charger. A bad battery will overwork your alternator/voltage regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
so i got a new battery, charged problem still there... i did notice something very weird, while trying to crank the battery leads get super hot super fast... i thoguht maybe the battery was not powerfull enough... i reinstallled the old battery and does the same thing.. the battery leads get super hot that they melt the plastic of the battery they are touching... any ideas? bike only cranks but no start. same as video
 

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I just wrote this in another thread..

one thing people forget or dont know is the COLD CRANKING AMPS. Just because the battery has 12 volts doesnt mean the efficiency of the battteries Cold Cranking Amps is the same....what you find is that the 12volts dissipates much faster. So what happens is either you get a half ass power to starter which isnt enough cranking power to start the engine and just rotates it at a reduced speed, then if your bike doest turn over in 2 tries, the batteries dead again.

mine is on its way out....but i dont want to order until winter. I leave it on the charger all day/night and then its ready to ride. if it sits for more than a day by itself, the battery is voltage drops and wont start the bike.

another tip..half ass power to starter can cause a backfire. This puts excessive force in the opposite direction to the idle gear holder and other components...ive had a GSXR blow a idle gear from a backfire during startup.

when you get the tender, most guys leave it on the whole winter and after rides to ensure proper voltage...keeps the battery healthy too
 

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so i got a new battery, charged problem still there... i did notice something very weird, while trying to crank the battery leads get super hot super fast... i thoguht maybe the battery was not powerfull enough... i reinstallled the old battery and does the same thing.. the battery leads get super hot that they melt the plastic of the battery they are touching... any ideas? bike only cranks but no start. same as video
Hot cables usually indicate a bad connection. The heat is worst right at the weak connection.

Before you spend any more money, it might be a good idea to undo your cables from battery to ground, battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter and give them a good cleaning up with sandpaper, or a stiff metal brush and do the same to the posts they connect to.

Just one corroded or cracked connection in that loop can make your battery, starter and charging system seem weak.

Could even be a broken down cable, but not likely.
 

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Cables get hot for 2 reasons, high resistance or too much current.

Take your battery to autozone or wherever and have it load tested. When the starter is hot it does have higher resistance - when the battery is bad, the voltage drops down when you put power to the starter. Since the starter needs the same power to start the engine, the lower the voltage the higher the current needs to be to generate the same power to the starter ( Power = Volts x Current) As the voltage goes down, the current skyrockets to the starter and starts to over heat the cables - I have seen cables melt out of the terminals at the battery.

what i cant tell in your video is what the noise is....is it the starter? is it the idler gear? Either it doesnt have enough power to the starter to turn the engine so its stripping the starter teeth(as i would assume everything either TURNS or it doesnt and yours sounds like something is moving slightly.) OR the starter is turning and the gear it meshes with is binding. have you tried to put your bike in 6th gear and roll it to ensure the engines not locked up?

so IMO, do the 1st, try to start, then next step..based on easiest to check.
1.) Take your battery to autozone and see if they can load test both old and new battery.
1.) Clean the terminals and the other ends of the wire...check for corrosion.
2.) If you have means to another ground wire from a car/truck, piggyback it to the frame and negative battery terminal.
3.) See if you can find some amp draw that someone has posted and test against yours to ensure something is not happening when you hit the starter. If its very high, the start is malfunctioning.
4.) remove the starter and bench test...ensure it is rotating properly.
3.) remove the case and see whats going on.
 

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many times , in my experience when a starter goes the battery isn't too far behind. since you replaced the battery and the sound is still there, get the starter bench tested. good luck .
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
all ideas i heard are great.. i will get everything tested... but today i did reinstall the old battery with carefully installing the cables really tight so they dont prduce as much heat.. but i did notice lots of oxydation on the cables... i will scrub them but after doing some research it does seem that the 1098 wires simply go bad with time... i have had similar hard starting problems on my previous 1098...

as far as clicking goes.. gears are good, starter shows no sign of problems the sound you hear in video is the engine cycling 2 times as it should, just barely makes it past the first cycle. while on tender all night gives about 2-3 cycles.. still no start..

something is making me lean towards the motolectric upgrade wire kit... anyone has experienc using them? hoping its not too hard of an install.. anywayz keep posting ideas. thanks
 

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something is making me lean towards the motolectric upgrade wire kit... anyone has experienc using them? hoping its not too hard of an install.. anywayz keep posting ideas. thanks
Yep, got one, but I didn't do the install. Works great. I've got a very small Shorai battery, starts every time.
 
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