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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have to replace the battery on my Desmosedici RR; can anyone help me by telling me in general terms what parts have to come off in order to change this battery?
I appreciate any help i can get.

oh, and by the way my dd16rr is for sale now. Answer to this thread if interested.
thanks
 

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The battery box mount is situated on the vertical cylinder head valve cover, in front of the rear of the airbox. These pictures should help.
If i recall it should be no more than the side fairings ( and pan if you do both sides ) and the tank. Pretty sure the seat unit can stay on, and so it should, it's a bitch to get off :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Based upon your pic above, it looks like the subframe has to come off too...that is what i was afraid off....do you confirm? otherweise, if you dont take the subframe off, how do you take the tank off?
 

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I'm pretty sure the carbon subframe ( which i referred to as the seat unit ) can stay on. It's been a few weeks since I had this apart and i've not put it back together yet. I'm almost certain that i took that off after the tank but let me trawl through the pics i took to check. Tank is 3 bolts i think 2 front, one rear and centre, which you see when you take your seat pad off. back in a sec with more pics if I have them


ok not got anything that is greatly more helpful but I can assure you at this point I had removed the tank bolts ready to disconnect it, I was waiting for a hand to lift the tank whilst I got the connections off. Tank definitely comes off without disturbing the sub-frame, just remove the seat pad. This is a track bike so i just pulled a neoprene pad off that was glued on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey Buddy: thanks for your efforts in helping me: you are about to save me a 16 hours round trip to the mechanic that can work on this bike..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
my problem is that even after i take the three bolts out (the ones that hold the tank) the tank does not lift up enough for me to stick my hands under it and disconnect the fuel lines; that is why i am thinking that the subframe has to come off for the tank to move more freely
 

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Hey Buddy: thanks for your efforts in helping me: you are about to save me a 16 hours round trip to the mechanic that can work on this bike..
Hey np, hope this helps. You don't need to strip anywhere near as I have been doing and it's pretty simple. Just be meticulous and not lose your fairing dzus, those buggers pop out all over the place ;)

And I'm no mechanic, so if it's a battery replacement I'd have no concerns about doing it myself.
 

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my problem is that even after i take the three bolts out (the ones that hold the tank) the tank does not lift up enough for me to stick my hands under it and disconnect the fuel lines; that is why i am thinking that the subframe has to come off for the tank to move more freely

give it a tug, don't be shy. If it's never been off it will be stubborn. Fuel lines and the rubber (breathers?) will resist. There is nothing above the tank that should hold it once the bolts are out. I didn't have an ignition to worry about but I doubt that should interfere, but check the key housing is not over a lip of any kind.

There are far more knowledgeable people than me here in regards to this but as I said, If i can get it off without resorting to the mallet, it's not a big job . I would suggest another pair of hands though, just to raise the tank for you.

If you still get stuck try removing the forward bolts on the sub-frame and see if that gives you some freedom. As I said it was weeks back and i've not looked at it much since. And it's 3am now :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
allright , I will give it a try to pull it up more than i did so far. Hey...thanks Man!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
there must be some lines interfering with the part of the tank that is close to thee subframe....i have to make sure to move eventual lines from there....it feels that wghen i pray the tank upwords from the front it makes a squeeky noise as if it was rubbing against some rubber lines.....
 

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there must be some lines interfering with the part of the tank that is close to thee subframe....i have to make sure to move eventual lines from there....it feels that wghen i pray the tank upwords from the front it makes a squeeky noise as if it was rubbing against some rubber lines.....

That's why i suggest you get someone else to lift so you can get your eyes down under it.
I'm pretty sure all that's stopping it will be the breather pipe to the rear. It's a y shaped pipe running down to a canister below. It's stretchy, you can see it in my first photo and it just pulls off the two breather pipes on the tank. It might well be trapped and not giving you enough leeway but work from there. There is nothing other than that the fuel lines and oh yeah, the sensor wire ;) but if you don't feel confident getting heavy handed with it then I'll come back to you in the morning ( uk here ) and take some more pictures of all the stuff in the garage related to it and perhaps jog my memory.
I'm a bit fuzzy at the moment, had surgery 2 days ago and between the pain pills and the medicinal beer I'm not going to be much more help now ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok buddy, take it easy..i will take a break for the night myself....will keep you posted tomorrow.
good night and thanks again!
 

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No need to pull subrame bolts.

To remove the tank, first remove the side panels and the seat[*]. Remove three bolts that secure the tank. Pull the front of the tank up a few inches (~75cm) and then pull the rear of the tank up. Yes, have someone available to assist when this is the first time you're doing this. It might be nice to snap a photo of how the fuel lines, vent lines and electric lines were routed before removing them.

It takes two hands to break the electrical connection to the pump. It probably will take two hands to break the connections for the vent hoses. Put a piece of tape around the fuel line toward the rear of the tank to differentiate for proper reassembly.

Fuel WILL be spilled, but not alot. It is a good idea to have a rag in the void previously occupied by the bottom of the tank before unlatching the fuel lines. To remove the fuel lines, find the ribbed portions of the connectors, up close to the tank. These are opposite each other. Squeeze the ribbed portions toward each other. This will flex the connector and allow the "latches" to unhook.

When you go to put it all back together, the fuel lines should just snap into place. But before replacing them, coat the o-rings with a bit of petroleum jelly. Don't go overboard but don't worry about using too much. It is quite likely that the vent lines on the bike will have pulled UP in their restraints and will need to be pulled DOWN as the tank is re-fit. Fit the rear portion of the tank first. Don't worry that it doesn't seat completely. Then fit the front. Some rubber lubricant makes the job easier where the fancy top-hat rubber bits at the front contact the frame. Be sure both of them are properly seated before installing any bolts. Once the front bolts are started, then push down on the back to seat the tank and fit the rear bolt. If it won't seat, remove the front bolts, lift the front then the rear and see what is wrong. Do not over-torque.

Re-install the seat and side panels.


[*] To remove the seat, remove the three socket head metal screws. Remove the two black plastic phillips head screws. Pull the black plastic anchors out of the subframe by pulling on the seat. On reassembly DO NOT OVER-TORQUE THE SCREWS. The subframe is carbon, not metal.
 

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While you're in there fit a Lithium unit. Cheap and easy way to save many kilos, stays charged for months and you can feel the difference in the bike (weight loss is high up)...
 
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