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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Valve shims done, at last ..... I've just installed the cam brackets and made sure seals are dry so not to pop out.
Do they sit flush with the bracket housing or pushed in more? ... I've pushed them in as im sure they were like that when i took it apart
:blind:
 

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Yes they sit slightly 'in' from flush - like the good book says, flush with the inner edge of the slight bevel on the edge of the castings.

The trick is to ensure they don't 'kick' crooked as you tighten it all down. Ensure you have put sealant to every surface that is still exposed once the top cover is installed.

And ignore the manual's instruction to "replace the oil seals every time.." unless they were leaking. (Of course you need to remove the pulleys to do this). My originals still seal after all those miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cheers matey, i put a dab of sealant on the pulley bracket corners as the manual states as well, there was sealant all around for the valve cover when i took it off so will do the same, was a long job but quite enjoyed tbh ..... getting the exact clearances was not easy, could do with smaller increment shims i think ... new coolant and put it all back togther now :D
 

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Yes unfortunately the "smaller increments" are achieved with some careful hand-working of the shims and collars.

Sometimes this permits you to get them more even than they come. I measure them all around with a micrometer (more accurate then a Vernier) and mark the high spot with a felt pen, then bias the grinding accordingly.

Small amounts just on a (flat) oilstone, larger amounts on the side of the bench grinder wheel, and finished on the oilstone.

It's not rocket science, but it rewards careful work. I learnt these skills on the larger 8mm shims and collars of the 2-valves, then scaled down for the 4-valves.

The reward for doing this job fastidiously is being able to leave it longer between checks. I can assure you that after doing this job for 40 years it becomes a little tedious..

:eek:
 
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