Before you start the installation, check the stock levers to get a feel for the initial amount of free play — this is the initial 5% part of the lever pull where you feel very little resistance to movement.
It's VERY important that you make sure that after installation that you still have enough free play in the levers. There have been reports where some Pazzo levers have a fit problem that prevents lever free play. No free play results in sudden brake lock-up and also clutch slippage.
OMG! not a lever swap! I'd rather calculate crank shims or degree a cam shaft than have to subject myself to such a complicated ordeal!
Just messing with ya-
Be sure to loosen the 10mm lock nut under the lever at the pivot before trying to unscrew the pivot. Be careful not to damage the microswitches during this process.
The boots can be removed from the master cylinders and it is easier to put the pins through the boot when they are removed. If you tear one, you can order them as an individual part from the KTM catalogue.
Also use blue or green Loctite on the operating pin threads and set the tiny set screw gently. if you torque it down you tear up the threads and the operating pin will gall the threads on the pivot if you ever adjust it or swap levers out.
It is also a good idea to use a graphite based lubricant on the main lever pivot pin during reinstall to avoid wearing it out- especially on the clutch side.
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