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Recently had major starting issues with my 1098s. Read alot of posts on here about the problem. My bike took 10 - 20 cranks to kick over and eventually when it did start wouldn't idle at all. I was of the understanding that the battery is used to crank the starter and once running it wasn't necessary for engine function. It would cut out at stop lights if i didn't feather the throttle. After a week on a new battery tender all problems vanished, it kicked over first time and ran like a beauty. Thanks again
 

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Recently had major starting issues with my 1098s. Read alot of posts on here about the problem. My bike took 10 - 20 cranks to kick over and eventually when it did start wouldn't idle at all. I was of the understanding that the battery is used to crank the starter and once running it wasn't necessary for engine function. It would cut out at stop lights if i didn't feather the throttle. After a week on a new battery tender all problems vanished, it kicked over first time and ran like a beauty. Thanks again
They also make a upgraded wiring kit for the starting circuit that works very well as well for the low voltage issue. When the motor cranks slow it also beats up the roller clutch on the starter drive. Just so you know.
 

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Recently had major starting issues with my 1098s. Read alot of posts on here about the problem. My bike took 10 - 20 cranks to kick over and eventually when it did start wouldn't idle at all. I was of the understanding that the battery is used to crank the starter and once running it wasn't necessary for engine function. It would cut out at stop lights if i didn't feather the throttle. After a week on a new battery tender all problems vanished, it kicked over first time and ran like a beauty. Thanks again
I'm glad you have it sorted.
But you need to keep in mind a few things -
If everything is running right on the money it should start in about 1 second. Any excess time past 1 second just put excess wear on the starter motor, the sprag clutch, the intermediate gear, and the battery.

2 seconds is twice the wear, 4 seconds is 4 times etc.

Dying at stops usually means that the regulator is having a low output and that the battery is not able to hold a full charge. When you take it right off the battery tender the battery is actually slightly overcharged (has a higher voltage, up past 13V) and that can be why it starts easily. To test for this, take the charger off the bike and run the headlight for 30 seconds or alternatively wait 6 hours. Then start the bike and while doing that video the startup so you can go back and review it.
Often, the quick startup is really 2-3-4 seconds.
As the other poster mentioned, we make a starting circuit upgrade kit that will have your bike starting in 1 second.

Did your bike die when cold too? or just when it was hot?

Hope the above helps and if you have questions, I am following this thread now.

Thanks,

M./
 
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