Clock Memory

This is a symptom of a lack of battery power, or too much resistance in the high-amperage starting circuit.

Starting is robbing the available power to other functions. The dash shuts down in response to a lack of sufficient power.

Charge your battery up fully, check the large terminals on the top of your solenoid (near the battery) and the engine earth lead, and try again.

Starting mine after it has sat for a couple of weeks sometimes does the same thing.

You may need a better battery, or a trickle-charging connection if your bike gets to sit for more than a week between uses. Or both.

Perhaps get your battery load-tested by a battery specialist while you have it out. It is easy to remove - you will be having to reset your clock anyway.

Cheers Pat
Ride safe

PAT1098 got banned, this is bullshit!

One of the best contributors on the site gets banned. Why ??

Oh dear, time to look elsewhere I guess.

Install a different battery and your problem goes away. My bike sat for four months and started right up with a battery for a Honda.



This video will show you how to replace the battery in a Ducati 848, 1098, 1198.
Yuasa YT12BBS install a YTX12BS Honda Battery.
Using a YTX12BS will save you just over 20.00. It is larger and weighs a little more than the OEM battery. It also cranks the bike stronger.
This should not matter if you are just riding a Ducati.
If you are a WSBK pro racer then maybe you might need a lighter battery...
I am guessing that if you are watching this video, that you are not a racer, just an owner like me.

Do you have HID's installed? Mine did it with both on. When I just started the bike with low beam on it is fine.

Not to hijack but you fucking kidding they banned pat? What a joke way to drive people away from the site

svre46 said:

Do you have HID's installed? Mine did it with both on. When I just started the bike with low beam on it is fine.

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People like to point to the HID's but mine have never caused problem with the cluster.

Tchase said:

People like to point to the HID's but mine have never caused problem with the cluster.

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They can if he has a battery that's on its way out or lower than optimal voltage. The current spike to ignite HID's is quite high and can cause enough of a voltage drop to reset things if his battery is not in an optimal state. I would have the battery load tested and check/clean all your chassis and ECU grounds. Do the wiring upgrade while you're at it.

keitih89 said:

They can if he has a battery that's on its way out or lower than optimal voltage. The current spike to ignite HID's is quite high and can cause enough of a voltage drop to reset things if his battery is not in an optimal state. I would have the battery load tested and check/clean all your chassis and ECU grounds. Do the wiring upgrade while you're at it.

Click to expand...

I still have my stock 2012 battery so......

Mine did this with HID and Shorai battery, I wired in a time delay relay on the low beam side, with an 8-10 second delay and have never had an issue since.

fastrob691 said:

Mine did this with HID and Shorai battery, I wired in a time delay relay on the low beam side, with an 8-10 second delay and have never had an issue since.

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I'm not arguing that the HID's don't draw more I'm pointing out the Stock battery if proper does just fine... Not every battery even the same make/model is equal. It could be a charging issue. Pats post summed it up well.

Tchase said:

I'm not arguing that the HID's don't draw more I'm pointing out the Stock battery if proper does just fine... Not every battery even the same make/model is equal. It could be a charging issue. Pats post summed it up well.

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We're saying the same thing. If the battery is marginal, the higher current draw of the HID's when the ignite may drop the battery voltage enough to reset the ECU, where it would be ok with conventional bulbs.

My OEM battery from 2008 was fine with the HID's as well. However, my scottoiler eSystem would reset due to the split second current spike of the HID's.

Also, if his grounds(frame, ECU, HID's) are not sufficient, the HID current draw will again cause excessive current spikes that can cause issues.

The HID's themselves are not the issue, but they can add to an existing issue whether it be a weak battery, failing rectifier, or poor grounds.